Everest 2013: Ueli Weighs In And The Sherpa Side Of The Story

The story of the conflict that broke out on Everest this past weekend continues to dominate the news in the world adventure today. While I know many of us are ready to put the event behind us and move on, it is clear that it was an ugly incident no matter how you cut it. It is also important to note that there are always multiple sides to the story as well. In order to be fair and try to provide as much info as possible, I wanted to share a couple more nuggets of information about the clash between the three European climbers and the Sherpas.

First up, Ueli Steck has given an interview to SwissInfo.ch in which he shares a lot of information about what happened, at least from his perspective. The gist of what went down is already out there, so I won't recount the whole tale once again, suffice as to say it is important to hear it from Ueli himself. He fills in some important details, such as when he, Simone and Jon were climbing up the Lhotse Face beside the Sherpa teams, Ueli claims that there ropes were 50 meters (160 ft) to the left of those the Sherpas were putting into place. That makes it seem highly unlikely that they would have kicked ice or snow down onto the teams working below them. He also says that the team's intention was to spend the night at Camp 3, but decided they needed to head down to C2 to try to work things out with the Sherpas because they felt bad that the other commercial teams were not getting the ropes fixed. Those are ropes that Ueli says he and his companions didn't need in the first place, but most everyone else would. He claims that they felt so bad about the situation that they they completed fixing the ropes up to Camp 3, an additional 260 meters by some accounts, for the Sherpas.

The scene of course turned wild when they returned to Camp 2 with as many as 100 Sherpas attacking them. Ueli credits Melissa Arnot with saving his life and helping defuse the situation, and says that Greg Vernovage of IMG also was instrumental in calming things down and ensuring he stayed safe. I suspect there were others involved as well and we'll hear more stories like this one in the days ahead.


Perhaps saddest of all, Ueli says that he is now done with Everest. It seems the entire situation has spoiled him on Nepal and the Himalaya, and at the moment he says he doesn't want to come back. Hopefully that is just the heat of the moment speaking and that once he clams down, gets some perspective and has a chance to reflect, he'll change his mind. We'll just have to wait and see.

The entire interview is worth a read, so if you have an interest in this topic, give it a look.

As with all things, there are always two sides to the story and that once again seems to be the case with this incident. Alan Arnette has posted a detailed account of the entire affair that was written by Garrett Madsen who is the leader of the Alpine Ascents team. It fills in some more important details that help explain the situation further. For instance, the Sherpas were operating under the assumption that there wouldn't be any other teams on the Lhotse Face while they fixed ropes up to Camp 3. That was agreed upon by all of the team leaders in a meeting on April 18. Simone Moro wasn't at that meeting however, so he wasn't aware of this agreement. Working on the Lhotse Face is incredibly demanding and difficult, so the Sherpas need to concentrate on their efforts. Having another team there was distracting and counter productive to what they were doing.

When the initial confrontation broke out just below C3, Garrett claims that it was Simone who set upon the Sherpas gathered there and began berating them in Nepalese, using foul language and demeaning words. That was the straw that broke the camels back, sending the Sherpas down to C2. Later, Simone reportedly got on the radio and using an open channel called out the Sherpas, even saying they should be ready for a fight. He was steamed and wasn't letting go of the situation either.

When they descended to C2, a heated debate broke out as to who was in the right and who should apologize to whom. Another Western climber, who had nothing to do with the incident at all, bumbled into a Sherpa, who turned to defend himself. That started the big brawl which created a scene during which Ueli, Simone and Jonathan were punched, kicked and hit with rocks. While it has bee widely reported that a small group of Western climbers helped to defuse the situation, Garrett is also quick to point out that there was a group of Sherpas hat came to the aid of European team too. I think it is important to point that out.

While the situation has not been good for the reputations of any of those involved, I think we can all agree that it is time to start putting it behind us. There is a lot of climbing to be done yet this year and this whole situation is a black eye on Everest and Nepal. Ueli and Jon are reportedly heading to Kathmandu tomorrow and it remains to be seen if Simone will depart as well.

This certainly has been a strange season on the Big Hill and it isn't over yet.

Expedition 1000: Go Trekking Around Europe

Over the past several years we've been following adventurer Dave Corthnwaite as he's ridden a tandem bike from Vancouver to Las Vegas, taken a stand-up paddleboard the length of the Mississippi River and swam more than 1000 miles along the Missouri River. All of those adventures were part of Dave's Expedition 1000 project, during which he is attempting to complete 25 individual excursions of at least 1000 miles (1609 km) in length without the use of motorized transportation. Today, Dave sets out on the next leg of his project on what he calls the Go Trek.

While on the Go Trek, Dave will cover more than 3000 miles (4828 km) as he buzzes around Western Europe on an Elliptigo – a strange mash-up of an elliptical machine and a bicycle. Riders propel the bike forward by using the same motion as when they are on an elliptical machine, which sounds like a lot of fun and a lot of work at the same time. Dave will be joined on this journey by adventurer Squash Falconer, who has a name like a Bond villain but looks more like a Bond girl. Her resume includes successful summits of Everest, Cho Oyu and Aconcagua, amongst others.

Over the next nine weeks, the Go Trek will pass through the U.K., the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and France. Along the way, Dave and Squash are encouraging the general public to come join them and to that end they've published their schedule and route so that we can all plan accordingly. The plan is to share the fun of adventure with any who are willing to join them. And of course, as always with an Expedition 1000 journey, the Go Trek will also be used to raise funds for the CoppaFeel organization, a nonprofit dedicated to fighting breast cancer through early detection.

While we're on the subject of Dave and his many adventures, I'd also like to point out that his latest book, Life in the Slow Lane (Kindle UK link) is now available on the Amazon Kindle or on the Kindle App for iPhone, iPad and Android devices. The e-version of the book costs just $3.49 or £3.08 and won't be available in paperback until June. It tells the tale of how Dave changed his life from someone who went about the daily office grind into a person who embraced adventure and travel. Obviously this is what he does now, and his life is more enriched for it. I haven't had the chance to read the book yet myself, but it is on my summer reading list.

You'll be able to follow Dave and Squash's progress on Go Trek's official website. And if you live in one of the five European countries that they'll be visiting along the way, be sure to check when they'll be passing through your area.

Himalaya 2013: Summits On Shisha!

With all of the drama surrounding Everest over the past couple of days, it is easy to forget that there are plenty of other expeditions in the Himalaya this spring. In fact, while the teams on Everest continue to toil away on acclimatization rotations, elsewhere in the region other teams are already bagging summits.  A spate of good weather has been a welcome respite from conditions earlier in the season and climbers are now taking advantage of it to climb higher.

Last week we had our first summits of the season on Makalu and this week we have more successful summits, this time on Shisha Pangma. Earlier today a team that included Austrian climber Rupert Hauer,  Turkish climber Tunç Findik and Germans Luis Stitzinger and Alix von Melle reached the top of the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) mountain, which is the 14th tallest in the world, but the smallest of the 8000 meter peaks.

Others currently on Shisha but apparently not apart of this current summit bid include Spanish cilmber Rosa Fernandez, Germans Cleo Weidlich and Thomas Laemmle. Each seems to have wrapped up the acclimatization and will be looking for a weather window this coming weekend.


Over on Dhaulagiri, Polish climber Pawel Michalski is back in Base Camp after spending a few nights at Camp 2. He reports very high winds at altitude, which forced him back down the mountain. He should be close to wrapping up his acclimatization efforts as well and will most likely be looking for a weather window in the next week or so too.

Kinga Baranowska has completed her first foray up Makalu, establishing Camp 1 at 6300 meters (20,669 ft) and then pressing on to build C2 at 6600 meters (21,653 ft) before heading back to BC. She reports an inordinate number of crevasses between the two camps, which will make for slow going when moving up the slope. She also says there is less snow there this year, although plenty of ice. A good set of crampons will be in order. After spending a few days in BC, she and her teammate Rafal Fronia are now moving back up amidst good weather to spend a few nights at their higher camps. They will likely be scouting for a good location for Camp 3 while they are there.

