Alan Arnette To Climb K2 To End Alzheimers

Alan Arnette has officially announced that he will be attempting K2 later this year as part of his ongoing effort to raise funds for Alzheimer's Research. Alan gave us all a hint of this expedition on social media last week, but has now confirmed his plans to take on the second highest, and arguably the most difficult, mountain in the world this summer.

Regular readers of this blog know that Alan is the go to source in terms of following expeditions climbing Everest. His insights into what is happening on that mountain are wonderful, and he often shares personal stories from his four expeditions to the tallest mountain on Earth. He has also climbed several other 8000 meter peaks, including Shishapangma, Broad Peak, and Cho Oyu.

Alan will depart for Pakistan and the Karakoram in late June, and will spend July and August climbing K2. For those of us who enjoy following the progress of mountaineering expeditions, this is great news, as we'll likely get the most comprehensive coverage of the mountain that we've ever seen.  While on his expeditions, Alan always does an excellent job of sharing the experience, and I suspect this one will be no different.

At 8611 meters (28,251 ft) in height, K2 is second only to Everest in terms of height. But the mountain is far more difficult and dangerous to climb. In most seasons, only a handful of summits – if any – occur. Nicknamed "the Savage Mountain," it is also one of the most deadly. The summit-to-fatality rate hovers around 25%.

Alan promises more information on the climb will be released next week, on May 7. But he has posted a brief survey for his supporters asking them for insights into why they follow him on his website and social media, and what they "get" from his mountaineering coverage. The responses to this survey will help Alan tailor his content while on K2, and develop a good plan for his on going efforts to raise funds for Alzheimer's research.

Obviously I am looking forward to following Alan's expedition this summer. It will give us excellent insights into a K2 climb. Expect to hear a lot more about this adventure in the days and weeks ahead.

Good luck Alan! Climb on!

2014 Piolets d'Or Winners Announced

This past weekend, the 2014 winners for the Piolets d'Or were announced. Often referred to as the "Oscars of Mountaineering" the awards are given out annually to the climbers that pull off the most inspiring and pioneering climbs from the previous year. A jury of accomplished mountaineers judge the nominees based on a number of criteria, not the least of which is respect for the sport and the ability to push it in new directions. The award itself is appropriately enough, a golden ice axe.

There were three winners this year including Canadians Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted for their impressive first ascent of K6 West, a 7040 meter (23,097 ft) peak located in the Karakoram. The duo went up a new route along the Northwest Face that was both highly technical and physically demanding. The third award went to Swiss climber Ueli Steck, for his solo summit of Annapurna, in which he went from Advanced Base Camp to the top, and back, in a mere 28 hours. That expedition was amongst the most audacious that the mountaineering community has seen in recent years, and even the amazing Steck admitted that it pushed him to his vary limits.

Ueli's win was not without some controversy. As I reported last week, there are some who feel that he hasn't provided sufficient proof of an actual summit, since there are no photos (he lost his camera in an avalanche on the ascent), nor GPS data to back up his claims. Ueli's teammates say they did see him less than 200 meters below the summit however, and even the Sherpas on the expedition back up his claims. The jury for the Piolets d'Or ignored that controversy however, and wisely awarded Steck the prize.

Congratulations to the winners. All three men are very deserving of this honor.

Video: Mountain Men: The Ghosts of K2

YouTube is a treasure trove of classic BBC climbing films. Case in point, this fantastic video on the history of climbing K2. It is almost 50 minutes of footage on the second highest peak in the world and some would argue the hardest to climb. So put your feet up, kick back and enjoy this one. It'll give you even more respect for the Savage Mountain.

The Rest of Everest Episode 197: Tales From The Tent

Over the weekend a new episode of the Rest of Everest was released, continuing this season's expedition which has left Broad Peak for the slopes of K2. As is typical on these big mountain expeditions, weather dictates when the team can move and that is certainly the case here. The team, confined to its tent, waits for an opportunity to move up. This is a good example of what life is like on an expedition to the Himalaya or Karakoram where sometimes all you can do is sit in the tent and hope that a weather window will eventually open.

