DRAWN: The Climbing Adventures of an Artist

In 2009, climber and artist Jeremy Collins found himself stuck in a cave under Fitz Roy in Patagonia, waiting for the weather to clear enough to give him a shot at the climbing to the summit. While there, he came up with the inspiration to travel in four directions from his home, and climb new routes that had never been done before. He was looking for a new challenge, something to inspire him. Over the next four years, that vision took him to the jungles of Venezuela, the border of China and Mongolia, into Northern Canada, and the Yosemite Valley.  As he went, he collected very personal stories from those journeys, and he filled five sketchbooks with art inspired by those adventures.

Now, Jeremy has published the art from those sketchbooks in a wonderful new tome that is available from Mountaineers Books. He is also about to close a Kickstarter campaign that has earned him enough funds to produce a film of this adventures as well. The campaign still has three days to go until it is done, and while the minimum goal has been met, extra funds will go to improving production.

The story is a very inspiring one, showing us how we can pursue our dreams and go after our goals. Life is an adventure, and this little book, and film, are a testament to how to pursue those adventures. The video below offers a glimpse of what Jeremy has in mind. Looks great!

Video: Kayaking a Lost World in Patagonia

We all know that Patagonia is one of the most remote and beautiful places on the planet, but even it still holds wonders to be revealed. That's what the kayakers in this video discovered when they made a descent of the amazing looking Pucón River there. The waterway is marked with impressive waterfalls, deep canyons, and wild whitewater. Everything you want to see in a good paddling movie.

Video: Discovering Patagonia

Patagonia is beyond a doubt, one of the most beautiful and wild places on the planet. I personally can't get enough of the place, and the video below is a good illustration of why. It was shot this past December, and gives us a great glimpse of what the place is really like. Truly amazing.

Discovering Patagonia from Tomas Likar on Vimeo.

Video: Trail Running In Patagonia

Ever wonder what it is like to go trail running in Patagonia? Than have a look at this video from ultra-runner Philippe Gatta that was shot while he was running 300 km (186 miles) in and around Torres del Paine and Ftiz Roy. What a spectacular place to go for a run!

Video: Attempt To Succeed In Patagonia

Here's a short climbing film that has a little of everything, including beautiful settings, a good story of adversity, and some fantastic shots of climbers doing their thing. It was filmed on the Argentine side of Patagonia in December of 2012 and January, 2013. It features climbers Tim De Dobbeleer and Sam Van Brempt, who struggled to top out on anything in the region, until finally climbing both Cerro Torre by the Ragni route and Fitz Roy's Franco Argentina. Excellent and inspiring stuff.

Patagonia: Attempt To Succeed from Sam Van Brempt on Vimeo.

Video: Exploring Argentina's Patagonia Region

There is little doubt that Patagonia is one of the most spectacularly beautiful places on the entire planet, and we have seen numerous images and videos attesting to that fact. You can add one more to this list with this wonderful short film that takes us on a tour of the Argentinian side of Patagonia. It introduces us to the people and places that make the region so special, while giving us plenty of eye candy to enjoy along the way.

The Short Season 'Argentina' from Arctos Collective on Vimeo.

Chad Kellogg Dies While Climbing In Patagonia

There was sad news out of Agentina this past weekend as the news broke that American climber Chad Kellogg has died while climbing in Patagonia. Kellogg was climbing Fitz Roy with and Jens Holsten. The two apparently successfully topped out and were beginning their descent when a rope dislodged a rock that struck Chad in the head. He reportedly died instantly.

The accident occurred late last Friday, but it took Holsten some time to descend safely and walk to the nearest village. The news has slowly filtered out since then and the climbing community is still reeling. Due to the remoteness of the accident, his body will not be recovered.

Kellogg was well known for his speed climbing on Rainier and Denali. Over the past couple of years, he even made a couple of attempt to break the speed record on Everest.  Chad enjoyed climbing remote peaks and opening new routes with a variety of close climbing partners. His legacy will include new routes in the Himalaya, the Andes, and China.

My condolences go out Chad's friends and family.

