Himalaya 2014: Summits Across the Himalaya!

As expected, there were a number of summit pushes across the 8000 meter peaks this past weekend, with climbers finding success on several mountains. It was a busy couple of days in the Himalaya, where teams sought to take advantage of a weather window, and top out during a period of relatively calm winds and good all around conditions.

We'll start on Kangchenjunga, where Denis Urubko summited the mountain solo after his teammates turned back out of fear of an unstable approach to the summit. Climbing along the North Face, Denis completed a new route that is a variant of the British Route used in the past. He has already returned to Camp 4, where his teammates, Alex Txikon, Adam Bielecki, Artjom Braun and Dmitri Sinev, were waiting. Alex and Adam had hoped to summit, and traverse down the South Face, but conditions were not good for such an attempt. All members of the team will now head down to Base Camp, and most likely prepare to head home.

On the South Side of Kangchenjunga, ExWeb is reporting that Spanish climber Carlos Soria has also topped out, nabbing his eleventh 8000-meter peak at the age of 75. He was joined on the summit by Italian Marco Camandona and Finnish climber Samuli Mansikka, who topped out without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Jumping over to Cho Oyu, Mike and Matt Moniz successfully topped out on Saturday, right on schedule. They had a very narrow weather window for their summit bid, as high winds are expected back on that mountain today. After setting out at 4 AM, the reached the summit at 11 AM that morning, before descending all the way back down to ABC before taking a rest. The father-son team had originally planned to now travel to the South Side of Everest, and attempt a double-summit of that mountain and Lhotse. With things shut down on the South Side however, we'll have to wait to see if they just head home instead.


Mike Horn and Fred Roux found success on Makalu on Saturday as well. They reached the summit of that 8463 meter (27,765 ft) mountain without supplemental oxygen or high altitude Sherpa support. Fred topped out at about 10:30 AM local time, while Mike followed along at 4:00 PM in the afternoon. That should give you an indication of how good the weather was, at that is late in the day for summit. Both men descended the mountain safely and reunited in ABC.

Other climbers who have reportedly topped out on Makalu this weekend include Serbian climber Dragan Celikovic, Canadians Al Hancock and Monique Richard, Norwegian Arvid Lennard Lahit, and  French alpinist Philippe Gatta with Pasang Gombu.

Not everyone was successful on Makalu however, as ExWeb reports that a team of Indian climbers led by Arjun Vajpai were forced to turn back just 150 meters below the summit due to exhaustion and a lack of fixed ropes going to the top. Other teams were in position to summit yesterday and today, but we'll have to wait for further confirmation on their success.

ExWeb also reports that there were 10 summits on Dhaulagiri this weekend as well, with clients of Seven Summits Treks topping out on Saturday that includes two Chinese climbers Jing Luo and Zhu Gang, Peruvian Rimac Trejo Victor and Nepalese clients Nirmal Purja and Krishna Thapa Magar.

Meanwhile, the climbers on Everest's North Side continue to wait for their turn to come. A weather window is now expected later this week so that rope fixing can be completed at long last. Most teams are now looking at making their summit push starting on Friday and extending into the weekend. We'll just have to wait to see how things play out then.

Stay tuned for more updates.

Himalaya 2014: It is Go Time in the Himalaya!

After weeks of acclimatizing, and days of waiting for a weather window, it appears that it is finally time for the summit season to begin in the Himalaya. All across the region there are reports of good conditions in the mountains, with the high winds that have been buffeting the area quieting down at last. That means it should be a busy weekend on the 8000-meter peaks, where teams have launched their summit bids at last.

We'll start on Shishapangma, where ExWeb is reporting that there have already been successful summits, with more yet to come. A team of four French climbers, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel, Antoine Bletton and Max Bonniot topped out on Wednesday via the South Face, and are already safely back in Base Camp. Meanwhile, teams on the North Side of the mountain are on the move as well, and should have a legitimate shot at reaching the summit sometime this weekend.

Over on Makalu, Mike Horn and Fred Roux have launched their summit bid. They climbed up to 6800 meters (22,309 ft) yesterday, and are homing to move up to Camp 2 at 7500 meters (24,606 ft) today. They report that high winds are still making things difficult on the upper slopes, but they expect them to quiet down, and allow for an attempt on the summit on Sunday.


Other teams are on the move on Makalu as well, which is where Chris Jensen Burke is tuning up for an attempt on K2 later this summer. She expects her squad to be heading up this weekend as well, as everyone looks to take advantage of the weather window ahead. There hasn't been an update from Chris in a couple of days, but it is safe to assume that she, along with the rest of her team, are eying a summit on Sunday too.

The team of  Alex Txikon, Adam Bielecki and Dmitri Sinev, Denis Urubko and Artem Braun are looking to open a new route on Kangchenjunga, and after acclimatizing along the normal route on the North Face, they are on the move as well. If everything goes as scheduled, they should top out tomorrow or Sunday, with Txikon and Bielecki looking to descend on the South Side, completing a traverse of the mountain. The team is climbing without supplemental oxygen, or high altitude Sherpa support.

On Cho Oyu, it seems this will be a very narrow weather window, with storms predicted to move in early next week. With that in mind, Mike and Matt Moniz have launched their summit bid, with the hopes of moving quickly to the top, and getting back down before the weather window slams shut. They left Advanced Base Camp yesterday, and should be Camp 2 today, where they'll rest for a brief period before making a push all the way to the summit, which should happen tomorrow morning local time.