Finally, teams aiming for a summit on Lhotse are patiently waiting for their opportunity to come. As you know, those climbers share the same Base Camp and route up to C3 as the Everest climbers, so much of their progress is the same. Right now, that means its all about acclimatization rotations and most teams are now on their way to Camp 3 or are already spending time there. While the Sherpas work to fix the lines to the summit of Everest, which will likely be completed early next week, the Lhotse climbers will have to remain patient and wait. The Sherpas will first complete the lines up Everest, then Lhotse and finally Nuptse. The teams will then proceed up in roughly that order.

Lots more action in the Himalaya to come. Stay tuned for more update.

Everest 2013: Dispute Between Climbers And Sherpas Resolved

Yesterday the big news that dominated the headlines for Everest and the mountaineering world in general was the story about the conflict that took place between Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith with the team of Sherpas who were fixing the ropes up the Lhotse Face. I won't go into details on the subject again, as it has already been rehashed a dozen times, but if you missed the story you can read my full account here.

Obviously this story was a strange one, as you don't often see conflicts erupting between the climbers and the Sherpas in general, let alone a dispute that turns violent. Nepal's Ministry of Tourism takes these kinds of affairs very seriously and yesterday they convened a meeting in Everest Base Camp between all of the parties involved to seek a resolution. By all accounts, that meeting went well with both sides apologizing and agreeing to put their differences aside. Government officials took Simone, Ueli and Jon to task for ignoring the Sherpas orders to stay off the ropes and to not climb above them, as that could have put the health of those Sherpas in jeopardy. On the other hand, the Ministry also admonished the Sherpas for their rash behavior that eventually led to a violent attack on the three European climbers.

Both sides signed an agreement taking responsibility for their actions. Alan Arnette published the text of that agreement last night and here is what it had to say:

Today, on 2070 Bhaishak 16 (April 29, 2013) at Everest base camp at SPCC office, with the presence of the Chief of Nepal Army team leader, Major Sunilsingh Rathor and the following attended personnels agreed to do the following decisions regarding the arguments between the two groups on April 27 while fixing ropes between camp 2 & camp 3. 

1. On April 27 2013, above Everest Base Camp, at Camp 2 and Camp 3 an agreement arose between foreign climbers and Nepali climbers and the situation was discussed today at this meeting. Both parties have realized their errors and apologized to each other in front of those present. Furthermore, both parties agreed to help each other in the future to make successful each others goals. It has also been decided that this issue will not be raised again. 

2. All those present agreed and committed that such activities must never be repeated by anyone in mountaineering and in the tourism sector. If any party is dissatisfied with the actions of another party, they commit not to go into conflict or use violence against the other party. Instead they commit to report the actions to the government representatives or releventent government recognized association present at the base camps, to come to an amicable solution between the parties.

We're told that the teams shook hands and parted ways amicably although it is unclear at this time whether or not Simone, Ueli and Jon will continue their expedition. Yesterday I read on the Peak Freaks blog that the three men had "cancelled their climb and have left the mountain." That led me to update my original story with the news that they had left for home. But other outlets, including Alan and ExWeb are less clear on the matter. It could be that the Simone, Ueli and Jon have gone down the Valley for a rest and will return to resume their climb along a new route in a few days. That would give the Sherpas time to fix the ropes up to the South Col and keep the teams out of each others way while they work.

Update: As I completed this post, some new information has come to light. At least one more outlet is reporting that the team is heading home. According to this story, the three Europeans will head back to Kathmandu via Helicopter tomorrow. Simone is quoted as saying "violence killed our climbing dream." It looks like the preliminary reports were accurate and the climb is indeed over for this group. Such a shame.

In the stories that came out over the past few days it was reported that several climbers came to the aid of Ueli, Simone and Jon when they were attacked in Camp 2. The names of those who helped diffuse the situation there, and quite possibly saved their lives, have not been given until now. I'm told that three climbers who were instrumental in the affair were Peter Hamor, Horia Colibaseanu and Iustin Ionescu, each of whom is a talented and experienced climber in his own right. We'd be remiss if we didn't give a tip of the hat to those three men for risking their own lives to assist others. I'm told that none of these three would ever step forward to claim credit for their actions, but had they no intervened, this story might have had a much worse ending.

Lets hope we don't see a scene like this one on Everest, or any other mountain, for a very long time.

Video: Take A Tour Of Camp 2 On Everest

The Jagged Globe team is currently climbing Everest and as a part of their normal acclimatization rotations, the climbers are currently in Camp 2 on the South Side of the mountain. They were kind enough to share a video from C2 that gives us all a good sense of what it is like to be in that place. I love these videos because it helps us all to better understand where the climbers are at any given time and know what life is like on the mountain.

Keep in mind while watching this, that it was in this vicinity that the attack on Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith went down.

Outside Magazine Selects 2013 Gear Of The Year (Summer Edition)

Still looking to add some new gear to your collection this spring? Then Outside magazine has you covered. Outside editors have announced their selection for the best gear for the summer season in their 2013 Gear of the Year awards.

This time out 15 great pieces of outdoor equipment made the list, providing shoppers with some excellent choices in the way of new backpacks, tents, running shoes and more. Each of these items is obviously designed for use the warmer spring and summer months, although much of it is versatile enough to be used all year round.

Earning a spot on the Gear of the Year list this time around is the new Mica FL2 tent from the North Face, which is a lightweight and durable three-season shelter. Osprey's new Xenith 88 pack earns a nod as well. It is lauded for being a big pack that is both comfortable and easy to fit. Salomon's S-Lab Sense Ultra trail shoes is the selection for runners, while the new Rip 9 RDO from Niner comes highly recommended for the mountain bike crowd.

This is just a taste of the items that make the list. There are plenty of other suggestions in the area of footwear, sunglasses, cycling and more. Of course, the ubiquitous GoPro Hero 3 Black edition gets a mention too and at this point we all know how good of a camera that is.

If you're in the mood to spend a little cash, take a look what Outside recommends you add to your gear closet. I'm sure there is something on their you'll find hard to resist.

Everest 2013: The Grind Continues As Teams Prep For Summit Bids

Despite the major drama that went down in Camp 2 and 3 on Everest over the weekend, most of the teams continued their all important acclimatization rotations. While news travels fast on the world's tallest mountain, and I'm sure most of the climbers heard about the incident that took place between the Sherpas and Simone Moro and Ueli Steck, they all had work to do and had little time to dwell on the situation. May is rapidly approaching now, which means summit day is closer than they think and there is still plenty of preparation that needs to be completed before anyone makes a move toward the top.

Of course, no one gains access to the summit without the Sherpa teams fixing ropes first. As we know by now, those lines have been set all the way up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3, and while no work was done on Saturday, the Sherpa teams were back at it yesterday. The initial plan was to reach the summit sometime in the first week of May, but now the team charged with setting down the rope is short a few key members. Whether or not that will slow down the process remains to be seen, but I suspect the lines will be in place on schedule.

While the teams wait for news on the ropes situation, they are continuing to march up and down the mountain, allowing their bodies to acclimatize nicely. IMG has been systematically rotating their three teams between Base Camp, C1 and C2 as they put in the hard work that will pay off in a few weeks time. Similarly the RMI squad spent most of the weekend in Camp 2 and hiked up to the start of the Lhotse Face as they concentrate on their own efforts. The Peak Freaks are in the midst of their latest rotation as well and indicate that they plan to spend the night in Camp 3 tomorrow. That will be a major milestone for that team, which will return to BC for a rest afterward.

