Alan Arnette To Climb K2 To End Alzheimers

Alan Arnette has officially announced that he will be attempting K2 later this year as part of his ongoing effort to raise funds for Alzheimer's Research. Alan gave us all a hint of this expedition on social media last week, but has now confirmed his plans to take on the second highest, and arguably the most difficult, mountain in the world this summer.

Regular readers of this blog know that Alan is the go to source in terms of following expeditions climbing Everest. His insights into what is happening on that mountain are wonderful, and he often shares personal stories from his four expeditions to the tallest mountain on Earth. He has also climbed several other 8000 meter peaks, including Shishapangma, Broad Peak, and Cho Oyu.

Alan will depart for Pakistan and the Karakoram in late June, and will spend July and August climbing K2. For those of us who enjoy following the progress of mountaineering expeditions, this is great news, as we'll likely get the most comprehensive coverage of the mountain that we've ever seen.  While on his expeditions, Alan always does an excellent job of sharing the experience, and I suspect this one will be no different.

At 8611 meters (28,251 ft) in height, K2 is second only to Everest in terms of height. But the mountain is far more difficult and dangerous to climb. In most seasons, only a handful of summits – if any – occur. Nicknamed "the Savage Mountain," it is also one of the most deadly. The summit-to-fatality rate hovers around 25%.

Alan promises more information on the climb will be released next week, on May 7. But he has posted a brief survey for his supporters asking them for insights into why they follow him on his website and social media, and what they "get" from his mountaineering coverage. The responses to this survey will help Alan tailor his content while on K2, and develop a good plan for his on going efforts to raise funds for Alzheimer's research.

Obviously I am looking forward to following Alan's expedition this summer. It will give us excellent insights into a K2 climb. Expect to hear a lot more about this adventure in the days and weeks ahead.

Good luck Alan! Climb on!

Everest Summit Statistics Updated Ahead Of The Spring Season

The spring climbing season on Mt. Everest is still a little more than a month from getting underway, but already anticipation is starting to build for what promises to be another busy year on the world's highest peak. In preparation for the start of that season, the Himalayan Database – painstakingly maintained by the indomitable Ms. Elizabeth Hawley, was updated at the end of last week, giving us all the latest stats on the Big Hill.

Alan Arnette has taken a look at those numbers and nicely broken them down for us in his latest blog post. According to Ms. Hawley's research, there were 658 official summits of Everest in 2013. Of those, 539 were made from the South Side of the mountain in Nepal, with 119 coming from the North Side in Tibet. Furthermore, 9 of those summits were completed without the use of supplemental oxygen, which obviously remains a rare and impressive feat. Sadly, there were also 8 deaths recorded o the mountain during that time.

The complete history of Everest now stands at 6871 total summits, with 4042 climbers standing at the top of the mountain. As Alan points out, that means that 2739 climbers have summited multiple times. Of those, 4416 came from the Nepali side of the mountain, with 2455 successful climbs from Tibet.

Between 1921 and 2013, a total of 248 people have died on Everest, with 161 of those being westerners and 87 Sherpas. But despite the increasing numbers of climbers on Everest, the mountain continues to get safer. Alan says that since 1990, the number of summits to deaths ratio has dropped to just 3.6%, which is far below what the mainstream media would lead you to believe at times, and not nearly as dangerous as K2 or Annapurna, which Alan points out has a 2:1 death to summit ratio.

This is just scratching the surface of some of the interesting facts that Alan has shared on the mountain. Be sure to head over to his site and read up on Everest. Until the climbers begin to arrive in Kathmandu in another month, thats about all the news we'll have for awhile.