Conspicuous with its absence on this update is Everest of course. The North Side has been effectively shut down the past few days due to high winds. The ropes are reportedly fixed up to Camp 3, and Sherpa teams are preparing to install them all the way to the summit, which looks to be finished around the 20th or 21st of the month. After that, teams will begin heading up, and may even be in a position to summit soon after the rope fixing is complete.

On the South Side of the mountain, where the two women climbers are making attempts on Everest and Lhotse, it is impossible to say what their schedule is. Rope fixing needs to be done there as well, and both of the ladies are probably still acclimatizing to the altitude. That story is an evolving one of course, so we'll just have to wait to see how it plays out once they come back down the mountain.

I'll post updates next week with results of these summit bids. Hopefully everyone gets up and down safely this weekend.

Everest 2014: Rebel Climbers Causing Grief to Former Expedition Leaders

I know I've already posted a fairly lengthy update from the Himalaya today, but the evolving story on the South Side of Everest just keeps revealing new layers. 

It seems that the two female climbers who have defied the closure of the mountain are creating headaches not just for the Ministry of Tourism in Nepal, but also for their former expedition leaders as well. Himex boss Russell Brice posted a note on his company's website detailing some of the problems he has been facing since one of the ladies was originally climbing under his permit. In that letter, Brice says that the Nepali government had been holding him responsible for the actions of Chinese climber Jing Wang, who hired seven Sherpas, and a helicopter to fly her to Camp 2, in an effort to continue climbing the mountain. As you can imagine, this has caused him a great deal of grief, as the Ministry of Tourism was even threatening to ban Himex from operating within Nepal for five years. 

Fortunately, it seems that the situation has been resolved, at least to the extent that Brice and Himex are no longer being held responsible for the actions of their former client. In the letter, Russell says that he knows who the company is that is supporting Wang, although he doesn't reveal that piece of information. He does say that the owner of that outfit has refused to answer to the Nepali government, but all seven Sherpas that are supporting the Chinese climber are employed by this outfitter. 

This latest addition to the story just underscores how out of control things seem on the South Side of Everest at the moment. It appears as if the Nepali government has lost control and can't keep things in order there. As mentioned earlier, there are rumors of other climbers potentially heading to the mountain to take a helicopter up to Camp 2 as well, which will only cause more issues for those trying to maintain some semblance of control. 

In the case of Jing Wang, we have a climber who has set a goal for herself. She is attempting to complete the 7 Summits and reach both the North and South Pole in record time, and it appears she is not about to let anything stand in her way. As I stated when I first wrote about these "rebel climbers" a few days back, she does face stiff fines from the government, and a potential 5 or 10 year ban from climbing in the Himalaya. I'm not sure she cares at the moment, but it will definitely be interesting to see what the fallout is from these actions once she comes down from the mountain.

Similarly, American Cleo Weidlich is facing the same ramifications. She was originally on the South Side to climb Lhotse this spring, and presumably that is still her goal. She is climbing independently as far as I can tell, and hasn't hired any Sherpas to help in her attempt. Cleo made the decision to by pass the Khumbu Icefall by using a helicopter after she found her own route through that dangerous section sabotaged. Unwilling to give up her climb, but not wishing to risk the dangerous icefall crossing alone, she chose to leapfrog the section and just start climbing from C2 instead. Eventually she'll have to come back down as well, and officials from Nepal will be waiting. 

As I said, this story is still evolving, and it continues to be a crazy one. What looked like was about to be a quiet season on the South Side, has turned into quite the drama. Watching it play out should be interesting. Lets just hope everyone who is still attempting the mountain, gets up and down as safely as possible. The last thing we need now is another tragedy under these strange circumstances.

Himalaya 2014: Waiting for a Weather Window

It has been a week or so since I posted a general update from the Himalaya. During that time, not much has changed, as most of the teams have been simply waiting for a weather window to open. As the middle of May fast approaches, most of the climbers are now acclimated, and are just biding their time for the right opportunity to come. Over the past week, high winds and snow have been common across the entire region, but that is about to change, signaling the start of summit pushes on several mountains.

We'll start on the North Side of Everest, where roughly 100 climbers are waiting for their opportunity to go up the hill. Rope fixing is complete up to Camp 3, located at 8300 meters (27,230 ft), but high winds are preventing anyone from going any higher at the moment. Until the Sherpa team from the Chinese-Tibet Mountaineering Association can complete the job of installing the ropes, no one will be able to summit. But a weather window is approaching, and most teams are now expecting their summit pushes to begin next week. Expect possible summits on May 21. Until then, the teams are resting in Base Camp.

Over on the South Side, there continue to be reports of guerrilla climbers who are defying the closure of the mountain to make their own attempts on the summit. As previously mentioned, they include American Cleo Weidlich and Chinese mountaineer Jing Wang, both of whom have reportedly chartered a helicopter to fly them to Camp 2, thus avoiding the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. Rumor has it, these two women may not be alone on the mountain. At least not for long. There are some indications that others may try to join them at Camp 2, using the same helicopter. These stories only help to perpetuate what has already been a strange season on Everest. What happens from here will certainly be interesting to watch unfold, and will make a great story for sure.