David Tait has shared a bit of a harrowing update, writing about his experiences of getting caught in a minor avalanche on Everest. As always, it is quite a good read – that is if you can find it on David's website, which inexplicably mixes blog reports, video dispatches and tweets in a moving mess that is more confusing than helpful.

Climber/journalist Bili Bierling has returned to Everest Base Camp now that her bout with altitude sickness is fully behind her. She waits patiently for her attempt on Nuptse, which won't really be able to get underway until after the ropes are fixed up Everest and Lhotse. She's keeping herself busy writing reports on the progress of the Himex team and doing research for the legendary Miss Elizabeth Hawley.

On the North Side, the Altitude Junkies spent some time at Advanced Base Camp over the weekend as their acclimatization efforts continued far from the drama that unfolded on the South Side of the mountain. High winds pushed the team back down to BC today however, where they are now enjoying the relative comforts that come along with being back at the base of Everest. The ropes are fixed all the way up to Camp 3 and Sherpas are now shuttling gear to that point in preparation of the team reaching there in the next week or so.

The 7 Summits club started their first rotation over the weekend as well after having their Puja late in the week. They were all moving up toward ABC over the weekend and there has been no update on their progress since. It is likely that they are still there or may be descending today.

Weather reports say the next few days should be good on both sides of the mountain, although a shift in the jet stream may bring higher winds on the upper slopes. For now though, it is all about climbing high and sleeping low as they teams continue their prep work. This will be the pattern for the next few weeks while we wait for the ropes to be put into place and the eventual weather windows to open.

Stay tuned for more.

Everest 2013: Ueli Steck and Simone Moro Attacked, Lives Threatened By Sherpas

I'll get to a normal Everest update later this morning, but wanted to share this breaking news from the weekend first. It seems it was an eventful weekend on Everest with lots of teams moving and continued rope fixing up the Lhotse Face. But the biggest news of all is that high profile climbers Ueli Steck, Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith were attacked by an angry mob of Sherpas on Saturday and forced to descend the mountain. The incident was apparently bad enough to send Ueli to the hospital and death threats were given to the three men.

Apparently the altercation started when Simone, Ueli and Jonathan were climbing up to Camp 3 where the rope-fixing team was busy installing the lines up the mountain. As they neared their position, the Sherpas told the climbers to stay off the lines while were working on them, which the trio gladly did. The men moved up the mountain in parallel with the Sherpas to reach their already established Camp 3,  at which point they had to cross the fixed lines in order to reach the campsite.

When the lead Sherpa noticed that they were crossing the ropes he descended rapidly, possibly bumping into Ueli and then accusing the Swiss climber of touching him. A heated argument broke out with the Sherpa accusing the team of Europeans of knocking ice off the face of the mountain which then struck – and possibly injured – one of the Sherpas below. Simone attempted to diffuse the situation as he is known to have a good working relationship with the Sherpas, but tempers only flared further with reports of the Italian climber actually cursing out the lead Sherpa.

At this point, the lead Sherpa ordered all of his men to descend to Camp 2 and put an end to rope fixing for the day. In short, he was holding the rest of the teams on the mountain hostage for something he believed Ueli and Simone had done. Meanwhile, Ueli hoped to calm the situation by helping fix ropes himself, adding another 260 meters of rope up to Camp 3. After completing their work and delivering supplies to their camp, the trio descended to Camp 2, which is when things moved from bad to worse.

Upon arrival in Camp 2, Ueli, Simone and Jonathan were immediately set upon by a large group of angry Sherpas. The size of the group varies in reports from a couple of dozen to nearly a hundred. Either way, the men were assaulted viciously by the crowd. They were kicked and punched, rocks were thrown and one report even indicates there was a knife involved. Other Western climbers intervened the situation and helped calm things down over time, but the fracas apparently lasted for nearly 50 minutes.

In the immediate aftermath, Ueli, Simone and Jonathan were told to leave camp and head down the mountain or they would all be killed. Gathering a few essentials, they then descended to Base Camp without using the ropes. The threat was so serious that they didn't even want to risk using the existing lines for safety.

During the fight in Camp 2, Ueli was struck by a thrown rock and as a result he was evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu. His injury was minor thankfully and there are reports that he is already back in BC, although ExWeb indicates that he is heading home. We'll have to wait for clarification on that point.

Several of the Sherpas that were involved in the situation have been ordered off the mountain and the situation is under investigation by the Ministry of Tourism, the Sherpa Association and the Nepalese police. As you can imagine, the government in Nepal takes this situation very seriously as they rely on the climbers coming to the country to help fund other projects. The mere thought of the lives of visitors being threatened isn't good for business.

For his part, Simone says that he believes the lead Sherpa was over reacting because of hurt pride and being extremely tired. The Italian climber says that he,  Ueli and Jonathan made their descent very quickly and easily, catching the Sherpa team that was moving much more slowly. He feels that bruised the ego of the head Sherpa, who was looking for an excuse to head down the mountain and get some rest anyway. Whether that interpretation of the events is accurate is hard to say, but it seems that there was probably a bit of blame to go around on both sides here.

In the case of the three European climbers, it seems that they probably could have been more careful crossing the ropes, taking caution to not knock ice off the slope that could injure a Sherpa below. But it should be noted that ice falling from above is a common occurrence on a climb like this, and as of now, no Sherpa has come forward to claim an injury from falling ice.

Regardless of whether or not this actually happened, the Sherpas have no excuse for their reaction. Having an angry mob assault three climbers on Everest is simply inexcusable. To threaten their lives, beat them senseless and even injure them is unthinkable. The mountain offers enough dangers without these kinds of situations as well.

I'm sure we'll hear a lot more about this in the days to come, but it sounds like it was a scary situation for the Euro climbers on Saturday. Whether or not they'll feel safe enough to attempt to go up again remains to be seen. They may decide that it simply isn't worth the risk and they truly will go home for the season. Simone does operate a rescue helicopter in the region however, so if he doesn't climb, he is likely to stay to continue those operations.

For more information on the incident, read this full account at EpicTV and check out Stefan Nestler's well written and objective take on the story as well.

What a crazy story to start the week off on. Wow!

Video: Baisikeli - The Story Of An African Cycling Team

We all know that the athletes from Kenya are well known as some of the best long distance runners on the planet. But what if those same athletes turned their attention to cycling – a sport that demands plenty of endurance and skill as well? That's the question that the creative team behind a new film entitled Baisikeli will ask as they follow a Kenyan cycling team as they deal with the trials and tribulations of learning the sport in hopes of some day becoming an international powerhouse.

The filmmakers have launched a Kickstarter campaign for the film and they're currently looking for some funding to help move forward with the project. The teaser for what they have in mind can be found below, and as a fan of cycling and all things Africa, I think it looks very interesting. The goal of the Kickstarter is to raise £33,000 ($51,000) to help fund the project and as of right now they're sitting at a fraction of that with 18 days to go. Hopefully it'll get proper funding as I'd like to hear more of this story.

BAISIKELI - The Story of an African Cycling Team - TEASER from Sinamatella Productions on Vimeo.

Himalaya 2013: Death On Makalu

Earlier today I posted an update from the Himalaya that included a few details on the first summit of the season, but now we're also receiving word of tragedy on that same climb.

American solo climber Don Bowie is on Makalu as well and is just starting his acclimatization efforts. But he has more details of the summit from a few days back that not only put Iranian alpinist Azim Gheichisaz on top but two other climbers as well. It seems Azim was joined by Mr. Chun Feng-Yang of China and Lapka Dendi Sherpa of Nepal. All three men reached the true summit with Azim doing so without the use of bottled oxygen.

But sadly Don is also reporting that a fourth man set out on that summit push as well and was tragically lost on the descent. Few details are known at this time, but it seems Mr. Xiang Yang-Liu, also of China, fell while coming back down the mountain and perished there.