Video: Alan Arnette Presents Summiting Nepal's Manaslu

A few days back I shared details of a live stream of Alan Arnette's presentation of his Summiting Manaslu slideshow that was brought to us courtesy of Jon Miller of the Rest of Everest Fame. The event was your opportunity to not only learn about an 8000 meter climb, but also get to hear Alan speak. It was a fun, interesting experience for sure, and it included a major announcement about a Himalayan expedition that 16-year old Matt Moniz that you'll be hearing a lot about in the weeks ahead. Both spoke at a fundraiser for the dzi Foundation, an organization dedicated to improving the lives people living in Nepal.

If you missed the event, Jon has kindly posted it online so you can watch it for yourself. It contains some great info about climbing Manaslu specifically and 8000 meter peaks in general. The video is more than an hour in length, so get comfortable.

Watch Alan Arnette's Summiting Manaslu Presentation Live On YouTube Tonight!

Last fall, Alan Arnette added another 8000 meter peak to his already impressive resumé when he successfully reached the summit of Manaslu. At 8156 m (26,759 ft) in height, it is the eighth highest mountain in the world and a challenging climb, although not in the same league as some of the other big Himalayan peaks.

Since his return from the climb last October, Alan has been giving a series of talks about the expedition, sharing his insights about climbing in the Himalaya in general and about Manaslu specifically. But unless you live in Colorado, chance are you haven't gotten a chance to see Alan's presentation. That can change tonight, as the slide show is going to be broadcast live over the Internet starting at 6 PM local time, which 8 PM EST/7PM CST.

The event is being broadcast on the Rest of Everest YouTube channel, which you can access by clicking here. This will be a great opportunity to see Alan in action and learn more about climbing in the Himalaya. It should be a fun and interesting experience for sure.

Is it More Important to be Mentally or Physically Tough For Everest?

The spring Everest season may still be a couple of months off, but it is approaching rapidly at the moment. In order to get us ready for the start of what should be another interesting and exciting year on the Big Hill, Alan Arnette continues his pre-season coverage with another excellent blog post about the experience of climbing the tallest mountain on the planet. This time out, he asks the question of whether or not it is more important to be mentally or physically tough.

Alan, who has been on four expeditions to Everest, shares his own personal experiences as he wrestled with the sometimes overwhelming mental and physical challenges. Those experiences helped him to understand what it takes to climb an 8000 meter peak, which goes well beyond simply putting in the work in the gym. He says that it isn't about how strong you are, but about how well prepared.

He also talks about how important it is to keep your body in balance when climbing at higher altitudes. It is a precarious equilibrium with not pushing yourself too hard that you kill your chances of reaching the summit, but still moving at a fast enough pace to safely make it up and down in the allotted time. Your heart and lungs help to keep the body moving, but your mind must overcome self doubt and indecision in order to continue going up.

Everest junkies will find Alan's break down of each stage of an Everest climb to be very interesting. It mentions all of the major milestones of a summit push from the South Side, and indicates the specific challenges that they present. For instance, he says that the trek to Everest Base Camp in the Khumbu Valley is one of the best parts of the climb, as you enjoy a leisurely walk through the Himalaya. But later, when you're on the Lhotse Face, you face a real test of determination in getting up that impossibly vertical wall. He offers similar insights on the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, the South Col and all of he other important steps up to the summit.

We're now about two months away from the start of the teams gathering in Kathmandu. At this point, most are still working on their physical and mental training ahead of the start of their expeditions. Alan's blog postings leading up to the beginning of the season continue to bring excellent insights into what an Everest climb is all about, and while most of us will never be able to attempt such a climb for ourselves, we can get a better understanding of what the climbers go through in these stories.

Want To Get Along With Your Mountain Guide? Alan Arnette Explains How!

Climbing a mountain, even one that isn't nearly as large as you find in the Himalaya, can be a frustrating, nerve wracking affair. If you happen to be on a two-month long expedition, those feelings can be heightened even further. Being able to get along with your teammates is of vital importance of course, but probably even more vital is the ability to get along with your mountain guide. In his latest blog post, Alan Arnette gives us the perspective of both the client and the guide, with the hope that it will bring a bit more understanding between both parties and make any climb much more enjoyable all around.