Elsewhere, Mike Horn and Fred Roux are prepping for their summit bid on Makalu. They've been waiting for a good window for some time as well, and it looks like it'll come late this week. They hope to begin their push on Friday, and summit over the weekend. They had been planning on an alpine style ascent, but considering the delays, and the general schedule at this point, it appears they'll be moving up with the rest of the teams on the mountain. They will climb without the use of supplemental oxygen, or Sherpa support however.

Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke is also on Makalu, and she reported in from ABC yesterday. She says that her team is ready to go as well, but high winds are keeping them grounded for now. They are eyeing a summit bid this weekend as well however, with the current schedule having the push set to begin on May 14 or 15, with everyone topping out on May 17 or 18. She indicated that rope fixing is nearly complete, and while there are some challenging sections that will need to be overcome along the way, she is feeling confident as she prepares to head up.

Jumping over to Cho Oyu, Mike and Matt Moniz are in a holding pattern as well. The weather has been poor there too, and it looks like it'll only get worse next week. They are now eyeing a narrow weather window which will arrive over the weekend. The winds are expected to die down on the summit on May 17, which may give them the opportunity they need to dash to the top, and get back down. Hopefully they'll be able to achieve their objective in that time frame.

Denis Urubko has posted an update from Kangchenjunga, where he and his team are attempting a new route along the North Ride. After acclimatizing for some time on the standard route, they are now preparing to begin the real work they came to the Himalaya for. The first pair of climber moved up to Camp 1 yesterday, and should push ahead to Camp 3 today. That will put them at 7500 meters (24,606 ft), with some tricky rock faces to overcome. Denis reports that high winds have been an issue there as well, and that they'll need to die down before they can make their true push to the top. As is usual with this team, they are climbing in alpine style, without Sherpa support, and without oxygen.

Finally, a quick note on Annapurna. You haven't heard me mention it much this season, but there were a couple of summit attempts on the mountain a few weeks back. But conditions were once again far too dangerous, and all climbers were turned back before they could reach the top. Those expeditions then picked up their gear and left Base Camp, determining that Annapurna was simply too dangerous to climb this spring. This is the second year in a row without any successful summits on this mountain during the spring. Last year, there were several summits during the fall, so we'll have to wait to see if success can be found there once again.

That's all for now. More soon.

Everest 2014: Rebel Climbers On The South Side?

It has been a topsy-turvy season in the Himalaya in general, and Everest in particular. With the tragic accident that killed 16 Sherpas shutting down the South Side of the mountain, most climbers have left for home, reflecting on the season that could have been as they go. While it has been widely reported that the season is over on the Nepal side of the mountain, we have received word that not one, but possibly two, climbers are still attempting to summit from the South, despite the fact that the Khumbu Ice Doctors have closed up shop, and gone home for the season. If true, those climbers are facing quite a challenge, and quite possibly legal ramifications from the Nepali government.

Several sources, including Alan Arnette, are reporting that American climber Cleonice (Cleo) Weidlich has defied the closure, and is attempting to summit Everest. She posted a message on her Facebook page last week saying:

"This is just to let you know that my climb on the Everest Massif will continue with or without ladders. I have climbed some of the world’s most dangerous mountain WITHOUT them and this mountain is, actually, very tame when I compare it with the likes of Nanga Parbat, Annapurna 1 and Kangchenjunga. I refuse to give in to the pressures of the Everest mafia. I’d like to decide for myself when I have reached my limits. Thanks to ALL of you for all the positive energy; I can feel it.."

There are some indications that Weidlich may have chartered a helicopter to carry her, and her gear, up to Camp 2, where she would begin an un-supported summit bid after she has acclimatized. Using a helicopter to reach that point is an expensive affair, and isn't suppose to be done without the permission of the Nepali government. Alan estimates it would cost $2000/person to take a helicopter to Camp 2, and his sources say that no one has asked for specific permission to make such a flight.


It seems Cleo may not be the only one on the mountain however, as there are rumors that Chinese alpinist Jing Wang, who is attempting to complete the 7 Summits and North and South Pole in record time, has also used a helicopter to fly to C2. Reportedly she hired seven Sherpas in Namche Bazaar to provide support, and then flew the entire team up the slope, avoiding the dangerous Khumbu Icefall altogether.  Jin Wang owns a large gear company in China, so she reportedly has very deep pockets to help fund her expeditions.

These stories put yet another unusual spin on a season that has already been an odd one on Everest. We now have two women in Camp 2 on the South Side, each attempting an independent climb, without fixed ropes, to the top of the highest mountain on Earth. One apparently has no Sherpa support at all, while the other has small team around her to assist in her efforts. If they can acclimatize relatively quickly, they both still have a shot at the summit, provided the weather cooperates, and the monsoons don't arrive too early.

The ramifications from these two expeditions could be far reaching. We know that there was a group of Sherpas that were very vocal against climbing the mountain this spring, and pressured others to abandon their attempts as well. There could be backlash against the team that is helping Jing Wang in her summit bid after they come off the mountain. Hopefully that won't be the case, but there were indications of threats of violence and extreme pressure when the spring season still hung in the balance.

But aside from that, if Cleo and Jing Wang used a helicopter to reach Camp 2 without permission, they could face stiff fines, and possible banishment from climbing in Nepal. I guess their Everest ambitions were strong enough that they don't seem to care about the ramifications, but it'll definitely be interesting to see how things progress over the next few weeks.