Movie Review: The Summit

In the summer of 2008 the mountaineering world was shocked at the events that unfolded on K2, the second tallest mountain in the world at 8611 meters (28,251 ft). Over the course of a few days, running from July 31 to August 2, a total of 11 people died on the mountain, most following a successful summit bid. In the months that followed, many stories of heroism and survival followed, as did a bit of controversy, as the climbers, along with the rest of the world, attempted to figure out just what happened.

The events that took place on K2 during that fateful season are the subject of a new film entitled The Summit, which as been in theaters for the past week. Over the weekend I finally got the opportunity to catch this powerful documentary and although I went into it knowing most of what happened, I still found it to be extremely tense and enthralling.

For those who aren't familiar with the story, on July 31, 2008 a large group of climbers moved up K2 amidst great weather on a summit bid. Over the course of the following days, a series of events led to the worst tragedy that the mountain has ever seen. Everything from logistical errors to late summits conspired to put the climbers in danger, but the situation was made all the worse when a large serac hanging over a portion of the mountain known as the Bottleneck, collapsed down the face, sweeping away the fixed ropes that the teams would need to descend. Some managed to down-climb without the ropes, others fell to their death. By the time the dust had settled, 11 people were killed and several more were injured or suffering from exposure.

The film does a good job of blending actual footage from the 2008 season with scenes that were reenacted for dramatic effect. Director Nick Ryan fills time between those scenes with interviews with the actual survivors, each of whom shares their own very personal experiences from those difficult days on the mountain.


Over the course of the film's 1 hour, 40 minute run time, the tale unfolds in stilted fashion. At times the main focus is on what exactly happened on those disastrous few days but numerous flashbacks to weeks – and in some cases years - earlier help to fill in some gaps. Much of that information provides context and history on the mountain and the climbers, but there were times when it felt shoehorned in to add padding. This was especially true of the scenes that featured legendary Italian climber Walter Bonatti, who was there to discuss the first successful climb of the mountain in 1954. But because his tale isn't told very well, his presence in the film probably left some audience members wondering exactly why he was in the film.

Because I wrote extensively about the tragedy back when it happened, I had a good idea of what went down before I ever set foot in the theater. Still, The Summit did put everything into perspective as the story more-or-less unfolded in chronological order. It helps to put the perspective exactly what happened, which essentially can be broken down to being a series of unfortunate events. There wasn't one or two big mistakes that you could point to that led to the disaster, but instead it was several small choices and decisions that were eventually exasperated by the collapse of the serac.

If you have followed the story over the years, you probably know that some controversy erupted after the fact due to shifting stories by Italian climber Marco Confortola. One of the casualties on the mountain that day was Ger McDonnell, an Irish climber who was much loved in the mountaineering community. In the aftermath of the K2 disaster, Confortola said he and McDonnell attempted to help injured Korean climbers down the mountain but due to exhaustion and the lack of fixed lines, they were unable to help. Marco then claimed that he tried to get Ger to go down together, but he instead inexplicably turned back up the mountain, where he died. McDonnell's friends and family don't believe that is the case however, as they have asserted that the Irishman would have stayed to help the injured climbers. They suspect that he was there, with the Koreans, and that Confortola abandoned him and went down on his own. It was later reported that McDonnell was seen being swept up in another ice collapse.

What really happened that day will remain a mystery, as Confortola is sticking with his story – at least for now. But the film seems to have two agendas, the first is to tell the story of the tragedy and the second is to clear McDonnell's name. It succeeds to a degree in both areas.

So, is The Summit worth seeing in the theater? If you're a mountaineering junkie, then I'd say without a doubt. It puts into context the events that took place on K2 five years ago and fills in some gaps of the story. It also allows us to see the mountaineers that were there in a very real, human light. Watching Ceclia Skog talk about the final moments of her husbands life was incredible moving for example.

I do think the film does a good job of explaining most things for non-climbers to absorb what is happening as well, although it probably won't shed any clarity on why mountaineers go to these big, dangerous mountains in the first place.

It is difficult to say that you actually "like" a film like this one. After all, it is about the real life deaths of 11 climbers. Still, it is easy to recognize that it is a well made documentary that treats the subject matter with respect and reverence. It is a also a powerful film that will stay with you after you've left the theater, which is exactly what it is meant to do I suppose.

Find out more at the film's official website, including where it is showing near you.