Alan has been on more than 35 expeditions, many of which have taken him to the Himalaya and lasted for weeks on end. During that time, he has seen just about everything you can imagine. On top of that, his years of reporting on the mountaineering scene, particularly on Everest, lends him a unique perspective of the relationship between clients and guides. In this blog post, he discusses the characteristics of both the "nightmare client" and "nightmare guide," both of which he has witnessed in action.

The point of this article isn't to shame either the guides or climbers. On the contrary, it is meant to foster a little understanding of the perspective of both parties, giving them pause to consider each other's viewpoints on future expeditions. If they each have a little more insight into what the other is thinking or feeling, perhaps they'll be able to work more cohesively with one another moving forward.

If you're planning a big expedition in your future, the article is definitely worth a read. But even if you're just an an armchair mountaineer, the story offers some genuine perspective of what happens on a big climb. As usual, Alan does a great job of setting the scene and giving his readers good insights into an expedition to the Himalaya.

This is another of Alan's pre-Everest 2014 blog posts. Last week he also broke down the costs of a climb on the highest mountain on the planet. If you missed that one, it is worth a read as well. You'll find it here.

Everest 2014: The Cost Of Climbing Everest

We may be just a week into 2014, but it is never too early to start thinking about the spring Everest climbing season. As many of you already know, year-in and year-out, one of the best sources of information on all things having to do with Everest is Alan Arnette. Each year, Alan provides excellent insights into what it takes to climb the mountain, while providing regular updates on conditions on both the North and South sides, while closely tracking the locations of the numerous teams attempting to scale its impressive slopes. Over the past few years, Alan has kicked off his annual coverage by first giving us a run down of just how much it costs to undertake an Everest expedition, and each year it is an interesting read. Yesterday, he posted the 2014 version of that report, and for those unfamiliar with the expenses of a major climb in the Himalaya, it can sometimes cause sticker shock.

As usual, the costs for climbing Everest have increased on both the North and South side of the mountain this year. But what's different for 2014 is that while the guide services at the high end of the spectrum have mostly held steady, it is the low-end companies that seem to have hiked their rates for 2014. He is also quick to point out that this type of expedition is not one in which you want to go cut-rate, but with prices ranging from $30,000 - $100,000 it can be confusing to decide to who to go with.

Alan breaks down the costs into different categories, giving readers estimates on climbing solo vs. as part of an organized team. He also discusses the differences in teams as well, which include Sherpa supported climbs, Sherpa guided expeditions and Western guided options. Each of those provides a different level of service, with some willing to spend less to do more on their own, while others pay considerably more for a safer, more full-service attempt on the summit.


With guided climbs costing in the neighborhood of $40,000 to $65,000, it is sometimes tough to see where the cost differences come from. Alan points out that sometimes it is just in the form of profit to help pay the overhead required to operate on the mountain, but it also often comes at the expense of services such as Sherpa support on the upper slopes or no bottled oxygen included in the price.

One of the more interesting elements of Alan's report is his comparison chart of the companies that operate on Everest. It gives the name of the organization, average team size, types of guides, previous summit success and of course the costs. The prices range from as low as $28,450 for an expedition on the North Side with Summit Climb, to $89,000 with AlpenGlow on the South Side that includes Western guides.

If you've ever considered climbing Everest yourself, then Alan's Cost to Climb guide is a must read. It'll give you all the information you need for selecting the right guide service for your own climb, while weighing in all the factors to think about, including safety considering, which route to take, which company to go with and much more.

It also serves to get the adrenaline flowing for a new Everest climbing season. For fans of the mountain, April can't come fast enough!

Himalaya Fall 2013: More Summit Bids Underway On Manaslu

Despite the fact that a number of commercial teams have wrapped up operations for the fall climbing season in the Himalaya, some climbers still have work ahead of them and are hoping to nab summits before they head home. This is the case on Manaslu in particular, which has been an active mountain so far this fall. It seems the weather there has improved over the past day or two and a new window is set to open. That has launched a new round of summit bids with climbers hoping to top out in the next few days.