Book Review: Climbing Fitz Roy, 1968: Reflections on the Third Ascent

Are you still looking for a last minute Christmas gift for the climber or outdoor adventurer on your list? Than let me recommend a fantastic book that I reviewed over at the Wenger Blog today. It is entitled Climbing Fitz Roy, 1968: Reflections on the Third Ascent. This high quality, fantastically bound tome includes more than 90 photos from a historic climb in Patagonia that took place 45 years ago, along with some insightful and thoughtful essays about the men who undertook that expedition. Men who would later go on to have a profound impact on the environmental and outdoor adventure community.

The team consisted of five guys who called themselves the "Funhogs." Those men were skier Dick Dorworth, filmmaker Lito Tejada-Flores, and climbers Yvon Chouinard, Doug Tompkins and Chris Jones. If some of those names sound vaguely familiar, it isn't just because they are legendary climbers who put up the now classic California Route out Fitz Roy, perhaps the most famous mountain in all of Patagonia. Tompkins would also go on to found a little company called The North Face, while Chouinard would start Patagonia, whose logo is modeled after Fitz Roy. These same men would also help found an environmental movement amongst outdoor enthusiasts and the industry, which persists even to this day.

Back in '68, the men drove from Ventura, California all the way to Patagonia, a distance of 8000 miles. They were also forced to wait out the bad weather in an ice cave for 31 days, before they actually got a crack at the highly technical Fitz Roy, which is far more difficult than its 3359 meters (11, 020 ft) would typically imply. When they were done, they had completed an impressive new route but more importantly they came away from their adventure with a different outlook on the world.

The book shares their story through their own words, but it is the photos – once thought lost in a house fire – that really sell the story. The images are very impressive and do an excellent job of not only supporting the story but standing on their own to tell the tale as well.

Climbing historians will love this book, not just for the content, but for how high of a quality it is in general. It just feels great in your hands, although it doesn't hurt that the amazing images jump off the page. With the holidays quickly approaching, I can promise you that Climbing Fitz Roy is sure to delight the outdoor adventurer in your life. Truly a wonderful gift.

Video: Patagonia by Quechua

I think we'll end the week with this beautiful video. It is a promotional spot for the gear company Quechua, but like many commercials for outdoor focused companies it features some amazing scenery. In this case, the video was shot in Patagonia, which ranks amongst the most beautiful places on the planet.

[PATAGONIA] by Quechua from CAPSUS FILMS on Vimeo.

5000 Mile Project: Couple Running The Length Of South America

On July 28, David and Katharine Lowrie set out on a run like no other. The pair have hit the road to run the length of South America. Yes, you read that right. They are planning on running south to north across the entire continent and they're doing so to raise awareness and funds to protect the wildlife that lives in threatened areas there. Their expedition is aptly named the 5000 Mile Project, as that is the distance that they will cover before they are through. (That's roughly 8046 km for most of the world.)

The began their epic adventure last month by setting off from Punta Arenas, Chile, the southernmost settlement in South America. They'll now work their way north through Patagonia, crossing between Chile and Argentina as they go. Eventually they'll cross into Bolivia before continuing on to Brazil, where they'll face one of the biggest challenges to the expedition – a crossing of the Amazon Rainforest. If successful there, they'll emerge into Venezuela and finish the journey with a run to the Caribbean coast.

The Lowrie's hope to wrap up their journey approximately a year after they started. That seems rather ambitious considering the difficult miles that lie ahead. The couple aren't just out on the road running unencumbered. They're pulling specially designed carts behind them that carry all of their gear and supplies as well. David and Katharine are hoping to cover roughly the length of a marathon each day (26.2 miles/42.1 km), which is a challenge but highly feasible while on roads. But once they hit the Amazon, things will be completely different and much more difficult in general.


The husband and wife team have undertaken the 5000 Mile Project to raise funds for Asociacion Armonia, BirdLife International and Conservacion Patagonica. The hope is to collect enough money to help fund the purchase of threatened habitats in South America to protect the wildlife that lives there. As part of the project, they are also recording the various animals they see along their run including the many bird species that inhabit the continent.

Their efforts don't end there however. They've also launched the BigToe Classroom which contains lesson plans and projects for teachers to use with their students to get them engaged with conservation projects as well. There is even a way to contact David and Katharine and set up a video conference call with them directly from the road.

You can learn more about the 5000 Mile Project in an interview that the couple did with Explorers Web earlier in the week. You can also follow along with David and Katharine's blog or on Twitter and Facebook.