The Rest of Everest Episode 195: The Broad Peak Summit Push

The Rest of Everest returns this week with a new episode that is sure to please long time fans and armchair mountaineers alike. The team of climbers on Broad Peak have launched their summit bid and are on their way up to Camp 3 with good weather conditions, but as always in the big mountains things don't always go as expected. As is typical with the Rest of Everest, this is a fantastic glimpse of what happens on a major expedition to the Himalaya where teamwork, patience and persistence are rewarded.

Video: Documentary On The First Winter Ascent Of Broad Peak

In March of this year, the Polish climbing team of Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek completed the first winter ascent of of Broad Peak, a mountain in Pakistan's Karakoram range that stands 8051 meters (26,414 ft) in height. After topping out, Berbeka and Kowalski were separated from their partners on the descent and ended up disappearing on the mountain. What happened to them remains a mystery. The video below is a half-hour long documentary on that historic and tragic climb. It is in Polish with English subtitles and does a great job of showing what a major expedition – in winter no less – is like on the big mountains. If you're a fan of high altitude mountaineering, you'll definitely want to watch this one.

Video: Trailer For The Summit

August 1, 2008 is one of the deadliest days in mountaineering history. That was the day that a group of climbers attempted to summit K2. 11 of them never made it back down the mountain. The story of that fateful day has been shrouded in mystery to a degree ever since, with the handful of survivors all sharing stories of hardship and difficulty. But a new film entitled The Summit is set to be released on October 4 and it promises to tell the tale of what really happened on the Savage Mountain that awful day five years ago. The trailer for the film can be found below. To say that it looks intense would be a major understatement.

The Rest Of Everest Episode 194: Buring... Stuff

It is Wednesday, which means its time to get your weekly fix of mountaineering in the form of a new episode of The Rest of Everest. This week the team is starting to look at possible summit bids on Broad Peak and after a final acclimatization round, they're back in Base Camp for a rest while keeping their eyes peeled for possible weather windows. And since this video web series doesn't pull any punches in terms of showing what expedition life is like, we get to see how the team deals with full latrines. Lets just say it involves kerosene. You won't find this kind of insight anywhere else!

The Rest of Everest Episode 193: Turn The Lightbulb, Pet The Dog

It's Wednesday which means we're treated to another episode of The Rest of Everest, the absolute best web show focused on high altitude mountaineering. The current season is focused on an expedition to the Karakoram where a team that includes climber Brian Block is first attempting Broad Peak before taking on K2. In this latest episode the team is acclimatized and waiting for an opportunity to make their summit bid once a weather window opens. In the meantime, they find ways to amuse themselves in Base Camp.

Pakistan 2013: Czech Climber Dies On Gasherbrum I

The climbing season in Pakistan is now officially over, but not before it claimed the life of yet another respected alpinist. On Monday it was revealed that Zdenek Hruby, the President of the Czech Mountaineering Federation died on Gasherbrum I after attempting to open a new route to the summit along the Southwest Face. He was 57 years old.

Apparently Zdenek was climbing with is partner Marek Holecek along the new route when they ran into difficult high on the mountain. They decided to abandon their attempt and return to Base Camp but on the descent Hruby slipped and fell a thousand feet, dying instantly. The members of his team gathered in Camp 1 to claim the body, which was then lowered into a crevasse as per his families wishes.

An experienced and talented climber, Zdenek had eight of the fourteen 8000-meter peaks on his resume, including ascents of both Gasherbrum I and II as well as Nanga Parbat. Recently, he and Marek had launched a new climbing project that hey had dubbed "Never Stop Exploring." Their first climb was the successful first ascent of the North Face on Talung Peak, a 7349 meter (24,110 ft) mountain located in the Eastern Himalaya of India. The new route on Gasherbrum I was first attempted in 2009 and they had hoped to take care of unfinished business this year. Unfortunately, the expedition has ended in tragedy.

I think it is safe to say that the entire mountaineering community will be happy to put the summer season in Pakistan behind us. It has been an incredibly tough year in the Himalaya and Karakoram. We were all shocked when 11 people were killed by armed gunmen in BC on Nanga Parbat. Later we said goodbye to Polish climbing legend Artur Hajzer, who perished on Gasherbrum I as well, only to lose Marty and Denali Schmidt on K2 a few weeks later. Add Zdenek to the list and this has been an incredibly costly season indeed.