ExWeb is reporting that the remaining teams on Manaslu left Base Camp on Sunday with the hopes of taking advantage of good weather that is suppose to start today and run into the weekend. Amongst those teams is an expedition from the British Army and a group led by Adventure Peaks. Those squads are due into Camp 3 today and are looking to go up to the summit either tomorrow or Thursday. There are another couple of teams that are still in BC as well after having just wrapped up their acclimatization rotations. They'll hope for another window next week as well.

While we're on the subject of Manaslu, Alan Arnette has returned from Nepal and posted his final trip report to his blog. It is a detailed and lengthy read that is definitely worth your time as it not only shares good information about a climb on this particular mountain but excellent insights into a Himalayan expedition in general. Alan also posted the video below which will take you through the climb as well, starting in the busy, chaotic streets of Kathmandu and going all the way to the summit of the mountain.

Over on Shishapangma, ExWeb is also reporting that teams are giving up their summit bids due to the high danger of avalanches on that particular mountain. Heavy snows on the upper slopes have made things dangerous and unstable, which has forced all the climbers to abandon their attempts. There were only a couple of summits on Shisha this fall and it has been one of the more elusive summits of the season.

Things aren't looking great on Lhotse either where high winds and snow continue to hit the mountain. The Italian squad remains in Base Camp even as the clock ticks towards the end of their expedition. The two climbers have already sought an extension but at the moment things are not looking good. They have had little chance to acclimatize at altitude and there is still a lot of work to be done before they could even think of attempting the summit or skiing back down. Their reports indicate that winds are howling at 80-90 km/hr (50-56 mph) in BC and are worse higher up the slope. For now, they sit and wait for an opportunity.

That's it for today. Hopefully more new soon!

Himalaya Fall 2013: Second Round of Summit Bids Underway

After successful summits across the Himalaya last week a brief period of bad weather fell across much of the region. But this week things are clearing up and a new weather window is seems to be opening. These improved conditions are allowing a second round of summit pushes as climbers on various mountains make their move to top out. Over the next few days we should see more summits as the fall climbing season begins to heat up once again.

One of the most active mountains during last week's round of summit bids was Manaslu, where it is estimated that approximately 60 climbers topped out. Amongst them was Alan Arnette who posted a brief account of his summit bid on his blog. Alan calls the summit of Manaslu the scariest spot he has ever been in his climbing career, which includes Everest, thanks in no small part to its narrow approach ridge which had a drop of over 3000 feet (914 meters) on either side. As always, Alan provides good insights into climbing on the big peaks, but this dispatch was a bit short due to technical issues. He promises a longer account of the climb once he has returned home.

The work isn't wrapped up on Manaslu just yet however as more teams are making their summit bids this week. A number of international climbers, including teams from Romania, Spain and Italy, amongst others, are headed to Camp 3 today and should be looking to top out on Thursday of this week provided the weather remains cooperative. As the 8th highest peak in the world, Manaslu provides plenty of opportunities for sharpening mountaineering skills for preparation for a higher peak, such as Everest, in the spring.


On Cho Oyu more teams have begun their push as well. The Amical Alpin squad has moved up to Camp 3 where they are joined by a group led by Adventure Peaks. If all goes according to plan, both teams should make their final summit bids tomorrow.

Similarly a second round of summit attempts are underway on Shishapangma as well. 74-year old Carlos Soria is in Camp 3 today and should make his push to the top tomorrow or the next day. Rich Emerson of the Ski Shishapangma expedition has launched his second summit bid on the mountain as well and hopes to top out tomorrow or Thursday. If conditions are right he'll also make a ski descent too.