There are always inherent risks with any mountaineering expedition but that doesn't make the news of a death in the mountains any easier to take. My condolences to the friends and family of the deceased.

Video: Climbing Makalu

Earlier today I reported the first summit of the season in the Himalaya with Iranian climber Azim Ghychisaz knocking of Makalu, the 8481 meter (27,825 ft) peak located just to the southeast of Everest. This mountain isn't nearly as well known as its neighbor but the video below gives you an indication what it is like to climb the Himalayan giant. The 11-minute short film was shot back in 2010 and is mostly in French, but you'll get the gist of the experience none the less.

Thanks to ExWeb for sharing this.

Himalaya 2013: First Summit Of The Season!

While the climbers on Everest head into the weekend completely focused on their acclimatization, elsewhere in the Himalaya other teams are going about their work as well. Most are in the midst of their rotations as well as they prepare for their eventual summit bids, but one climber has already knocked off his objective, claiming the first 8000 meter summit of the season.

ExWeb is reporting that Iranian climber Azim Ghychisaz successful reached the summit of the 8481 meter (27,825 ft) Makalu. Azim reported topped out on Wednesday after spending jus two weeks on the mountain. He was the first person in Base Camp this spring and while others have now joined him, his early arrival allowed him to get a head of the other teams and nab the early season summit. This is Azim's 11th 8000-meter peak. He still has Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma to add to his resume. Congratulations on a job well done.

Also in Makalu BC this spring is Don Bowie who has written a good account of what it is like just to travel to Nepal and begin the trek to Base Camp ahead of the climb. If you've never made the trip yourself, it is a blur of airplanes and airports that takes the better part of two days to complete and that is just to get to Kathmandu. After that, its a flight out to Lukla just to get on the trail that will eventually take you to Everest, Makalu or any number of other peaks. It is quite the journey just begin the climb.

The Polish team of Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia held their Puja ceremony in Makalu BC on Wednesday which allows them to officially launch their expedition. They immediately started lugging gear up the slopes and were expected to establish Camp 1 yesterday. Weather has been more dependable across the region the past few days, so it is likely that they've been able to complete that task and are now planning their strategy for moving higher.

Over on Dhaulagiri, Polish climber Pawel Michalski is on the move. Yesterday he spent seven hours climbing from BC up to Camp 1 and he plans to continue up to C2 today. After suffering horrible weather this past week, he is happy to be on the move once again. This is just a normal acclimatization rotation at this point, which will help his body to adjust to the thinner air at altitude.

Finally, on Lhotse most of the teams are following the same schedule as their Everest counterparts. Remember, the two climbs share the same route up to Camp 3 before veering off in different directions. The fixed ropes up the Lhotse face are expected to be in place by Monday, which means both Everest and Lhotse climbers will be looking to head up to C3 shortly there after. So far, everything is moving according to plan and right on schedule. Just like clockwork.

More soon.

Gear Closet: Duluth Trading Co. Armachillo Shirt And Cargo Shorts

When you live deep in the heart of Texas you really only have two seasons. You have the comfortably warm days between November and May, and then you have the blast furnace known as summer that runs June through October when the mercury rises to 100ºF (38ºC) and pretty much stays there for weeks on end. If you're an outdoor enthusiast you don't want to stay cooped up inside for all those months, so you have to find ways to enjoy your favorite activities while remaining as cool and comfortable as possible. Thanks to improvements in our technical clothing this has become easier than ever before. Our apparel is now breathable and moisture wicking, while remaining stylish at the same time.

The Duluth Trading Co., a clothing company that has earned a reputation for making durable and good looking apparel for the workplace, has turned its nearly 25 years of experience on the outdoor market. Their talented designers have come up with a unique way to create clothing that is noticeably cooler than gear from competitors. They decided to weave microscopic jade particles into the fabric under the theory that those tiny particles will reflect the heat and keep the wearer nice and cool. Those same fabrics also happen to be ultra-lightweight, wicking and breathable, while also remaining durable enough to wear on our demanding outdoor adventures.

In theory, this combination of qualities should make for a fantastic piece of gear for use in warm conditions. How does it perform in the real world? I recently put two of their pieces of gear to the test in order to find out.

Men's Long Sleeve Armachillo Shirt ($59.50)
The Duluth Trading Co. has long been known for their excellent work shirts. The company was founded by two brothers working in the construction business who identified qualities that they would need out of their apparel while on a job site. Over the years, their designs have evolved and become more refined to the point that their shirts have become highly functional and good looking at the same time. That legacy shows through in the Armachillo shirt's design as well and the result is a great looking shirt that you can comfortably wear while hanging around home, running errands around town or traveling to the far flung corners of the globe.

This shirt weighs next to nothing (2.35 ounces/66.6 grams) and features two large, functional pockets right on the chest. The left pocket includes a handy pencil holder while the right incorporates a cell phone sleeve. High quality buttons and durable fabrics round out this attractive, classic looking shirt that has both a modern and throwback look at the same time.

As mentioned the shirt uses high-tech fabrics that breathe well, wick moisture away from the skin and offer UPF 40 levels of protection from the sun. Those same fabrics are covered in an antimicrobial finish that helps fight odors and of course they have those tiny chips of jade incorporated into the design. All of that makes for a great shirt for anyone who is outside for extended periods of time as it truly is comfortable and cool.

I haven't had a chance to test this shirt in the blazing heat yet, but temperatures have already been quite warm on several occasions here this spring. I've worn this Armachillo shirt while on afternoon hikes and on nights out on the town and it has performed extremely well thus far. Best of all, it is quite comfortable and I happen to like the way it looks and fits too.

If you're in the market for a great shirt to wear while hiking, backpacking or traveling, this is certainly an impressive option. I love that it is versatile enough to do all of those things while also serving well as a work shirt or a casual out-on-the-town shirt. I'm not sure how much the integrated jade particles help, but the Armachillo long sleeve shirt definitely lives up to the marketing hype.

Armachillo Cargo Shorts ($54.50)
When the mercury rises I pretty much live in a pair of shorts. I wear them constantly and expect them to be comfortable without restricting motion. Plenty of deep pockets are nice too and it helps if they also breathe to help keep me cool. It doesn't hurt if they look good too so I can wear them just about everywhere.

The Duluth Trading Co.'s Armachillo Cargo Short meet those qualifications and then some. Made from high quality ripstop nylon, these shorts are quick drying, lightweight and form fitting without preventing natural movements. It has nicely sized cargo pockets that are perfect for carrying a cell phone or other small items you want to keep close at hand. The elastic waistline includes an integrated belt that does its job nicely without sticking out like a sore thumb.

Of course, these shorts also feature DTC's ingrained jade chips to help keep the wearer cooler as well as all the other great features found on the Armachillo shirt. They breathe well, they protect from the sun (UPF 40) and they also feature the same antimicrobial treatment. All of that comes in handy on active days on the trail or just relaxing at the beach.

I have to admit that when I first put these shorts on I was a little concerned about the fit. They were a bit snug around my legs, which I thought would bother me once I went for a hike or did something else fairly active. Turns out after a few minutes I didn't even think about it any longer and never noticed it after that. Because they're so good at moving with your body as it goes through its natural motions, these are the kind of shorts you're going to want to wear no matter what you're doing.

These two pieces of clothing complimented each other very well, both in looks and performance. Now that I have them in my wardrobe, I'm not so concerned about the impending heat-wave that we call summer here in Texas. I feel like I'm outfitted to enjoy the season without compromise. And I'll even look good doing it.

Video: River Boarder Drops Gorilla Falls On Green River Narrows

As if dropping waterfalls in a kayak wasn't crazy enough, we now have people going over them on just a river board. In the case of the video below, we find boarder Josh Galt dropping the Gorilla Falls on the Green River Narrows near Asheville, NC. It looks like quite a ride, but not one I'll be taking any time soon.