The Patagonian Expedition Race On Hiatus Until 2015

A few weeks back I posted news that the Patagonian Expedition Race was in serious jeopardy and that if a sponsor didn't step up soon, the 2014 edition of the race was likely to not happen. Race manager Stjepan Pavicic felt that the event was not getting the support from the local community that it needed to stay solvent, despite the fact that his race brought a great deal of attention and money into the economy there. Yesterday Stjepan took to the PER Facebook page to announce that the race is indeed cancelled for 2014, while also giving us hope that it will return in 2015. 

Stjepan's statement is quoted in full below. Here's what he had to say:

Dear racers, followers and friends of the PATAGONIAN EXPEDITION RACE,

A few weeks ago, we made a difficult decision that is very difficult for me to communicate, but I must. Finally though, after 10 years of consecutive editions, in February 2014 there will be no Patagonian Expedition Race. But this is not the end; this is just a brief pause. 

In this time, exploring the wildest side of Patagonia, nature has taught us many hundreds of life lessons and also taught us to keep moving, even through complicated geographical scenarios and very hostile weather conditions. But she also taught us to understand when it’s necessary to pause in the midst of the storm. Today it’s time for that pause. It’s time to rehydrate ouselves and to feed our spirit. To review our roadmap and adjust our course to make directly for Patagonian Expedition Race 2015! So, we’ll be back with more energy and new challenges. We’ll maintain the authentic format and stay true to the wild expedition race spirit of the Patagonian Expedition Race, The Last Wild Race.

I want to thank all those who have shared our passion and helped build the Patagonian Expedition Race: athletes, photographers, videographers, journalists, volunteers and professionals from various fields, companies and institutions. Together we have made a large multinational and multidisciplinary team with personalities from from over 30 countries. The wilderness has been our inspiration. 

Soon we will open registration for the 2015 edition. I invite you to dream that you will be part of the next Patagonia Patagonian Expedition Race, The Last Wild Race! 

Stjepan Pavicic

So there you have it, straight from the race manager's mouth. There will be no Patagonian Expedition Race for 2014 but they hope to come back stronger than ever in 2015. It will be said to see a void on the schedule for early next year, but at least their is optimism that this great race will continue on after a brief hiatus. It is one of the best races in the world and it is held in one of the best settings on the planet. Hopefully it will be back before we know it.

Thanks to my friend Bill Snyder for sharing this news with me.

Video: Rios Libres Episode 4 - The Movement

Today we have the fourth – and final – episode of the Rios Libres web series, which over the past few weeks has introduced us to the threats that the rivers in Chilean Patagonia currently face. Corrupt officials in that country sold the water rights to those rivers to multi-national companies based in Europe. Those companies now intend to build hydro-electric generating dams along those rivers, which will have a lasting, and possibly irreversible, impact on the environment.

In this episode we get a chance to see exactly what is at stake here. Patagonia is one of the most dramatic and breathtaking landscapes on the planet and its future is now in jeopardy. We are at the crossroads as to where this issue will go next, but we can all sign an online petition asking Chile's president to reconsider construction of the dams. If those projects move forward, we could lose one of the last truly great wildernesses in existence.


Episode 4- The Movement from Rios Libres on Vimeo.

Video: Rios Libres Episode 3 - The Alternatives

Episode three of the four part Rio Libres web series has been released, continuing the exploration of the issues that the wild rivers of Chilean Patagonia face now that multinational corporations are threatening to build dams throughout the region. In this episode we explore some alternatives to the hydroelectric plants that will irrevocably change the landscape in the south in order to power the mining operations in the north – a region where solar power is more viable than just about any other place on the planet.

This has been an excellent series so far, but it's painful to think about what they are potentially doing to Patagonia.


Episode 3- The Alternatives from Rios Libres on Vimeo.

Video: Rios Libres Episode 2 - The History

Last week I introduced you to a new series of videos focused on the plight of the rivers in Chile's wild Patagonia region. This week we have the second video in the Rios Libres: Environmental Dispatches series, which will eventually be four parts in length. This time out we get a bit of a history lesson of the challenges that the rivers in Patagonia face as multi-national companies race to place dams on the river there in order to create hydroelectric power. But the impact of those dams could have a dramatic and irreversible effect on one of the last great wild spaces on our planet. We've seen it happen elsewhere and it would be a shame to see it happen in Patagonia as well.