Over on Lhotse things are starting to develop. The Korean team that joined Italians Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli on that mountain have begun building a makeshift route through the Khumbu Icefall, which should makes things easier and safer on that section of the climb. That team has also established Camp 1 and has spent some time their acclimatizing. For their part, the Italians have returned from Gorak Shep and are back up the mountain as well. They should be in Camp 2 today as they work towards getting their bodies ready for their own summit push to come. If they are successful, they also hope to ski back down the mountain.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie have checked in from Annapurna. In a very brief message Ueli says that he went as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) last Friday but weather conditions shifted and heavy snow began to fall. As of this dispatch he and Don were back in ABC and waiting for conditions to approve. Hopefully we'll get more news soon.

That's all for today. Hopefully we'll have more news on summits tomorrow.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summits On Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma!

It was a very productive day in the Himalaya yesterday as the projected weather window remained open long enough for teams to top out on several mountains. That window is expected to slam shut today with high winds and snowstorms expected across the region. But the climbers who arrived early in the season, worked hard to complete the acclimatization process and patiently waited for their opportunity were rewarded with successful summit bids. 

We'll start on Manaslu where the majority of the action took place yesterday. The Altitude Junkies confirmed that their team started to top out at about 8:30 AM local time yesterday morning. First to the top were Pasang Nima Sherpa and team leader Phil Crampton, but not far behind was the rest of the crew that included Alan Arnette, whom I'm sure will pass along a detailed account of the summit push in the next day or two As they approached the top, the final 100 meters of rope still needed to be fixed and Pasang Nima joined with the Sherpas from the Himex squad to complete that work. Russell Brice's team had a good day on the mountain too, putting 13 of their clients on top and a total of 29 climbers overall. Reportedly it was a good day on the summit with warm temperatures and calm winds. Both teams report that everyone has now descended safely and after spending the night in Camp 1 they should arrive back in BC today. 

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that there have been summits on Cho Oyu as well. Four climbers topped out there at around 12:40 PM yesterday afternoon. That group included American climber Adrian Ballinger, Russian Sergey Baranov, Passang Bhote Sherpa and Namygal Sherpa. The two westerners than proceeded to make a ski descent and were back in Camp 2 early in the afternoon. ExWeb also indicates that there are a number of other teams poised to make summit bids today before the change in weather arrives. 

Apparently there has also been a successful summit on Shishapangma as well. Details are still a bit light but it is being reported that Hungarian climber Lestak Erzsebet reached the summit of that mountain yesterday and then safely returned to ABC. If we get more details on the climb I'll be sure to share them.

While we're on the subject of Shishapangma, 74-year old Carlos Soria is still in Base Camp there and keeping a close eye on the weather. The hope is that once the current weather system passes a new window will open giving the teams enough time to make their push. That could come as early as next week, but for now everyone sits and waits. 

Finally, there hasn't been any updates from Ueli Steck or Don Bowie in about a week but presumably they have reached Annupurna Base Camp now and are setting up shop for the climb ahead. These two talented and very experienced mountaineers will likely go to work very quickly and I wouldn't be surprised to hear them start their acclimatization rotations immediately, weather permitting. Hopefully once they are settled in we'll start to get regular updates on their progress. 

I want to offer a big congratulations to all the climbers who were able to summit over the past couple of days. Job well done all around and I'm glad to hear that it seems everyone got up and down safely. 

More updates to come in the days ahead. Things will likely quiet down now for a few days while the weather moves in and out of the Himalaya. After that, there will be a host of climbers ready to make their move. 

Himalaya Fall 2013: Weather Window Opens Across The Himalaya, Summits In Sight

As noted yesterday, the first real summit push of the fall Himalayan climbing season is now underway and we wait anxiously for word on the whereabouts of the numerous teams that are currently on the move. The weather forecast across the region seems favorable, at least for a few more days, and the climbers are now getting themselves into position to make a push to the top of their respective mountains within the next day or two. After that, it seems the window will close once again and those who aren't able to take advantage of it will wait for their turn in the days ahead. For now though, there is quite a bit of activity taking place.