I worked with Josh on two Primal Quest races and I can tell you he is the consummate professional. I know that he takes safety into consideration first when ever he gets into the water and I'm sure that's the case here as well. River boarding off waterfalls and big rapids is probably going to be a new trend though, so I expect similar videos that push the boundaries even further in the future.

Video: Vivid Landscapes - Climbing In Rocklands With Mélissa Le Nevé

While we're on the subject of adventurous activities in South Africa today, heres a video that features climber Mélissa Le Nevé exploring the wonderful landscapes that make up Rocklands. The short film, which is 24 minutes in length, is beautifully shot and captures Rocklands in stunning fashion. Really an amazing looking place with plenty to offer any outdoor lover.


Vivid Landscapes - Mélissa Le Nevé in Rocklands (1080p) from Haroun Souirji on Vimeo.

Best Hike Treks South Africa's Otter Trail

No one hikes more unique and unusual trails that Rick McCharles, the writer of the always interesting Best Hike Blog. When he isn't busy coaching gymnastics in some bustling gym, Rick can usually be found backpacking his way along hiking routes in all kinds of remote corners of the globe. His most recent journey took him to South Africa to walk the Otter Trail, a route he tells me is spectacularly beautiful, little known in the West and celebrating its 50th anniversary this year.

The Otter Trail stretches for 41 km (25 miles) along South Africa's popular Garden Route. The OT seldom ventures far from the breathtaking coast but it does wander through some rough terrain, climbing up and down rocky shorelines as it meanders across a spectacular region in a country that is filled with amazing locales. It generally takes about five days to hike the trail and there are comfortable huts situated along its length, making it easy find shelter at the end of the day.

Rick is now sharing that experience with readers kicking off his blog coverage with his first Otter Trail post today. Over the next five days he'll continue adding his thoughts on the experience, including some amazing photos of the things that he saw along the way. Today we start with Day 0, during which he shares some thoughts on just getting to the start of the hike. Starting tomorrow, we'll actually get into the trek itself.

What I always love about Rick's writing at Best Hike is that he does an excellent job of introducing us to long distance trails that many of us probably didn't even know existed. Through his well chosen words and beautiful photos, he also has a knack for inspiring us to follow in his footsteps. I have no doubt that his Otter Trail reports will continue that tradition.

Everest 2013: No Rest For The Weary

Now that a bout of good weather has settled over Everest most of the teams are taking advantage of it to get in an acclimatization rotation. For some, it will be their first time up the mountain but others are already preparing for their second round. All of that work will eventually pay off when the summit bids begin in a few weeks, but at the moment it can be a tedious task to march up and down the slopes while attempting eat and sleep at altitude. Two things that can be extremely difficult.

Most of the teams that are heading up to Camp 2 on the South Side are carrying fixed rope with them when they go. The Sherpa teams haven't started fixing the lines up the Lhotse Face, but that work is expected to commence tomorrow. The team of 10 Sherpas tasked with this work will be efficient and professional in their approach. As a result, it is expected that access to Camp 3 will be available as early as Saturday with some teams planning on climbing up to that point this weekend. One of those teams is the IMG squad, which has one of their teams already up in C1 and heading to C2, while others will return to those points over the next few days.

Also heading back up today is the RMI team led by Dave Hahn. He also confirms the plan to begin fixing ropes on the Lhotse Face tomorrow and says that while his team isn't contributing Sherpas to that effort, they will be shuttling ropes up to Camp 2 to help lend a hand. It doesn't sound like they have plans of heading up any higher than that at the moment, so don't look for the RMI climber to visit Camp 3 until sometime next week. It is a slow and steady pace for this crew.

The Peak Freaks are resting in BC after their latest round of acclimatization and most everyone seems to be doing well. One member of the team was evacuated yesterday however as he was suffering from High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhaging (HARH). Christof Deblauwe of Belgium reported seeing strange spots before his eyes, including flashes and yellow spots. A quick examination by the Everest ER team confirmed the diagnosis and Christof was quickly flown by helicopter back to Kathmandu. The lower altitude should solve the problem, but unfortunately he will now have to return home. I've never heard of HARH before, but apparently it is something to take very seriously. If ignored, it can cause permanent loss of sight. Lets be careful out there kids!

One climber who is keeping a close eye on the rope fixing activity is David Tait, who is currently in Base Camp and waiting for his next rotation to begin. He confirms the plan to have the fixed ropes in place to the South Col by April 30, which would put the Sherpas on schedule for completing the work to the summit sometime in the first week of May. Tait, who has climbed the mountain five times already, is likely chomping at the bit to get going and I wouldn't be surprised if he isn't far behind the Sherpas once the work is done. He'll certainly do his best to avoid the large crowds that will be heading up in the middle part of May. David also noted that the Himex team is moving a bit slower this season thanks to having their logistics and Sherpas spread out across the area. He notes that that will all change soon and the team will become more focused on their task at hand.

On the North Side at least one team is having some fun on their expedition. The 7 Summits Club held a high altitude billiards tournament to help their international squad of climbers relax in Base Camp. Remember, on the North Side the teams can actually drive to BC, so no one had to actually lug a pool table all the way up to BC by hand. The result is a nice distraction for the group while they live in BC for a couple of months.

Finally, Denis Urubko and Alexei Bolotov have climbed up to C3 on the South Side, which is located at 7400 meters (24,278 ft). They have established camp there for a few fellow climbers before proceeding back down to BC today. They now intend to head down the valley to Debouche for a little rest before turning their attention to their planned new route along on the Southwest Ridge. Now that they are full acclimatized, that will be the task at hand. They'll probably begin working that route, in alpine style and without oxygen, starting next week.

Good luck to everyone on the mountain. Stay safe.

Cannondale CAAD8 5 105 Review

One of the perks of writing this blog and contributing to others is all of the great gear I get the opportunity to test and review. Over the past few weeks, I've been riding around on a brand new Cannondale CAAD8 5 105 road bike and it has been a bit like riding around in a new car. This morning I posted my thoughts on the bike over at Gadling.com and if you're interested, you can read my full review here.

In a nutshell, the CAAD8 is a fantastic bike and an even better bargain. I absolutely love my current road bike (a Specialized Allez), which is a few years old, but riding around on Cannondale's machine gave me a glimpse at just how far cycling components have evolved in the past few years. Everything about this bike is smooth and nimble, from switching gears to climbing hills to breaking quickly and easily. In short, it has been a joy to ride the CAAD8 and I'm going to be sad returning it to the dealer in a few days.

But the biggest thing that impressed me was just how much bang for your buck Cannondale has delivered here. The CAAD8, which shares some of its geometry with the more expensive CAAD10, costs just $1450. By cycling standards that makes it an "entry level" bike, although it certainly doesn't perform like one out on the road. As I mention in the Gadling review, this is a fantastic bike for beginners and intermediate riders, but even the more experienced cyclist looking to save some cash will enjoy what it brings to the table.

I want to thank my friends at Cannondale for allowing me to take this baby for a test drive over the past few weeks. It's been a real pleasure. And for anyone else who is in the market for a new bike this spring, but doesn't want to do too much damage to their wallet, I'd urge you to drop by your local Cannondale dealer to check it out. I think you'll be very impressed.

The Rest of Everest Episode 184: Off Road Adventure

If you've ever wanted to know more about an expedition to the Karakoram, and how it differs from one to the Himalaya, then you definitely need to be watching the latest season of the Rest of Everest. It is a fantastic weekly video podcast that has been amongst my favorite for years now. In the past, the show has centered around all things Everest, but this season we're headed for K2 and Broad Peak, a very different experience altogether.

In the latest episode, climber Brian Block takes us further along the journey just to get to Base Camp. That started last week with a ride down the Karakoram Highway that took us into Skardu, which is the last big town in the region before heading into the more remote regions. In this episode, the journey continues to Askole, where the trek to BC will actually begin.