Episode 2- The History from Rios Libres on Vimeo.

Video: Saving Patagonia's Wild Rivers

A new web video series has just launched entitled "Rios Libres: Environmental Dispatches." The four-part series explores the threats to Chile's rivers and the unique challenges that the people of that country are facing in order to save their wild spaces, including Patagonia, one of the most spectacular wildernesses on the planet.

The issue is that large conglomerates are planning to place five dams along two major rivers in Patagonia. Those dams will have a massive effect on the rivers and the ecosystems that surround them. In the video below, which is Episode 1 of this new series, we meet some of the people that live in Patagonia and get their thoughts on what the Baker and Pascua rivers mean to them.

Episode 1- The People from Rios Libres on Vimeo.

Future In Doubt For Patagonian Expedition Race

The Patagonian Expedition Race has been a fixture on the adventure racing calendar for ten years. Over that period, the race has earned itself a reputation for being one of the toughest around while also earning rave reviews from athletes for the stunning courses that were created year in and year out. Now, it seems the future of the race is in serious jeopardy and the adventure racing community runs the risk of losing yet another classic expedition length event.

The news broke earlier today in a local Chilean newspaper (translation required). Race managers Stjepan Pavicic is suspending the race for 2014 due to lack of local support from the authorities in the Patagonia region. As you can imagine, putting on a race of this caliber on an annual basis, particularly in a remote setting, can be very difficult. From the sound of things, it seems Pavicic doesn't feel like his race is getting the support it needs to thrive. This is particularly disheartening considering the amount of exposure it brings to the region and the revenue it generates for the local economy.

Pavicic has said that he will wait until June 10 to make a final announcement on the fate of the race. The hope is that perhaps one or two of the sponsors will step up to lend a hand, or perhaps a new sponsor might be interested in joining the team. Barring some kind of miracle however, it now appears that there will be no Patagonian Expedition Race next year. He does say he'll reassess the situation in 2015 to see if it is viable to bring back the event at that time.

So?? Any outdoor-oriented companies out there looking for a little exposure want to step in and save this great race? I'm sure the race directors would love to hear from you.

Video: Kayaking Chile's Rio Baker River In Patagonia

Our friends at EpicTV have just released the first video in a 12-part series that will follow some great paddlers as they take on epic white water in a variety of locations around the globe. In the first episode below, the team kayaks the Rio Baker River, located deep inside Chilean Patagonia. Just how deep you ask? Apparently it takes two days just to drive into the river to begin the paddle itself. As always with Patagonia, the landscapes are breathtaking as well. This should be a great series for sure.

Ultrarunner Billy Barnette To Race In Patagonian Ultramarathon

Way back in February I told you about a new trail running event that is scheduled to take place in the Patagonian region of Chile this September. The 2nd annual Patagonian International Marathon is set to take place on September 28 inside Torres del Paine National Park and will offer competitions ranging in length from a mere 10k, all the way up to a full-blown 63k ultramarathon. Now, organizers of the event have announced that a well-known endurance athlete has joined the race and will be competing alongside other top endurance athletes.

Ultra-runner Billy Barnette, who is featured in the best selling book Born to Run, has come onboard the Patagonian International Marathon to serve as an international ambassador who will not only promote the event, but also its efforts to support conservation in Chile's breathtaking wilderness. While there, he'll be competing in the all-new 63k ultramarathon (39.1 mile).

If you'd like to take part in the Patagonian Internatonal Marathon, registration for the event is now open. Prices are very reasonable for an event like this one and you simply can't beat the scenery you'll be running through. But the competition isn't just about a race in one of the world's most beautiful places, as it is also meant to bring awareness of the challenges in the arena of conservation that Patagonia faces as well.

For more information about the race visit PatagonianInternationalMarathon.com.

Video: The Beauty Of Torres Del Paine

Patagonia is amongst the most beautiful and rugged environments on our planet and Chile's Torres Del Paine is the the best example of those landscapes. If you've never been there, you'll certainly want to go after watching the video below. It is four and a half minutes of eye candy that will leave you longing for wild spaces. Enjoy.