Yesterday I noted that Rich Emerson and Dave Etherington of the Ski Shishapangma expedition were planning on making their summit bid. The weather was reportedly quite good and it was thought that they would go to the top, then attempt a ski descent. There has been no update on their progress since then however so it is unclear weather or not they did indeed summit and ski or if they ended up descending for some reason. We'll have to wait and watch their Facebook page for updates on their progress.

On Manaslu the summit push is in full swing with most expecting to top out tomorrow. As reported yesterday, the Altitude Junkies squad is amongst them with Alan Arnette part of that team. It seems that the Himex climbers have also joined the summit party and their team is on the way up as well. The forecast says that there should be little wind on Manaslu tomorrow, which should give the teams perfect conditions to top out. After that, rain and snow are expected on the mountain with the potential for some heavy powder to fall at higher altitudes. At the moment, as many as 60 climbers are in Camp 4 and waiting to launch their final push.


According to ExWeb, the summit bids have begun on Cho Oyu as well with the first climbers possibly topping out as early as tomorrow as well. The forecast there is the same as elsewhere: good conditions through Wednesday with heavy snow moving in afterwards. Considering that no one has been above Camp 2 yet on the mountain, it is unclear what conditions will be like on the way to the summit, but after tomorrow they are expected to get a whole lot more challenging. Amongst those hoping to top out are American mountain guide Adrian Ballinger and Russian climber Sergei Baranov.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli are back in Base Camp on Lhotse where they have enjoyed a warm shower and some much needed rest. They intend to descend to Gorak Shep for a bit of a break and to get an Internet connection to post some more detailed updates. The boys are no longer alone in BC however as a Korean team has arrived in the past day or two and has begun to set up shop. It is unclear at this point whether or not the Koreans will be attempting Lhotse as well or if they are there to make a rare attempt on Everest in the fall. We'll just have to wait to see what exactly their objectives are.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie should now be settled into Base Camp on Annapurna and will most likely be scouting the route that they'll take to the summit. There have been no updates yet from the dynamic duo but it is their hope that they'll be able to find success on one of the world's toughest mountains where both have had their struggles in the past. Even if they don't manage to climb Annapurna this fall however, it is good to see Ueli back in the Himalaya following the unfortunate events of this past spring.

That's all for now. Hopefully my next update will contain good news of successful summits.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Alan Arnette Checks In From Manaslu

The fall climbing season is underway in the Himalaya but so far there hasn't been a lot of news to report. Most of the teams are in and out of Kathmandu and are either en route to the respective base camps or are already getting settled. Our friend Alan Arnette is always timely with his blog posts however and he checked in earlier today from BC on Manaslu (8156 m/26,759 ft) where it sounds like things are off to a good start.

Alan and his team arrived on the mountain last Saturday and spent the first few days establishing their campsite, sorting gear and getting acclimated. The trek into the site took ten days to complete so everyone was anxious to get settled and prep for the work ahead. The climbers get their own tents of course but the dining tent serves as a common area while a communications tent helps to keep everyone in touch with friends and family back home via slow and costly satellite Internet connections.

After a busy few days in Base Camp, the team held their Puja ceremony on Tuesday of this week. Before anyone begins to head up the mountain they must first go through the Puja, which asks the mountain spirits to protect the climbers as they being their ascent. It is an important ritual when climbing in the Himalaya and the Sherpas wouldn't dare go higher than Base Camp without first taking part in such a ceremony.

With the Puja out of the way, yesterday Alan and his companions set off for Camp 1. It was a quick up and back to that point on the mountain, taking just five hours to make the round trip. This is the first stage of the all important acclimatization process which will likely next result in the team spending a night at C1 or proceeding up to Camp 2, which has already been established.