Meanwhile, on the North Side of Everest, things are progressing along as you would expect. The ropes are bing put into place, and should soon reach the summit, while the climbing teams have now wrapped up their acclimatization rounds, and are resting ahead of the first summit push. That is expected to come next week, weather permitting. I'll post a more detailed update on what's happening on the North Side, and elsewhere in the Himalaya, tomorrow.

Everest 2014: Acclimatization and Pujas on the North Side

With the South Side of Everest shut down, it is certainly a much quieter season on the Big Hill than anyone of us could have ever anticipated. Still, work continues on the North Side, where the teams are acclimatizing and preparing themselves for the challenges ahead.

The 7 Summits Club posted an update on their progress this morning, and all seems to be going according to plan. The team has been divided into two groups, with the first squad in Advanced Base Camp, and the other on their way there today. Tomorrow, the first members of the team will go to the Camp 1 at the North Col, and in anticipation of that, they have been working on their fixed rope skills. Once the entire team is together in ABC, they'll also hold their Puja ceremony, asking for the blessing from the mountain before beginning the climb.

Adventure Peaks posted an update a few days back, saying they were in day 3 of their 5 day rest period before they began their next rotation. That should mean that they are ready to proceed up again today, possibly with an eye on heading to the North Col as well. They report that the weather in Base Camp has been warm, and calm, although winds are blowing harder higher up on the mountain.

Similarly, the Asian Trekking squad appears to be on a the same trajectory as the teams mentioned above. They have climbers in ABC at the moment as well, so it looks like everyone is taking advantage of the current weather window to get in some time at altitude, to let their bodies acclimate to the conditions.


It is important to note that climbing on the North Side differs a bit from climbing on the South. In Nepal, the large commercial teams work together to fix the ropes and prepare the route to the summit. On the North Side, a special team of Sherpas, under the guidance of the Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA), takes care of all of the work themselves. So, while the teams are busy prepping for their climb, the CTMA team is ensuring that they'll have a route to the top, including securing the ladder at the Second Step to grant them access.

Obviously the route is much different on this side of the mountain too. Climbers don't have to deal with the Khumbu Icefall, which makes the early portions of the climb safer. But once they near the summit, they are a bit more exposed, and some of the sections of the ascent are a bit more technical as well. The North Side may be a bit more challenging in that respect, although really the level of difficulty is about the same, the challenges are just different.

It appears that most of the teams that are still on the mountain will spend the weekend in Camp 1. I would expect them to drop back to BC next week, before heading higher again after that. Their current schedule has the rope fixing completed around May 15, weather permitting of course. After that, the teams will see when the first window will arrive before they start their summit pushes. With 100 climbers on the Tibetan side of the mountain this spring, there will be a steady stream of people heading up during that first push, but the North Side doesn't have the same issues with over crowding as the South Side does, so it should be a fairly orderly ascent.

Stay tuned for more updates in the days ahead. Lots more to come as the season unfolds.

Everest 2014: Threats On Western Climbers By Sherpas?

By now, you may be getting a little tired of hearing about the cancellation of the climbing season on Everest, and believe me, I'd rather be writing about the expeditions that are taking place, rather than rehashing the subject. But, this is a story that will shape the way the mountain is climbed in the future, and it continues to play out now, even after most of the teams have left Base Camp and headed for home.

There are some reports coming out of Nepal that western climbers who wished to continue climbing Everest after the cancellation, were threatened with violence by Sherpas. Apparently, they didn't want anyone going up the mountain, with or without them. Following the announcement of the cancellation, there were as many as four teams that wished to continue, but a vocal minority of Sherpas, possibly backed by the Maoists that hold sway in Nepal, aggressively pressured those teams to leave the mountain and go home.

If these reports are true, there is a dark side to the cancellation that hasn't fully come out yet. Most of the reports have focused on the Sherpas putting demands on the Nepali government to pressure them into giving the guides better benefits and providing support for the families of those who were killed in the avalanche on April 18. Those are demands that we can all get behind, and something that the climbers have been in support of all along.


This story has been spun as if the conflict was between the Sherpas and the government, with the western climbers caught in the middle. It seems the Sherpas may have turned their ire on foreign climbers along the way as well, which has not been widely reported just yet.

My feeling is that this incident is the straw that broke the camels back, if you will. I suspect there will be significant changes to the climbing season in Nepal moving forward, with the Sherpas receiving better pay and insurance benefits, amongst other things. There has been word of some new measures that could be taken to make the climb safer as well, but we'll have to wait to see if those rumors materialize.

While I fully intend to focus on the climbers still attempting Everest on the North Side, I will continue to post updates on what is happening in Nepal as well. I have a feeling that will be a bigger story that continues to evolve even after this season is over.

Everest 2014: All Eyes Turn North

With all of the climbing expeditions on Everest's South Side cancelled for the year, the mountain has gotten very quiet in terms of the usual activity we see in the spring. But not everyone is done with the world's tallest mountain, as there are still a number of teams climbing on the North Side in Tibet. It is estimated that about 100 climbers will attempt to summit from that side of the mountain in the weeks ahead, and while word of the turmoil on the South Side has no doubt reached their ears, they are busy preparing for the challenges they will face.