U.S. Justice Department Sues Lance Armstrong For Millions

Yesterday the U.S. Justice Department announced its intentions to recoup millions of dollars that were paid to Lance Armstrong by the U.S. Postal Service when it sponsored his team from 1998 to 2004. During that period, the team received more than $40 million, of which $17 million went to Armstrong who rode to six of his seven Tour de France wins under the USPS banner. 

 In the lawsuit the Justice Department says the former pro cyclist was "unjustly enriched" by using performance enhancing drugs to win the Tour. Furthermore, they point out that the sponsorship agreement prohibits the use of banned substances and that Armstrong committed fraud by agreeing to those terms and yet knowingly used PED's anyway. The suit looks to reclaim triple the damages that could be awarded by a jury. Johan Bruyneel, the USPS team director and  management company Tailwind Sports were also named as defendants.

This new case joins a federal whistle-blower lawsuit that has been brought against Armstrong by former team-mate Floyd Landis, who also tested positive for high levels of testosterone in the 2005 Tour de France, and subsequently had his titled stripped at the time. Tuesday was the deadline for moving forward with the case. 

It'll be interesting to see how this all plays out. On the one hand, Lance clearly knew he was doping while he was taking the USPS money, but on the other hand it'll be difficult to prove any damages. Clearly all of Armstrong's sponsors benefited by being associated with him at the time, probably to the benefit of far more cash than they actually paid him. But in this case, we are talking about U.S. tax dollars and a breach of contract. How a jury will be swayed on this one way or another could be fascinating to watch.

This isn't the only legal headache that Armstrong is facing at the moment. Sports-promotions company SCA of Dallas, TX is also suing to get $12 million in bonuses back, while the Sunday Times of London is hoping to recover $500,000 paid out in the settlement of a libel case that later proved to be true. With all of these mountain financial issues, it's no wonder that Lance recently sold his home here in Austin. 

And I thought I was having a rough year. 

Video: Americans On Everest

As I mentioned yesterday, 2013 is an important year on Everest. Not only does it mark the 60th anniversary of the first ascent by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, but it also is the 50th anniversary of the first ascent by an American and the first ascent along the difficult West Ridge.

While surfing through YouTube I came across this great classic climbing film that chronicled that 1963 American expedition. The footage is classic in every sense of the word and I'm sure this short film will bring back memories of watching these kinds of National Geographic movies in our classrooms while growing up. This is a real hidden gem and definitely one that fans of Everest will not want to miss.

Everest 2013: Teams On The Move Once Again

Following the heavy snowstorms that Everest this past weekend, many of the teams spent the early part of the week either bedded down in Base Camp or trying valiantly to descend back to that point from either Camp 1 or 2. Reports indicate that more than a meter of snow fell on the area around C1, which has made it difficult to break trail or for the Sherpas to continue their efforts to fix ropes. But the skies have reportedly cleared – at least for now – and the climbers are once again on the move.

With a bit of a lull in the weather, and a forecast that calls for slightly improved conditions in the days ahead, the plan now is for the rope fixing team, comprised of the top Sherpas from a number of the larger squads, to get back to setting the lines above Camp 2. The current schedule says that they'll finish their work on the Lhotse Face this coming weekend or next Monday at the latest. That will allow the climbers to begin heading up to Camp 3 for the first time as they continue their acclimatization efforts. It also means the Sherpas are on pace to fix the ropes to Camp 4 and the summit sometime during the first week of May, which would be right on schedule with what we've seen in the past few years. After that, the teams will finish their final rotations and watch the skies for their first summit pushes of the year, sometime around mid-May.

Amongst the those who are sending climbers up to Camp 1 today are the IMG squad, who are rotating their second team up the mountain, as well as the Adventure Consultants and Jagged Globe, both of whom are starting their first rotations. Meanwhile, RMI and the Peak Freaks are staying put in BC having already competed their first acclimatization round. They'll rest and regain their strength before starting off once again in a few days. I'm sure they'll want to head up to Camp 3 once it is accessible early next week.

With Billi Bierling down for the count with a case of altitude sickness, there hasn't been much news out of the Himex camp. But fortunately David Tait is not only climbing with that team but doing an excellent job of sharing his experiences. He was amongst the climbers who went up to spend some time at Camp 1 last weekend and even climbed high enough to "tag" C2 before the weather turned really nasty and he had to descend back to BC. He does his usual good job of descriptively sharing the account of his adventure, which in this case was a harrowing descent in snowy conditions. You know the situation is bad when even the Sherpas take pause to consider which way to go down.

Similarly, Melissa Arnot shared a nice account of her first rotation, which she seems to have completed just as the heavier snows were setting in. She's no stranger to the mountain having summited it four times in the past, so she knows what needs to be done to get her up to the top for a fifth time.

Chad Kellogg has also posted a detailed report of his last couple of days trekking into BC and then continuing all the way up to Camp 2. All of that took place last week, prior to the heavy snows. His was to head back up the mountain yesterday and continue his acclimatization while also fixing ropes on the Lhotse Face to Camp 3.

On the North Side, things seem to be proceeding very well. The Altitude Junkies have moved their entire team up to Advanced Base Camp as part of their acclimatization process. Their Sherpa teams have been busy carrying bottled oxygen up to the North Col as well as they prepare for the team's arrival at that point further down the line. The climbers hope to go higher tomorrow to tag the Col itself, before descending back to ABC, but high winds are predicted, which could stymie those efforts.

Finally, Simone Moro and Ueli Steck are expected to arrive back in BC tomorrow after spending some days in Camp 2 and even attempting to move over to the West Ridge. While they still aren't talking much about their intended route up the mountain, it seems that they are planning to do something along the seldom visited West Ridge, which seems fitting for the 50th anniversary of that route.

More to come soon.

Gear Closet: Goal Zero Sherpa 50 Solar Recharging Kit

One of the best advances in technology over the past couple of years has been the improvements made in rechargeable batteries. Those little power sources have become smaller and lighter while also increasing their power output. As a result, we now have all kinds of great outdoor gear, such as headlamps, satellite phones and GPS devices, that feature powerful batteries to keep them powered for a long time between charges. Throw in a smartphone, mp3 player, tablet or digital camera and we now head out on our adventures with more electronic devices than ever.

Keeping those gadgets functioning can be a challenge in and of itself, but fortunately solar technology has advanced to a point that we can use power from the sun to charge our gear. There are a lot of products on the market now that can help us to do just that, although for my money the best of those options comes from Goal Zero. A few months back I positively reviewed their Guide 10 Plus Adventure Kit, finding it to be a fantastic lightweight solar panel/battery pack combo. But that system was mainly designed for small devices and sometimes you need something a bit more powerful to meet your needs.

Enter the GZ Sherpa 50 Kit. This is the kit designed for those heading out on a serious adventure but have a lot of electronic gear they want to use while in the field. It includes Goal Zero's Nomad 13 solar panel, which is a larger and more efficient version of the one that comes with the Guide 10 Plus. The Nomad 13 weights in at just 1.6 pounds and features two very rugged panels to collect as much solar energy as possible. At its peak, it can put out up to 13 watts of power and it's built in USB and 12V DC ports are capable of powering many devices directly from the Nomad 13 itself.

But the real secret weapon in this kit is the Sherpa 50 Portable Recharger. This is a large battery pack that can connect directly to the Nomad 13 solar planes to create a complete on the go charging system. The Sherpa 50 can store up to 50 Watt-Hours of power. It weighs a surprisingly light 1.1 pounds and features a handy digital screen that indicates how fully charged the battery is at any given time and it's rugged construction gives you the sense that it can withstand punishment while on the trail.