It hasn't been all hard work so far however. Alan reports that after getting back to BC the Sherpas from his team (He's climbing with the Altitude Junkies) took on the Sherpas from the Himex squad in a game of volleyball. Himex has a court set up in their camp and it was good fun for all to cheer on their companions. Personally I can't imagine playing volleyball at that altitude but the Sherpas are far stronger than I am at those heights.

For now, the climbers will rest again in BC before heading back up next week. It looks like they'l go all the way to Camp 2 on that rotation so expect to hear more soon. From the sounds of things, conditions on the mountain are good so far and the weather has been cooperative if a bit dreary. Hopefully that bodes well for the days to come.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Teams Gathering In Kathmandu

It is hard to believe that the summer has nearly passed and it is time for the fall Himalayan season to begin. As I write this, teams are now gathering in Kathmandu for the start of the season, which is much less active than the spring but still draws hundreds of climbers to Nepal and Tibet. Many come to sharpen their skills ahead of an attempt on Everest next year but plenty visit the Himalaya during the fall to take advantage of a more relaxed, quieter atmosphere.

At the moment, the Himalaya are still shrouded in the storms that come along with the monsoon season.  Those rains will pass away soon however, opening up safe access to the big mountains in the days ahead. Some of the more popular summits for the fall include Makalu, Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. Everest sees few visitors this time of year, although there are occasionally a few teams who attempt a fall summit on the world's highest peak.

Our friend Alan Arnette will be atempting Manaslu this fall and today he'll begin the six-day trek beginning in Sama Goan. But before he left Kathmandu, Alan and his team met with none other than Ms. Elizabeth Hawley, the Grand Dame of the Himalaya herself. He wrote a great blog post about that encounter a few days ago, which you can (and should!) read here. He has entitled the post "A Morning with a Legend," which seems apt considering Ms. Hawley's stature in the mountaineering community.

For those who don't know who Ms. Hawley is, she is pretty much the authority on Himalayan climbing. For decades she has kept a definitive record on who climbed which mountains and generally a summit isn't official until she says so. She has a reputation for a keen mind, a sharp tongue and a long memory. Even now, in her 89th year, she can still make hardened men tremble under her scrutiny. She is a fascinating woman and it seems like Alan's encounter with her was a memorable one.

A number of the teams are now en route to their respective mountains and we will soon start to get reports on their progress. Typical of Himalayan expeditions they'll first begin with the acclimatization process over the coming weeks before waiting for weather a window to open for a potential summit bid. While it won't be nearly as active as it is in the spring, it should still be an interesting time in the big mountains.

Stay tuned for regular updates as expeditions get underway.

Everest News: Commentary On New Regulations And Sherpas Speak Out On Spring Brawl

August isn't typically the time of year that get much news on Everest. After all, the spring climbing season is well behind us and the much quieter fall season hasn't begun yet. But today we have a couple of Everest-centric stories worth noting and considering the rather large shadow the mountain casts over the mountaineering world, they are both worth sharing.

First up, Alan Arnette has weighed in with his thoughts on the new regulations that Nepal will be instituting next year. Those regulations include a permanent government presence in Base Camp, a ban on the use of helicopters in the region and a requirement that all attempts at setting a record on the mountain be declared ahead of time. Alan notes that while it is good to see Nepal making any kind of effort to bring a bit of order to Everest, he has his doubts as to whether or not these rules will actually accomplish anything or will even be enforced at all.

One of the more troubling aspect about the news that more regulations are coming to the world's tallest mountain is that aside from a BBC article on the changes, there has been little other information on the topic. The Nepali government hasn't even issued a press release or sent out any written confirmation of the rules changes. Worse yet, Alan says that none of the new regulations do anything to address the biggest challenge - overcrowding.

I have to say that I agree with Alan's assessment of the situation and had my own reservations about the new rules when they were announced. Nepal isn't all that well known for following through with their government oversight to begin with and adding yet more bureaucracy  probably isn't the answer. The fact that these new rules don't help in controlling the crowds leads me to believe that officials there are simply burying their heads in the sand so as to not disrupt the the cash cow that Everest has become for them. More people on the mountain means more permits sold, which of course leads to more cash in the country's coffers.