The 7 Summits Club is a fixture on the North Side, climbing there every spring season. This year, their team consists of 19 mountaineers, all of whom have moved up to Advanced Base Camp at 6400 meters (20,997 ft) as part of their acclimatization rotation. Their Sherpa team has also built their camp at the North Col, located at 7000 meters (22,965 ft), where they'll proceed upwards later this week. With the South Side teams now all gone, 7 Summit Clubs holds the distinction of being the largest team on the mountain, something I'm sure their guides never thought they'd see.

The Asian Trekking squad has been following a similar path, spending some time in ABC before descending back to Base Camp. This is all part of their normal acclimatization rotations as they get ready for the higher altitudes to come. If the weather cooperated, they had hoped to move up to the North Col this past weekend, but there hasn't been any word yet if they actually reached this point.

Climbing on the North Side of Everest is very different in a lot of way. Obviously the route to the summit is complete unique, with its own set of challenges that need to be overcome, including the infamous Second Step, which is negotiated with the help of a ladder. But aside from that, the climate in North Side Base Camp is quite different from that on the South Side. The Chinese control all aspects of the climb, and rather than having the large commercial teams working together to fix ropes, they employ a team of Sherpas with the specific task of ensuring a safe route to the summit. This allows the teams to focus on acclimatizing, while the ropes are installed by a completely independent group.


Of course, the North Side is also much less crowded. In recent years, the Chinese have shut down climbing on that side of Everest due to political unrest, and their own agenda for taking the Olympic torch so the summit a few years back. Because of the uncertainty this has created, many climbers have decided to go to the South Side in order to avoid these kinds of issues. While there hasn't been a shutdown for several years now, the North Side remains much quieter than the South as a result.

Updates from Everest will continue in the days and weeks ahead. There will be fewer teams to report on of course, but the season will continue to unfold as it always has. Look for the first summit bids to begin sometime around mid-May, depending on how the weather shapes up. Wish so few people still on the mountain, there could be just one or two summit waves, and then it'll all be over. We'll just have to wait to see how the season develops.

Back on the South Side, some Sherpas were flown to Camp 1 and 2 by helicopter to collect gear. They've stashed much of their supplies for next season at C2, which is an unprecedented move. Most of the teams have left the mountain, and are now on their way back home, while a few others will focus on some of the lesser peaks in the region before calling it a day. A great deal of uncertainty remains about the future of climbing on Everest in Nepal, and there will be many issues to resolve before the 2015 season gets underway. It will certainly be interesting to see how things shape up in the months ahead.

More updates will follow, both on the progress on the North Side, and the political developments.

Everest 2014: Confusion And Disarray Remains On The South Side

Yesterday, it was reported that the climbing season on Everest was officially shut down following a meeting with the Sherpas and officials from the Nepali government. Several teams had already announced that they were leaving, and as the days passed this week, more and more climbers elected to go home. But despite reports of a closure, Nepal has said that the mountain does indeed remain open, and that they were working with Sherpas to provide support for those who wished to climb. Of course, as has been typical with this story, there are many facets to what we are being told, and Nepal's attempt to save face with the mountaineering world.

It should be noted, that despite the fact that the mountain remains "open," the two remaining large teams – Himex and Altitude Junkies – announced that they were ending their expeditions yesterday. That means that even if any of the smaller teams decided to stay, there would be little support with helping to fix ropes to the summit.

But the other challenge is getting through the Khumbu Icefall, which is quite possibly the trickiest section of the mountain on the South Col route. Without the Ice Doctors in place to help maintain the route, it is incredibly difficult to pass through. It is unclear at this time if the Ice Docs would even want to stay, following the departure of all of the other team. Some reports indicate that there have even been threats against the Doctors, and their families, should they choose to stay. Nepali officials say they are negotiating with some of the Sherpas to try to get them to stay, but whether or not they do, remains to be seen. If they do stay, who exactly are the supporting on the mountain? The major teams are now all gone, or leaving soon.


All of this come in the wake of the avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas last Friday, which led to the remaining Sherpa contingent asking for a seven day moratorium on climbing out of respect to those that had lost their lives. In the days that followed, tension and anger grew in Base Camp, leading to some of the local guides departing, while western climbers waited to see what would happen. Over the past few days, a massive drama has played out on mountaineering's grandest stage.

The repercussions from this season are likely to be felt for years to come. The Sherpas are tired of doing the bulk of the work on Everest, and taking the brunt of the causalities, while not being compensated fairly for their work. It is likely that their share of the pot will increase by next year, but will Nepal raise the price of climbing permits to account for the changes?

While Everest may remain officially open, it is going to be a very quiet place the rest of the season. Unless some of the top mountaineers in the world decide to go scale the mountain while it is empty, there will likely be no summits from the South Side this year. In fact, it is highly likely that there won't be a single team in Base Camp following this weekend.

It is a lost season on the world's tallest mountain. At least not the South Side. There will still be plenty of summits from the North, and starting next week, we'll get back to following their progress.

Everest 2014: Season Over On The South Side

Following the departure of almost every major climbing team on the South Side of Everest yesterday, Nepali officials have made it official today. The climbing season on the world's tallest mountain is over. No one will climb the South Col route this year.

As usual, Alan Arnette has all of the details before pretty much anyone else. He reports that a government official finally appeared in Base Cape today to make the official declaration that the season was finished. As Alan rightly points out, that proclamation was almost a foregone conclusion considering the mass exodus that was taking place from BC yesterday. With all of the big teams heading home already, there wasn't much else to be said at this point.