Torres Del Paine - Magallanes. Chile. from Imaginario Colectivo on Vimeo.

Italian Climber Shares Account Of First Ascent Of Torre Egger West Face

On March 2, Italian climbers Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera completed one of the most sought after climbing routes in the entire world when the put up the first ascent of the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia. The jagged rock face, which stretches 2685 meters (8809 ft) into the air, required 30 pitches, 25 of which were complete new, to complete. The two climbers had to overcome a 1000 meters (3280 ft) vertical rock race on their way to the top, which was a culmination of more than three years of work to get there.

Earlier today I received a note from the climbers PR team at addidas outdoors sharing some photos and details from the expedition. What follows is an account from della Bordella of all of the hard work that went into completing this tough ascent, with the new route earning the moniker of "Notti Magiche" or Magic Nights.

Three years ago, at a round table in Lecco, the West face of Torre Egger was presented to me and Matteo Bernasconi “Berna” as possibly the last big wall of Patagonia still unclimbed. Climbing legends Mario Conti and Carlo Aldè* showed us the a few photos of the Egger West face and gave a little description of what we could find. This little information was enough to convince me and Berna to take on the challenge of opening the first route on this immaculate wall. With no experience of Patagonia I had no idea of what to expect, nevertheless I was super psyched for starting this new adventure.
During the winter 2010-2011 and 2011-2012 we tried our best to succeed on this wall, facing many extreme situations such as my fall on a belay which left both of us hanging on a single cam or the huge fall of ice and debris from the summit mushrooms that forced us to take some objective risks. We learned a lot about Patagonia, its mountains and its unpredictable weather and we also learned a lot about opening a new route on a big wall in such a remote place like this. We arrived at a high point just 30 meters below the Col de Lux which divides Punta Herron from Torre Egger and then decided to retreat due to the previously mentioned fall on the belay.

Just 30m from the submit little was missing to complete our route but still we had to go back in 2013 to properly finish the job. We thought of opening our team to a third person, in order to be lighter and safer on the wall. The first name who came to our minds was Luca Schiera (aged 22); a talented youngster from Lecco on his first extra-European experience.

After 35 days of staying in Chalten with mostly bad weather, Berna had to go back to Italy due to job commitments while Luca and I decide to give it a last try. Wednesday 20th of February we head to Circo los Altares and then to Filo Rosso where we pitch our tent and settle a small base camp. We wait for seven days through changeable weather for the right conditions to climb on the wall. Then finally on Thursday 28th February we start our final push.

The first day on the wall we partly re-climbed and partly jug on the old fixed ropes left from the previous year. We get to a point two pitches down from the highest point reached the previous year, where we spent a night bivying hanging on our harnesses. A truly magic night for Luca and me.

The following day, Friday 1st March, we opened four new pitches up to Col Giongo-Di Donà or Col Lux, following a different line from the one attempted last year. At 4pm we arrived at Col Lux where we melted some snow and prepared the bivy and finally took a little rest.

Saturday 2nd March was the summit day. We thought of opening an independent line to the top but in the end followed the Huber-Snarf route. At 11.20am, after a 1,000m long route, made up of thirty pitched (25 new independent ones and the last five shared with the Huber-Snarf route) we stood on the summit of Torre Egger. It is the moment I’ve desired and dreamt of for three long years. But we were aware that a long and complicate descent was expecting us. Sunday 3rd March we finally completed the descent and at 3.30pm we were back to our tent in Filo Rosso, bringing down all the fixed ropes we used.

We called the route “Notti Magiche” (magic nights) a name which ironically remembers the uncomfortable bivys but at the same time recall the magic Patagonian nights. The 2012 attempt which stopped 30 meters below the Col Lux, is truly an independent line, waiting to be finished and will remain with the original name of “Die Another Day”.

I want to remember that this route is the result of a big team effort and thus a team success. A team that goes beyond Berna, Luca and I and involves the whole Ragni group. Without the support and the trust of Ragni di Lecco and our sponsors, adidas outdoor, none of this would have been possible.

This is a pretty strong candidate for climb of the year and we're only a few months in. The West Face has been one of the Holy Grails of rock climbing for some time and it is fantastic that someone was finally able to complete it. Congrats to Matteo, Luca and the entire team for a job well done.