My condolences to Zdenek's family and friends in this time of need.

The Rest of Everest Episode 192: Jenga!

Following a brief hiatus, The Rest of Everest video podcast has returned this week taking us back to Broad Peak where the expedition is ongoing. This week we get invited to a party in Base Camp, which turns to a raucous affair, before the teams start heading back up the mountain at last. As always, the video is a great look at life on the mountain, both while climbing and while waiting for an opportunity to press ahead.

Mission 14: Climbing The World's Highest Peaks In Just Two Years

Climbing an 8000-meter peaks is always a significant challenge. It requires skill, dedication and a considerable amount of luck as well. There are 14 mountains on our planet that reach above that lofty height and to date only 31 people have managed to summit them all. Most of those who have climbed these difficult mountains have taken several years to accomplish that feat. Now, once climber hopes to do all of them in just two years time.

47-year old Nick Cienski has announced Mission 14, which he has dubbed "the World's Toughest Expedition." Beginning in 2014 he will launch his attempt to climb all of those big peaks in just 24-months, including Everest, K2 and the always tricky Annapurna. He will begin his quest next winter, although which mountain he'll start with remains to be seen. Nick will  climb using supplemental oxygen and he hopes to set several records along the way, including a new speed record on Everest, which currently stands at 8 hours, 10 minutes and was set by Permba Dorje Sherpa in 2004.

The expedition will be of a truly epic scale. The budge is in excess of $5.6 million and 3780 porters will be used to carry gear, establish camps and fix ropes so that Nick can climb these mountains. No one has ever topped out on more than five 8000-meter peaks in a year. He'll have to do that twice!

Cienski is launching this undertaking not just for setting records however. His goal is to raise awareness of human trafficking in places like Nicaragua and take steps to stamp out that awful activity. He hopes to raise funds for nonprofits that combat the illegal slavery trade.

So, what do you think? Can he do it? It seems like an extremely ambitious expedition, particularly when you have to rely on the always-fickle weather that we find in the Himalaya and Karakoram. One bad storm could put an end to Nick's plans. Considering how temperamental conditions have been on a number of the 8000-meter peaks in the past few years, I'd say he has quite a struggle on his hands.

Stay tuned for more on Mission 14 in the months ahead. If things go according to plan, we should be hearing Nick's name a lot over the next two years. 

Pakistan 2013: Summer Climbing Season Ends

It has been a very long and difficult climbing season in Pakistan punctuated with several tragic accidents and the brutal murders of eleven people in Base Camp on Nanga Parbat. Those events have only made an already difficult year for the mountaineering community even tougher and I'm sure many are eager to put 2013 behind them. While I was away at Outdoor Retailer last week, most of the teams that remained in the Karakoram were busy packing up their gear and making the trek back to Askole where they could catch a ride to Skardu. But not everyone had wrapped up their expeditions for the season and some were still attempting to top out. Now it seems that the season truly is finished as the last of the holdouts pull the plug on their expeditions as well.

Most of the remaining climbing attempts were taking place on Gasherbrum I and II where several teams were hoping to make late summit attempts. Amongst them was Jon Kedrowski, whose team was hoping to top out on GII sometime in the next few days. It turns out that won't be possible as warm conditions have led to unstable snow, while high winds have managed to shut off access to the upper slopes. In his latest dispatch, Jon says that he and his teammates were the only ones left on the mountain but it is too unsafe to make any more attempts, so they will now depart Gasherbrum II without summiting.

According to ExWeb a Czech team was attempting to summit GI last week but there is no word yet on whether or not they were successful. Part of the team was going up the standard route while another group were taking on a new route on the Southwest Face. Whether or not they are still on the mountain remains to be seen, but considering how late in the season we are, it seems likely that they'll be packing for home soon as well.

ExWeb also indicates that there has been some success on Pakistani mountains that aren't above 8000 meters in height as well. For instance, Rafał Sławiński and Ian Welsted managed to top out on K6, a 7040 meter (23,097 ft) peak located in the Masherbrum Range. It is the first ascent of that mountain since it was first climbed by an Austrian team back in 1970. Also, Denis Veretenin and Eugeny Bashkirtsev have managed to scale Nameless Tower, which is part of the very difficult Trango Towers, in a single 1.5 day push The Towers are high altitude rock climbing at its most difficult as they stretch some 6329 meters (20,764 ft) into the air.