Out of the box, the Sherpa 50 comes with a full-powered USB port, as well as 12V and laptop port. Each of those comes in very handy, although the 12V and laptop ports require adapters for your electronic gadgets to be useful. There is nothing wrong with that per se, but it does add yet more cables that you need to bring along with you on what ever trip you're making. The USB port on the other hand puts out 1.5 Amps of power, which is enough to charge even a power hungry iPad. And considering how ubiquitous USB devices are these days, I personally would have preferred a second USB port over say the laptop port.

But what really turns the Sherpa 50 into a useful device is the AC inverter, which comes as standard in the top of the line Sherpa kit but is sold separately from the battery pack on its own. The inverter connects to the side of the Sherpa 50 and adds a standard wall outlet to the mix. That means you can plug just about anything that needs a charge directly into it and give it a quick juice up. That even includes a laptop, which is about the most powerful device you'll be able to charge from the battery pack.

The Sherpa 50 can be charged directly from a wall outlet, which is a perfect way to top off the charge before you hit the road. It takes about three hours to fill it to capacity. But of course, the purpose of the Sherpa 50 Kit is to recharge your devices via the sun. When plugged into the Nomad 13, charging is a bit more uneven and it takes a bit longer. Goal Zero estimates the charge time to be 6-12 hours depending on cloud cover and exposure to the available sunlight. While testing the kit, I found that to be a fairly accurate assessment. In fact, I was very impressed with how quickly the Sherpa charged while in direct sunlight. But more than that, I was impressed with how little light was actually necessary to draw a charge of any kind. A small green light on the back of the Nomad 13 indicates when it is generating power and even on overcast days it is able to draw some juice from the sun, albeit at a much slower pace.

Goal Zero rates the Sherpa 50 as capable of providing 7 full charges of a smartphone, 3 chargers of an E-Reader such as a standard Kindle, 2 charges of a tablet like an iPad and one full recharge of a laptop. I found those numbers to actually be on the conservative side, but for the most part accurate. My Macbook Air for instance, was able to fully recharge from nearly empty and there was still nearly 20% charge left in the Sherpa's battery pack. That means you can charge multiple devices at once without any kind of a problem and if the Nomad 13 is pulling in plenty of sunlight, the Sherpa 50 will even continue to hold a charge.

If you're looking for an affordable charging system that can see you through the a variety of adventures, it is tough to beat the Goal Zero Sherpa 50 Kit. It is powerful, lightweight (full kit is 2.7 pounds) and provides plenty of options for any kind of gadgets you might need to charge. This is the kind of kit that you can take to Everest and have your own personal power station. And if you want to go a little lighter, you can leave either the solar panel or the battery pack at home and just use one or the other, depending on the situation. The top of the line kit, including the inverter add-on pack, will set you back $399. GZ also offers a kit without the inverter which runs $50 less, but frankly I feel like the added functionality that comes with the power outlet is well worth the extra expense. The level of versatility that it brings is hard to beat.

If you want to know just how much I like the Sherpa 50 Kit, this should say it all. I have to pack up my review unit and ship it back, but as soon as I ship it, I'll be ordering one of my own. This is a nice piece of gear to have in your closet for when you really need it.

Video: 50 Years Of Americans On Everest With Eddie Bauer

As we all know, this is a very special year on Everest. 2013 marks the 50th anniversary of the first American ascent of the mountain by Jim Whittaker and the first ascent of the tough West Ridge, which was completed by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld. The company that outfitted that historic expedition was Eddie Bauer, and they're continuing to provide some important gear to mountaineers heading to the Himalaya to this day.

In the short video below, the company celebrates that legacy and looks back on the historic 1963 American expedition. We've definitely come a long way, but it is because we followed in the footsteps of these giants.

The Sierra Club 'Get Out' Campaign Celebrates Earth Month With Celebrity Auction

The Sierra Club has been celebrating Earth  Month with their Get Out campaign which is, not surprisingly, designed to encourage all of us to go outside and enjoy our planet in safe and environmentally responsible ways. The organization has long been one of the most vocal and influential voices championing the cause for keeping some of our favorite places well protected for future generations to enjoy as well.

As part of the Get Out initiative, the Club has been running some interesting auctions on Ebay to serve as a fundraiser for their important and varied efforts. Many of the items on the auction come from celebrity supports of the Sierra Club's mission and all proceeds generated from the auction go directly toward their goal of  working "to educate, inspire, and empower humanity to preserve the natural and human environment." If you'd like to help out the Sierra Club, while picking up some fun items for yourself, perhaps you'll want to place some bids.

And what exactly do they have up for auction? Well, I'm glad you asked. You'll find everything from a skateboard deck autographed by Shawn White to a training session with Tae Bo creator Billy Blanks. You can also bid to take a tour of the Weather Channel or to get a 4-night stay at the Pali Uli Garden's Waterfall House on Maui in Hawaii. There are even some fun celebrity encounters up for grabs too, such as the very popular get out and hang with Elle MacPherson option.

 That's not all however. The Club is also giving away a trip for two for a 5-night stay to the Four Seasons Resort in Lanai. Who couldn't use a quick escape to Hawaii at the moment? To sign up, simply fill out this form online.  All of these auctions are going to a great cause, so if you see something of interest, such as Elle MacPherson (currently going for just $559!), be sure to make a bid!

And Earth Day may be passed, but Earth Month isn't over yet. Find out more about the Get Out campaign by clicking here.

Video: EpicTV Interviews Mike Libecki

Explorer and climber Mike Libecki was named a National Geographic Adventurer of the Year for putting up first ascents in Borneo and making first descents on snowboards in Afghanistan. Recently he sat down with the crew over at EpicTV to conduct a video interview of what he has been up to since. In the interview he talks about climbing in Antarctica, Yemen and much, much more. Some of the real highlights of the video are some of his amazing photos from the places he has been. Excellent stuff.

Himalaya 2013: Action Away From Everest

While the bulk of my coverage from the Himalaya this season has centered around Everest thus far, it is important to note that there are plenty of climbers on other mountains in the region as well. Just like their companions on the Big Hill, these climbers have quietly been going about their work, acclimatizing and preparing for eventual summit pushes. Here is a sample of some other expeditions that are taking place this spring.

As you would expect, Lhotse (8516 m/27,940 ft) is a popular target for climbers once again this year. The peak, which is located just next door to Everest, shares the same route much of the way. Climbers make the approach along the South Side of the mountain with the paths diverging after Camp 3. As a result, the climbers share much of the same experience including spending their days in Base Camp, trekking through he Khumbu Icefall and spending their time in Camps 1 and 2. Several of the big commercial expeditions operating on Everest also have smaller teams heading to the summit of Lhotse including the Adventure Consultants and Himex.

The 8481 meter (27,825 ft) Makalu seems to be a popular destination for climbers this spring. It is the 5th tallest mountain on the planet and can be found a short distance to the southeast of Everest. Some of the climbers who are currently on that mountain include Don Bowie, who will be climbing alone, but as he says he won't be solo. He is sharing Base Camp with 15 other people, including Kinga Baranowska. She arrived in BC yesterday and reports two other teams now on site. ExWeb is reporting that young Indian climber Arjun Vajpai is also hoping to bag Makalu this spring. The 19-year old alpinist has already managed to successfully summit Everest, Lhotse and Manaslu, and now he's looking to add another 8000-meter peak to his already impressive resume.
Polish mountaineer Pawel Michalski is reporting in from Dhaulagiri (8167 m/26,795 ft), a massive peak located in central Nepal, not far from Annapurna. He says that the weather has been terrible the past few days, as we've seen on Everest as well. He's been spending his time in Base Camp, waiting for an opportunity to go up, which may actually come today. Reports indicate that the weather improved across the region yesterday which is allowing climbers to get back on the move as they continue their acclimatization process.