Meanwhile, Outside magazine has an interview with a Sherpa who was on Everest this past spring and was a witness to the incidents that led to a brawl between other Sherpas and European climbers Ueli Steck, Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith. The conflict began up near Camp 3 at 23,000 feet (7010 meters) when the well-known trio attempted to cross the ropes that were being fixed at the time. Reportedly they dislodged a piece of ice that struck a Sherpa working below. This of course angered the other members of the rope-fixing team who had warned the three westerners to stay off the ropes. The lead Sherpa pulled the team off the job and ordered them to go down to Camp 2. When Simone, Ueli and Jonathan arrived back at that point a few hours later, all hell broke loose.

Tashi Sherpa, who works for International Mountain Guides and was the subject of this interview, paints a similar story from what we've heard in the past but with a few key differences. For instance, he claims that the crowd that approached Simone and Ueli in Camp 2 was nowhere near 100 people as many reports have indicated. He also says that Simone in particular was confrontational and abusive with the Sherpas involved. His actions, according to Tashi, directly led to increased tension between the parties involved.

The interview is a good one and comes across as being honest and forthright. The Sherpa, spoke to a reporter in Kathmandu and talked openly about a growing resentment amongst Sherpas towards western climbers. This is a result of them doing most of the work on Everest and getting little credit for the role they play. As the Nepali climbers have gotten more educated and self assured, they are now starting to ask why the stories about their climbs aren't included with news of westerners summiting the mountain. After all, without the Sherpas, very few people would actually be able to climb Everest.

I found the interview to be very interesting and credible. it is good to get the story from the perspective of the Sherpas involved – a story that has mostly gone untold until now. The person in Outside's interview, says that no foreign journalists or bloggers who were there in BC bothered to talk with the Sherpas involved to get their side of the story. Not even the Nepalese government liaisons approached them. This interview gets at least part of their story out to the public.

If you're a fan of all-things Everest, you'll certainly want to read both of these stories.

Alan Arnette Announces Manaslu Expedition

While the climbing season in Pakistan is winding down it won't be too long before the fall season in the Himalaya begins to pick up. Soon the seasonal monsoon will begin to dissipate and mountains that have been off limits for the past few months will suddenly become quite popular once again. This fall we'll get the opportunity to follow one expedition in particular very closely as our friend Alan Arnette has announced that he will climb Manaslu this fall. 

Standing 8163 meters (26,781 ft) in height, Manaslu is the fifth tallest mountain in the world. It is located inside Nepal,  approximately 65 km (40 miles) east of Annapurna and is one of the lesser climbed 8000 meter peaks. First climbed by a Japanese team back in 1956, Manaslu's most popular route to the summit follows its Northeast Ridge and requires the establishment of four camps on the way to the top. Alan notes that the biggest obstacles to success include heavy snow and avalanches that occur on the upper slopes.

This will be Alan's eighth expedition to an 8000 meter peak. He has attempted Everest four times, successfully topping out once, and also has experience on Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. As usual, he'll be climbing with the Altitude Junkies and if all goes according to plan, they'll be eyeing a summit bid sometime in early-October. The expedition will also be used to raise funds for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund, which holds a particular significance to Alan who lost his mother to that horrible disease and prompted him to launch his Memories Are Everything campaign.

If you are familiar with Alan's blog you know that he covers the mountaineering scene very well and writes from a place of experience. His posts are always interesting and extremely well done and that includes when he sends dispatches back from his own climbs. That means that later this year we should get a very good narrative about what it is like to climb on Manaslu. I have no doubt that he'll keep us well informed about every step of the journey and make us feel like we're on the mountain with him. I know that I am already looking forward to following the climb in the weeks ahead.

Good luck Alan! Climb safely!