That should just about wrap up the Pakistan climbing season for another summer. Once again, K2 went unclimbed this year while too many good men and women payed the ultimate sacrifice in pursuit of the high places of our planet. Lets hope we don't see another year like this one for a very long time.

Pakistan 2013: K2 Claims Two More Lives, Expeditions Cancelled

The climbing season in Pakistan is now coming to a rapid end as it appears that all attempts on K2 have now been cancelled. Summit bids had originally been expected this weekend but poor conditions on the mountain have made it impossible for teams to move forward. Unfortunately, not all of the teams heeded the warning signs and turned back and now two climbers have paid the ultimate price on one of the most dangerous mountains on the planet.

Late last week almost every team on K2 turned back at Camp 2 when they discovered that more than seven feet  (2.1 meters) of snow was blocking the route. Not only would that snow make it extremely difficult to climb any higher but it was also making things very unstable. Avalanches could be seen taking place on the upper slopes and that was enough to force most of the climbers to go back down. But the father and son team of Marty and Denali Schmidt, fresh off a successful summit on Broad Peak, decided to continue up to Camp 3 where they hoped to find less snow and improved route conditions. That wasn't the case however and ExWeb is now reporting that the two men have been killed in an avalanche.

It seems that the Schmidts did indeed manage to reach C3 last Friday as expected and they radioed back to Base Camp indicating that they had settled in for the night. But sometime after their last radio check-in the entire camp was swept off the mountain by a powerful avalanche. This was discovered yesterday when a team of Sherpas climbed up to Camp 3 and discovered that it was completely destroyed. There was no trace of the father and son.

My condolences go out to Marty and Denali's friends and family for their loss. I'm sure this is even more shocking after their fantastic success on Broad Peak a few weeks back.

Even before the sad news of the loss of two of their companions the other teams on K2 had already decided to go home. It seems that when they climbed up to C2 last week most of them saw the writing on the wall and that successful summits weren't going to be in the cards this season. K2 is an incredibly difficult mountain to climb even under the best of circumstances. Throw in unstable conditions and a penchant for avalanches and it just didn't seem like a recipe for success. By Saturday most of the climbers had already started packing their gear and planning their trek back civilization. That will take a few days and they'll now go with heavy hearts for the loss of their companions.

Elsewhere in Pakistan most of the other climbing teams on other mountains are wrapping up their expeditions as well. It has been a season with some good success stories, particularly on the Gasherbrums, Broad Peak and a Nanga Parbat. But it has also been a season of incredible sadness and loss. 11 climbers lost their lives on Nanga Parbat when armed gunmen stormed the camp and killed them execution style. A few weeks later, Polish climbing legend Artur Hajzer was lost while descending Gasherbrum I and three Iranian climbers perished after opening a new route on BP. Just this past weekend we also received word that the search has ended for three missing Spanish climbers on GI as well. Add in the deaths on K2 and you have far too many climbers losing their lives in just a matter of a few weeks in Pakistan. This will be a season that will be long remembered, but unfortunately it will be for all of the wrong reasons.

The mountaineering community will mourn the loss of their friends for years to come. Lets hope we don't see another season like this in our lifetimes.

Pakistan 2013: Search Officially Ends On Broad Peak, Continues On Gasherbrum I

It has been another very difficult week in the mountains of Pakistan where one search operation came to a tragic end, another is on going and a third has saved a life. All the while that these dramas have been unfolding, other teams have been making summit bids, some successful and some not.

Starting on Broad Peak, the search for the three missing Iranian climbers has been officially canceled. Bad weather has moved onto the mountain making it impossible for anyone to go up to 7800 meters (25,590 ft), which is where the men were last believed to have been camped. After more than a week at that altitude – without food and water no less – the climbers' friends and family have decided that it was time to let them go. They are presumed dead at this point.

The three men who have given their lives while opening a new route on BP are: Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi. My sincere condolences to their loved ones in their time of need.