Journalist Billi Bierling is once again writing the dispatches for the Himex team but she has returned to the Himalaya this spring for another climb of her own. Over the past couple of years she's managed to knock off both Everest and Lhotse and now she's turning her attention on Nuptse. This 7861 meter (25,791 ft) mountain is less than 2 km from Everest and is another popular peak in the Khumbu Valley. Billi has already had a bout with High Altitude Pulmonary Edema, better known as altitude sickness, and was forced to drop to a lower altitude to recover. She seems to be feeling better now and is moving slowly back up to EBC. Hopefully she'll be okay to continue her climb, but only time will tell if her body has grown accustomed to the thinner air.

That's all for now. I'm sure there are some other excellent expeditions taking place on other mountains. I'll be sure to try to keep up with them and share news of their progress throughout the weeks ahead.

Gear Closet: Scarpa Rapid LT Light Hiking Shoes

Last week I shared my thoughts on the Scarpa Kailash GTX hiking boots, giving them high marks for being durable and comfortable for use in a rugged environments. I liked how those shoes provided plenty of support for long days on the trail and solid traction, even on wet surfaces. This week I take a look at a completely different shoe from Scarpa and come away just as impressed, although for some very different reasons.

The company's Rapid LT is a light hiking shoe that is perfect for those shorter, less demanding days on the trail. While it lacks the high ankle support of the Kailash, it still provides a rugged sole that maintains a solid grip on a variety of surfaces. In fact, I was extremely impressed with how this shoe held its traction on loose rock, wet pavement, muddy trails and slick rocks at the bottom of a small stream.

Lightweight and built for speed, Scarpa designed these shoes for fast peak bagging, speed hikes and to serve as an approach shoe. I personally found their versatility went well beyond that however as I comfortably wore the Rapid LT's mountain biking, casual hiking and just kicking around town. In all cases, my feet were very comfortable and protected no matter where I went, including some rather rocky trails.

I'm the kind of person who prefers his shoes to be a bit on the form fitting side as I find that it helps me to stay well connected to what ever terrain I'm moving through. The Rapid LT definitely falls into that category, so if you have wider feet, you'll definitely want to try them on before you buy. In my case, I really appreciated how they felt on my feet, allowing me to move quicker and with more confidence on the trail. They fit so good in fact that although I haven't tried them in this capacity, I feel they could even be used a rugged trail running shoe.

Constructed from a blend of suede, recycled synthetic leather and a polyester mesh, the Rapid LT's shrug off dirt, scuffs and other potential wear without even slowing down. I'm impressed with how great the shoes still look in spite of the fact that I have been wearing them often and in a host of different capacities. Despite them becoming my favorite new shoe, my pair of Rapid LIT's look like they just came out of the box. Judging from the number of comments I've had while wearing them recently, I'd say they look pretty darn good as well.

As impressed with the Rapid LT's as I've been, I was even more impressed when I learned the cost. These shoes run just $110, which I feel is quite a bargain for something that is this versatile and comfortable to wear. This is the kind of footwear you can take with you on just about any kind of trip, whether you're heading to Europe for a leisurely escape or to Africa for something a bit more wild. It'll also serve as a great shoe for shuffling around Base Camp after you've kicked off your heavier mountaineering boots or when you're speed-hiking the Appalachian Trail. In short, this is the kind of shoe you want in your gear closet no matter where you're headed or what activities you intend to take on.

Video: Trailer For 2012 Gold Rush Expedition Adventure Race

The Gold Rush Expedition Race is one of the toughest adventure races in North America and last year my friend Brian Leitten was on hand to capture the experience on film. Over the weekend he released the first trailer for the full length movie, which you can check out below. It looks like another excellent AR film and if you happen to be in Cincinnati this week, it will be making its debut with a free screening at the University of Cincinnati's MainStreet Cinema. To find out more click here.

Video: Ueli Steck and Simone Moro Check In From Everest

We have another video update from Simone Moro and Ueli Steck today with the two climbers checking in from Everest. From the sounds of things, the climb is going well thus far as they have been up to Camp 2 already, spent a couple of nights there acclimatizing and then returned to BC for a break. This is the first time these two very talented alpinists have climbed together, so they are still getting to know one another and finding out how they will best work together. According to Ueli, that process is going well and they are in sync in their approach to the mountain.

The video also includes some nice shots of the Khumbu Icefall and other parts of the trek up to Camp 2. Good stuff from our friends at EpicTV.

Everest 2013: Snowstorms Disrupt Acclimatization Schedule

If there is one thing that we're learning so far this season on Everest, it is that all schedules are subject to change at any given time. There have already been a number of adjustments and changes to plans this spring, but this weekend the teams got another reminder that Mother Nature dictates when they can and can't move up the mountain. A snowstorm on Sunday kept several teams grounded in Base Camp on the South Side while other teams already up in Camp 1 were forced to abandon their plans to go higher. The snowfall is good for the mountain of course, but it isn't making things easy for the climbers who need to put in some work at altitude prior to the start of their summit pushes.

Fortunately, we're still several weeks away from the main summit push and the Sherpas are still busy fixing ropes up the slopes. They aren't likely to complete that work until sometime in early-May, with summit days not expected to start until mid-May or so. At the  moment, there is plenty of time for everyone work in their acclimatization rotations, even if their schedules are a bit disrupted.

The IMG squad had their groups spread out from BC to Camp 2 over the weekend, but the snow kept them grounded. They reported as much as six inches fell on the higher camps (other teams indicate accumulation was closer to a foot!) and as a result, everyone –including the Sherpas– took a snow day yesterday to rest and let things settle. Each of the teams will be back on the move today, with some returning to Base Camp, while others venture up to C1 and C2 for the first time.

The RMI team was one of those who had their plans altered by the weather. They had hoped to climb up to Camp 2 just to "tag" it on Saturday, but with conditions poor they elected to stay at Camp 1 an extra day before proceeding back down to BC yesterday. That descent was a bit of a challenge as the fresh snow forced the climbers to break trail but it also covered most of the crevasses, which is unnerving to say the least. Everyone got back down in one piece however and are now back in BC and enjoying the comforts of that location.

The Peak Freaks checked in from Camp 2 yesterday where their acclimatization process was proceeding along nicely. They intended to spend the night there again last night before heading up to the Lhotse Face today. They'll just climb to that point to scout the route and get the team use to the thinner air. If everything goes according to plan, they'll then descend to C1 for another night on the mountain before going back to Base Camp tomorrow.

That may not be possible however, as the Adventure Consultants are reporting that their Sherpa team descended from C2 to BC today and reported waste-deep snow for much of the way, particularly in the area around Camp 1. All of that fresh powder made for a slower descent, requiring the Sherpas to spend 8 hours coming down safely. That's about twice the normal amount of time it would take. With more snow in the forecast for tomorrow, the AC squad is staying in place for now.

The situation isn't much different on the North Side of the mountain at the moment either. Edita Nichols, climbing with the Altitude Junkies, checked in from Interim Base Camp yesterday where she reported that everything was going well but snow was falling there too. The plan was for the team to head up to Advanced Base Camp today, but they were going to wait and see how much snow was dumped on the route before they decided. They may elect to stay put as well before going up tomorrow.

This update is starting to run a bit long, so I'll wrap it up with a note that ten-time Everest summiteer Kenton Cool has returned to the mountain for his attempt at an 11th opportunity to stand on top of the world. He arrived in South Side Base Camp over the weekend and has expressed his desire to be there to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Hillary and Norgay's first ascent. Aside from that, we don't know if he has anything special planned for the year other than making another climb of the mountain he loves dearly. You may recall that last year Kenton went to the summit with a gold medal to help celebrate the London Games.

That's all for now. We'll have to wait to see if the weather will allow the teams to get back on the move again starting tomorrow. Right now, it seems there is a lot of snow falling on Everest.