North Face Team Claims Three First Ascents In Karakoram

According to the North Face Journal, a talented climbing team sponsored by The North Face claimed three first ascents, and a first ski descent, in the Karakoram mountain range this summer. Each of the peaks were above 5500 meters (18,044 ft) and were located in a remote region of Pakistan.

The team, which consisted of Hervè Barmasse, Daniele Bernasconi and Martin Peterlongo, traveled to the Karakoram with their sights set firmly on the incredibly difficult Ogre. After 48 days they were forced to abandon their attempt on that 7285 meter (23,900 ft) peak due to bad weather. Rather than just go home, the three men decided to turn their attention elsewhere.

The first of the climbs took place on a northern peak that the team elected to use as an acclimatization climb ahead of their attempt on the Ogre. After nine days on the mountain, they managed to summit on July 11, topping out at 6330 meters (20,767 ft). The second bagged peak was an unnamed 5966 meter (19,573 ft) mountain not far from the Ogre as well. That was also the same mountain that the team skied down. They wrapped up the expedition with one final climb up a 5850 meter (19,192 ft) peak once they knew their chances at the Ogre were over.

According to their trip report, the team spent 48 days on the expedition and experienced just 13 days of good weather. That gives you an indication of just how bad the conditions were this year in the Karakoram and makes all of the successful summits of K2 even that much  more impressive. We all knew it was a rough season in Pakistan, but at least some of the climbers were able to achieve their goals while there.