Over on Gasherbrum I the search for missing climbers Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso is still on going at this time. Bad weather has grounded the helicopter and hampered efforts there thus far, but the SAR teams haven't given up hope just yet. The three men topped out on GI last Sunday and were expected to descend to C2 the following day, but no word has been heard from them since. While the outlook is not good, some of the Spanish climbers friends are still holding out hope.

There was some good news from GI yesterday however, as Alfredo Garcia was located on the mountain and assisted down from Camp 3 by Mariano Galvan. Garcia turned back from the summit this past weekend as well but struggled on the descent. He has now gone down to Camp 1 and should be resting there for a time before proceed to Base Camp.

Meanwhile, summit pushes are now underway on both Gasherbrum I and II. Amongst those looking to top out is Jon Kedrowski, whose team should be in position to summit GII later today or tomorrow. Also on the move is Chris Jensen Burke, who fresh off a successful climb on that peak will now maker her way to the summit of GI. It would seem, weather permitting, there is the potential for several summits on these peaks in the next few days.

Finally, the summit push on K2 that was expected to be taking place as I write this has been called off. Poor conditions are to blame for stalling out the attempt which was to coincide with a weather window opening tomorrow. But when the first climbers reached Camp 3 on the mountain they discovered heavy snow higher on the slopes. As much as seven feet (2.1 meters) of snow to be exact. That fresh powder is believed to be unstable and avalanches have been observed higher on the slopes. For now, the teams will retreat, let things settle and regroup again next week.

There is no need to panic just yet on K2. It would have been an early summit had they topped out this weekend as expected. It is not uncommon for climbers to complete their K2 expeditions in the first week or so of August. Hopefully patience and persistence will pay off this year as well.

Pakistan 2013: Hope Fades On Broad Peak, Rescue Operations Underway On GI

The very busy summit season has begun in Pakistan where a number of teams have been successful on their bids to climb the big peaks throughout the region. While those teams celebrate their good fortune and prepare to head home, others are mourning the loss of friends as another team seems to have run into trouble.

We'll start on Broad Peak which has been the site of much drama over the past week. An Iranian team reached the summit on Tuesday, July 16 but ran into trouble on their descent. They spent several days stuck at 7800 meters (25,590 ft) but in radio contact with their friends, who were organizing a rescue operation that would deliver food and water to the three men. The hope was that they could then assist them in coming back down the mountain hopefully saving their lives in the process. On Saturday they lost radio contact with one another and the search parties had no luck in locating their missing compatriots. Helicopters were brought in to assist but bad weather kept them grounded. Now, as the days have dragged on, hope has started to fade for the stranded climbers and as the weather takes a turn for the worse, it appears that the search will have to be called off altogether

This is a sad ending to a story that had started so well. The three men, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi, had completed a new route to the summit of BP, but struggled often on their climb. It seems they became exhausted when even their descent along the normal route proved more difficult than expected. They've now been without food and water, while stuck at altitude, for several days. With bad weather setting in, it seems very unlikely that they are still alive – something that their friends and family are now coming to grips with. My condolences to those that were close to these three men. Their names are added to a list of men and women who have made the ultimate sacrifice in the mountains this year. It has certainly been a costly one.

Over on the Gasherbrums there have been a number of summits over the past few days, including Chris Jensen Burke topping out on GII yesterday. She reports that about a dozen climbers stood on top at roughly the same time. Meanwhile, Jonathan Kedrowski has also set out for the summit and hopes to complete his ascent by Friday or Saturday. He'll be amongst another group of seven or eight climbers who should all be topping out around the same time, weather permitting.

On Gasherbrum I another rescue operation seems to be unfolding at the moment. The Spanish team climbing on that mountain seems to have run into some difficulty on the descent following a successful summit. Xevi Gomez, Alvaro Paredes and Abel Alonso all reached the top of GI a few days ago but are having problems making it back down now. Friends and teammates are on the move there today and hope to reach them soon, then help with getting them safely back down the mountain. Stay tuned for updates on this situation, which is still unfolding.

Finally, it is go time at last on K2. Several teams, including one with both Adrian Hayes and Al Hancock on it, have launched their summit bids today. A weather window is expected to open this coming weekend and everyone wants to be in position to take advantage of the improved conditions if and when they come. If all goes as expected, we could see the first summits of the season as early as Saturday or Sunday. But this is the world's toughest mountain, so we'll just have to wait to see if the climbers can actually find a way to stand on top.