With Sherpa support eroding, either by choice or default, there are few people left on the mountain to fix ropes, shuttle gear, and guide western climbers to the summit. On top of that, the Ice Doctors need to be able to maintain the route through the Khumbu Icefall, and when no one is there to do that, it is extremely difficult to proceed up. The Ice Docs were reportedly some of the most vocal about going home.

Alan indicated that the Nepali government has said that it will honor the climbing permits from this year for up to five years. That means anyone who had their expedition cancelled, can return in the future to attempt to climb Everest again. That is probably little solace at the moment, but at least not all opportunities are lost. Many of these climbers will find a way to return. It will remain an expensive proposition for sure, but at least they have the option.


What all of this means for the long term prospects for climbing on Everest has yet to be seen. The canceling of the season is probably the start of changes to come. The Sherpas clearly aren't happy with the situation, and will likely continue to press for better working conditions, compensation, and insurance. But really, the issue is the mountain itself. It is becoming more dangerous, as climate change makes accidents like the avalanche that claimed the lives of 16 Sherpas last week, potentially more common. The serac that collapsed has been there for the past several years, quite literally looming over the head of the climbers. It is the same serac that prompted Himex team leader Russell Brice to cancel his expedition back in 2012. With the way things are evolving on Everest, and the Himalaya in general, these kinds of accidents are only going to become more likely.

Over crowing on Everest remains a serious issue, and while that didn't play into the disaster as such, it could have easily become a factor. Had the avalanche occurred just a few days later, there was the potential for far more climbers to be on the Hill. The loss of life could have been far more than 16, and that number already marks the worst in the history of the mountain. There are no easy answers. People will continue to climb Everest and face the risks. But this tragedy does seem like it'll spur more discussion on how things can be improved in general. At least we have to hope that that will be the case.

All of this said, Alan points out in an update that there are some indications that there may be a few teams that will yet try to summit from the South Side, even with the official shut down. We'll have to wait for those stories to pan out, but they do seem rather unlikely. There are few climbers in the world who can summit without Sherpa support, but we'll have to wait to see what happens.

Also, it is important to point out that there are still teams on the North Side of the mountain in Tibet. While they have all obviously heard about the situation in the South, the are continue to move forward as planned. I will be following their progress closely, and providing updates in the days ahead.

I'll also continue to post updates on the situation as it evolves in Nepal. This story is far from over.

Everest Update II: Discovery Channel Making Documentary On Avalanche

A few days back, it was reported that the Discovery Channel had scrapped plans to film Joby Ogwyn's attempt to summit Everest, then jump from the top in a wingsuit. At the time, they said it was out of respect for those what had died in last week's avalanche, which claimed the lives of 16 Sherpas. Now, we have word that Discovery will instead make a documentary about the accident, which was the deadliest in the history of the mountain.

According to reports, the documentary will not only focus on the avalanche itself, but the aftermath, which we all know is still unfolding. The reaction of the Sherpa guides, how they deal with the loss of friends and family, and their interactions with western climbers and the Nepali government will take center stage.

When I read this news, I couldn't help but wonder if this was Discovery's way of taking lemons and making lemonade, or simply a way for them to profit off of the tragedy. Obviously they've invested a lot of money and resources to send a team to the Himalaya this spring to film Ogwyn's jump. That team is still there, and have been witness to the disaster – not to mention the fallout that has occurred afterward.

Perhaps I'm being too cynical, but it just seems too early to already be making such a special. Of course, it will all come down to how the delicate situation is handled, and considering the Discovery team had hired Sherpas who were lost in the avalanche, I'd like to think that they'll produce something that won't just take advantage of the situation. Only time will tell of course, and we'll have to wait until it airs to know for sure. Here's hoping it is a well done piece on the plight of the Sherpas, and not just something that is put together to profit from the sad situation.

Before we judge them too harshly, it is only fair to point out that Discovery is contributing to the Sherpa relief fund. With 5 of the dead coming from their team, this seems like a good gesture on their part, and an indication of their understanding of the situation.

What are your thoughts on this story? 

Everest Update: IMG Team Heading Home, Climbing Season Over?

As I've mentioned before, the situation on Everest's South Side is very fluid at the moment, and things are definitely in a state of flux. But, it seems the situation took a major step towards resolving itself, as the IMG team, one of the largest on the mountain, has made the decision to go home. 

Alan Arnette broke the news a short time ago, and does a good job of explaining why this could be the definitive end of the season. Essentially, IMG, along with Himex, the Altitude Junkies, and a few other major teams, are the ones who handle the bulk of the work in fixing the ropes up the mountain. With this team now headed home, a major part of the work force for handling the high altitude rope-fixing is now gone. While that doesn't mean it'll be impossible for others to do the work, it does make things much more challenging.

The IMG statement reads in full as follows:

IMG leaders Greg Vernovage and Ang Jangbu Sherpa have been forced to end the expedition due to the perilous conditions resulting from the April 18 Icefall avalanche. After several days of intense meetings at Base Camp and in Kathmandu among climbers, sherpas, and representatives from the Ministry of Tourism, no agreement was reached on restarting the 2014 Everest climbing season. The Icefall route is currently unsafe for climbing without repairs by the Icefall doctors, who will not be able to resume their work this season. We have explored every option and can find no way to safely continue the expedition. 