More updates to come as needed. There is a lot of activity right now and the end of the season is almost in sight.

Pakistan 2013: Rescue Operations Continue On Broad Peak, Summits On Nanga Parbat

It was another very busy weekend in the mountains of Pakistan, where teams were on the move once again. The season is starting to wind down at last and some of the climbers were able to take advantage of a weather window to complete their summit bids. Meanwhile, on Broad Peak hope begins to fade as rescue operations continue for the Iranian team that has been stranded at altitude for nearly a week.

We'll start with the news from BP where search and rescue teams continue to look for the three missing Iranian climbers who topped out along a new route last week but ran into trouble on their descent. The three men, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi, first spent three days above Camp 3 just trying to reach the summit and have now reportedly been stuck above 7800 meters (25,590 ft) since last Tuesday when they tried to descend along the normal route. Their teammates have gone up the mountain to try to deliver food and water before attempting to help the climbers down, but so far they have been unable to locate their missing friends.

News of the predicament has spread to other teams in the Karakoram and climbers have come from K2 and other mountains to try to lend a hand. Reportedly helicopters have also been dispatched to help in the search efforts too, but so far there has been no luck in locating the men. The situation is now quite desperate as they were already low on food and water when they called for help late last week. By now they are probably out of food and no longer have fuel to melt snow for water. They are also probably far too weak at this point to continue down themselves. Lets continue to keep these three men – as well as their friends and families – in our thoughts. Hopefully it is not too late to find them and safely get them off the mountain.

Elsewhere there were successful summit bids on several mountains. On Nanga Parbat, the sight of eleven brutal killings earlier in the season, the lone remaining team managed to top out. The Romanian squad, climbing along the Rupal face, put four climbers on the summit on Friday, bringing an end to a tough expedition which was made all the more difficult by lingering fears that another terrorist attack might occur. The team should now be back in Base Camp and preparing to depart for home today.

Meanwhile, over on the Gasherbrums teams have launched summit bids as well. Chris Jensen Burke and her team have left for the summit of GII on Saturday and if successful, they'll return to BC and then make an attempt on GI as well. Carlos Carranzo is attempt GII as well although his latest dispatch says that conditions have taken a turn for the worse there, so we'll have to wait and see how things play out. It may be that teams are already in retreat on that mountain. The Spanish team climbing there found success yesterday however, putting some of the climbers on top of Gasherbrum I, while others rethink their strategy and consider GII instead.

Finally, the schedule on K2 is finally starting to fall into place. It looks like a weather window is set to open on July 27 that will grant access to the summit for several days. In order to take advantage of this stable pattern, teams are now planning to set out from Base Camp on Wednesday of this week so that they can take advantage of this first, and possibly only, weather window of the season. K2 is notoriously tough to climb and the alpinists want to be in a good position to take advantage of any opportunity that they might get. More on that as they launch their summit bids in a few days.

Thins are pretty active in Pakistan at the moment. More news in the days ahead and keep your fingers crossed for the missing Iranians.

Pakistan 2013: Climbers In Trouble On Broad Peak

We're at a crucial stage of the summer climbing season in Pakistan. Most of the teams have now been on their respective mountains for a number of weeks and many have now wrapped up their acclimatization and are making summit bids. That includes an Iranian team on Broad Peak, which has already successfully topped out but is now facing serious problems on their descent.

ExWeb has all of the details on the Iranian team's climb, which began on July 10 with a five man team setting off for the summit along a new route on BP's Southwest Face. The ascent went mostly as planned up to Camp 3 but above that point things started to get extremely difficult. Poor conditions and a rocky route slowed progress to a crawl and the climbers were forced to bivouac for three consecutive nights. On Tuesday, July 16, three members of the team (Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi) reached the summit and then attempted to their descend along the normal route. That is when things took a turn for the worse.

It turns out there were complications with going down along the established route and the three climbers ended up bivouacking above C3 for an additional two nights. Yesterday the climbers called their support team and told them that their tent had been shredded and that they were in desperate need of food and water. Worse yet, one of the members of the team is in poor shape and having problems descending. That prompted the team to spring into action and today a rescue mission is underway with a number of climbers moving up to try to help get the three Iranians down safely. Lets keep our fingers crossed that all goes well. We've lost enough climbers in the mountains already this year.

Broad Peak hasn't been particularly accommodating to climbers this summer as it has also been reported that four Polish climbers have suffered frostbite on their summit bid earlier this week. It isn't clear how bad the frostbite is but it is enough that a helicopter was expected to arrive in Base Camp today to evacuate the four men. That would indicate to me that at least one of them has fairly severe injuries but hopefully they'll all make a full recovery.

Over on Nanga Parbat, the Romanian team climbing the Rupal Face has reached 7500 meters (24,606 ft) and established their High Camp there. If conditions continue to hold out they should make their final summit push this weekend. After the murders that took place in BC on the Diamir Face, this is the only team that remains on the mountain this summer. It would be good to see them successfully top out.

Teams are now on the move on both Gasherbrum I and II with climbers hoping to summit the next few days. The big news on these peaks at the moment is the burial of Polish climbing legend Artur Hajzer, who died on GI back on July 7. Hajzer fell to his death on the Japanese Couloir and his family determined that he would have wanted to be buried on the mountain. That took place a few days ago with the help from a few of his friends. Rest in peace Artur.

According to Jon Kedrowski, four members of his team, all of whom are from Belgium, are now making summit bids on Gasherbrum I. There is a narrow weather window open and while Jon and his guide are waiting for a better opportunity, these four climbers decided to give it a go. If they are successful, they should top out early next week.

Similarly, Chris Jensen Burke has completed her acclimatization on GII and should now be back in BC waiting for a weather window of her own. No word yet on when that might come, but a shift in weater was expected to take place late this week which could provide the opening she and her team needs.

Finally, over on K2 teams have now gone as high as Camp 3 and acclimatizations are proceeding as expected. Most are starting to look at the weather forecasts to see if a five-day window will be coming soon. That's how long they'll need to travel from BC to the summit and then begin their descent back down. Right now, there doesn't appear to be such a window on the horizon, but summits on the "Savage Mountain" often come in late July or early August. Expect more teams to start arriving on the mountain soon however as some will attempt K2 after warming up on one of the other big peaks in the region.

That's all for now. Expect more updates next week following possible summits in the next few days.

Pakistan 2013: Summit Bids Begin And Saying Goodbye To A Legend

While I was away on my own adventure, the climbing season in Pakistan has continued apace. Bad weather caused some delays over the past week and a half, but things are starting to improve now and teams are back on the move. It continues to be a very rough year in the mountaineering community however as another big name perishes in the Karakoram.

A few days ago the sad news was posted to Facebook that Polish mountaineering legend Artur Hajzer died on his descent of Gasherbrum I. There are very few details of what happened but he apparently passed away near Camp 2. His family is still deciding if they want to bring his body home or have it buried on the mountain. Artur was a real trailblazer in terms of climbing in the big mountains and he has been a leader of the climbing scene in Poland for a number of years. He will certainly be missed.

With that sad news out of the way we do get the positive update that the first summit of the summer season in Pakistan has been claimed on Broad Peak. According to Karakoram Climber News, Marty and Denali Schmidt topped out on that mountain yesterday, which was expected to be a big day on BP. No word yet if any other team on the mountain managed to reach the summit as well, but it seems likely that others took advantage of the weather window as well. The father and son team will now turn their attention to K2 with the hopes of a summit on that mountain as well.

Speaking of K2, the mountain is living up to its reputation as being one of the tougher peaks in the world to climb. Poor weather has made it a challenge for everyone so far this summer, but that is typically case in mid-July. Summits don't usually come until early August, so there is still time for progress to be made. Several teams have established Camp 2 on the mountain and with improved weather they are making their way up to C3 this week. More teams will be arriving their soon as they wrap up their efforts on Broad Peak and other peaks used in acclimatization.

The lone remaining team on Nanga Parbat is the Romanian squad on the Rupal Face. They have launched their summit bid as well and depending on conditions could top out as early as tomorrow. Thursday or Friday seems more likely however, so look for this expedition to wrap up within the next few days.

As I get back on my regular posting schedule I'll provide more detailed updates on the progress of the teams. Things are starting to come together now in Pakistan, so we should see more summits in the next week or so. After that, it's on to K2, the crown jewel of the region, if not all of mountaineering.