The IMG team will be starting down valley in the next few days, with some trekking and some hitching rides by helicopter. They are joined by climbers from other expedition teams that had also been waiting at Base Camp and have also been forced to end their climbs. 

—Eric Simonson, IMG Partner

As Alan also points out, this isn't just about having the Sherpas there to help coordinate and support the climbs. With a week of no movement, most of the teams are now way behind in their acclimatization process. By now, most everyone would have made a rotation up to Camp 1 and 2, but as they sit in Base Camp, they are not preparing their bodies for the altitude challenges they would eventually face. There is no way to safely acculturate that process, and since there tends to be a rather narrow weather window for a summit attempt, it looks like things could get dicey in this regard as well. Again, the door isn't closed entirely, but it is slowly creeping in that direction.

More to follow soon.

Everest 2014: Another Team Leaves Base Camp, Tensions High On The Mountain

It has been another tumultuous 24 hours on Everest, where tension continues to run high amongst the Sherpas, who continue to mourn the loss of 16 of their companions in an avalanche last Friday. While the Government of Nepal has agreed to most of the terms set down by the mountain guides, there is still a level of distrust and uncertainty. Whether or not that gap can be bridged remains to be seen, and  while efforts are being made to do just that, the entire climbing season hangs in the balance.

Yesterday I reported that the Adventure Consultants had cancelled their expedition after losing three Sherpas in the accident. At the time, I speculated that other teams might make the same decision, and that prediction has proven accurate. The Alpine Ascents squad has also made the decision to go home. They lost 5 members of their team to the avalanche, and have been struggling with that loss ever since.

If you've been following this situation closely, Alan Arnette has two good posts that you'll definitely want to read. The first, is an update on the situation, with Alan's contacts in Base Camp providing him with a sense of the mood there. In short, those contacts report that things are extremely tense, and there is a great deal of anger in the Sherpa community. This is not unlike the emotion that was felt last year, when several Sherpas came to blows with western climbers. The local guides are feeling disrespected once again, but this time the anger is aimed at the Nepali government, and not so much the western climbers.



The second post you should read is Alan's account of his relationship with his Sherpa. It gives you a first hand account of how a climber interacts with the man who is there to help him reach the top. It is a good read, and gives readers personal insight into how the mountaineer and the Sherpa work together.

Meanwhile, the New York Times is reporting that a meeting took place in South Side Base Camp yesterday, with two-thirds of the Sherpas voting to end the season. If that number is accurate, it doesn't bode well for the climbers, and we could be looking at the end of the season by as soon as this Friday. The Times also says that two veteran Everest leaders flew to Kathmandu via helicopter in order to meet with officials from the government. The hope is that they can broker some kind of deal that will keep the mountain open.

Fox News is also weighing in on the topic, and they indicate that sources in Base Camp have told them that Sherpas have already begun to walk out. Indications are that these men are just the beginning, and that over the next few days, more will follow. CBS News is offering a similar account, going so far as to say that most of the Sherpas have already left BC.

That doesn't appear to be the case with the Peak Freaks however. Team leader Tim Rippel has indicated that he has offered his Sherpas full-pay, even if they decided to go home. They all have chosen to stay.

It seems that no matter what the government says, or the western climbing leaders, if the Sherpas make the decision to go, they will go. Anger, resentment and grief seem to be the emotions that are most prevalent in Base Camp at the moment, and only time is going to help heal those feelings. For now, we'll all just have to wait and see what happens.

Everest Update: Nepal Meets Sherpa Demands, Climbing Season Still Uncertain

Another quick update from Nepal today, where things seem to be evolving quickly in the wake of the deadly avalanche that occurred last Friday, and the subsequent shut down of all climbing operations on the mountain. As you may recall from yesterday's post, the Sherpas working on Everest had a list of demands for the Nepalese government that included paying compensation to the families of those who had died, increasing the amount of insurance covering the those working on the mountain, and paying for the medical expenses for those injured in the accident. The government was given seven days to reply, at which time the Sherpas would determine the fate of the climbing season.

It didn't take the Ministry of Tourism a week to come up with their answer. Reports are starting to trickle in that they have agreed to the terms set down by the Sherpa leadership, possibly ending the climbing boycott. The fate of the climbing season still hangs in the brink however, as there are indications that some of the Sherpas may leave Base Camp, and return home. This comes amidst stories of rising tension in BC between the local guides and the foreign climbers there.

The news article linked to above says that during a Puja ceremony performed for the 16 fallen Sherpas today, the chanting became "furious" in nature, with many calling for the end of climbing on Everest this spring. The Sherpas continue to mourn their lost comrades, and many do not want to step foot back on the mountain. Whether or not this sentiment will continue remains to be seen, but it certainly sounds like things remain very uncertain there at the moment.

My guess is that the Sherpas will take the full week to grieve for the fallen, then make a decision at a later time. Right now, they are angry and heartbroken, and it will take some time before they can begin to heal. That may happen at the expense of this season, and I don't think many of us would blame them for leaving.

Stay tuned for further updates. I'll post more news as it comes in.

Everest 2014: Adventure Consultants Cancel Expedition, Will Others Follow?

Climbing operations on the South Side of Everest have been shut down since the tragic accident that claimed the lives of 16 Sherpa last Friday. During that period, the mountaineering community there has been mourning the loss of their friends and teammates, while attempting exactly how to proceed from here. The death of those men has touched every team, and every climber, in some way, and at the moment, the fate of the entire season is hanging in the balance. That is no longer true for one team however, as they have made the difficult decision to end their expedition. 

Earlier today, the Adventure Consultants sent the following dispatch from Base Camp:

The past few days at Everest Base Camp since Friday have been a very difficult time for all on the AC team as we grieve for the Sherpas who have been lost. Our three dear friends were integral to our operation and our Sherpa, Guides and staff know most of the other thirteen Sherpa and Nepalese who have died. After much discussion and consideration of all aspects the tough decision has been made to cancel the 2014 expedition this season.

Our team members have empathy for the Sherpa community and we wish for everyone to be able to mourn their lost family and friends in peace.
We thank you for all your support and condolences, which mean so much as we try to recover from the enormity of this tragedy.

The Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2014 Team

The AC squad is the first team to publicly announce that they are going home, and understandably so. Three of the Sherpas that were killed were on their squad, and the loss of those men has surely underscored the dangers of climbing the mountain. With heavy hearts, they will now begin the long journey back home.

I suspect that this won't be the only team that makes the decision to pull the plug on their expedition over the next few days. Indications are that there is a lot of uncertainty and doubt on the South Side at the moment, and the climbers are unsure how to pick up the pieces and continue on after the single deadliest day in Everest history. The decision could be made for them however, as the Sherpas themselves have asked for a seven day moratorium on climbing so that they could mourn the loss of their friends. At the end of that period, the entire group could call in an end to the season, particularly if the Nepali government doesn't respond to their list of demands.

We'll know a lot more in a few days, but for now, things continue to be quiet, while the everyone tries to sort out their options.

Everest 2014: Picking Up The Pieces

It was a sad, somber weekend on both the North and South Side of Everest following the massive avalanche that claimed as many as 16 lives on the Nepali side of the mountain last Friday. It was the single most deadly accident in Everest history, and it will not only have a lasting impact on this season, but many seasons to come.

While the efforts to retrieve the bodies of the fallen continue, climbing on the South Side has come to a complete standstill. The Sherpa community is in shock, and mourning the loss of their brethren. As a result, they have asked for a 7-day moratorium on operations on the mountain, while they sort through their grief and come to terms with how to proceed. That means, none of the clients are moving up the slopes at the moment, while everyone waits to see what will happen next.

Over the weekend, the Sherpas met in BC and discussed their plans moving forward. Out of that meeting came a list of demands that they wanted to see fulfilled before they would resume their work. Alan Arnette summarized those demands, and they are as follows:

• Increment of immediate relief announced for avalanche victims
• Provide Rs 10 million (US$103,590)  each to families of deceased
• Set up a memorial park in the name of the deceased in Kathmandu
• Cover all expenses for treatment of the injured
• Provide Rs 10 million (US$103,590) to critically hurt who cannot rejoin mountaineering activities
• Set up mountaineering relief fund with 30 per cent of royalty collected from issuing permits to different mountains (est $1M for 2014)
• Double the insurance amount to the mountaineering workers
• Provide additional chopper rescue to mountaineering support staff if insurance fails to cover the cost
• Provide perks and salaries, except summit bonus, through concerned agencies to Sherpas if they want to call off climbing this season
• Manage chopper to bring logistics and equipment from different camps if mountaineers decide to abandon climbing this season
• Don’t take action against SPCC icefall doctors if they refuse to fix ropes and ladders on the route this season
• Let the expedition members call off this season’s climbing if they wish so

If these demands are not met by the end of the week, there is a real chance that the Everest climbing season could be cancelled this year. The Sherpas are essentially threatening to walk off the mountain, which would bring a halt to the vast majority of expeditions. It is unclear at this time, what the response to these demands will be. 

In the wake of the tragic accident, the Discovery Channel has cancelled its planned coverage of Joby Ogwyn's attempt to summit, then jump off the top in a wing-suit. Ogwyn says that he is still going ahead with his plans, it just won't be televised now. 

The rest of the teams are in a holding pattern while they decide what to do. There are some reports of climbers already leaving BC and heading back to Kathmandu, while others wait to see how things will unfold. Dave Hahn, one of the top guides in the world working for RMI, said in a dispatch: "Our Sherpa partners love their jobs and love to climb, but nobody is climbing now and all are struggling to come to terms with how to proceed in a way that honors those lost and protects those left alive."

Similarly, my friend Gulnur Tumbat, who is in Base Camp now, posted this to her blog: "The mountain is shut down at the moment and this season is to bedeclared as "Black Year" with the deadliest day ever. We are exhausted and broken. We are trying to figure out what to do."

Both quotes give you an idea of the mood on the mountain right now. 

Word of the tragic events that occurred on the South Side, spread quickly to the North as well, where, the Sherpa teams are mourning the loss of friends and family too. But teams like the 7 Summits Club and Adventure Peaks have begun to arrive in Base Camp there, and work is proceeding on that side of the mountain. There are preliminary plans for the first climbers to head up to Advanced Base Camp today, as the acclimatization rotations begin. There will be further reports from the North Side as things unfold. 

As you can see, it is another strange year on Everest, with tragedy creating unusual circumstances. What will happen over the next few days remains to be seen, and it is possible that even if he Nepali government meets on the requirements of the Sherpas, that the season will be cancelled anyway. It is a sad, uncertain time on the mountain, and my heart goes out to everyone who is there right now. 

Everest 2014: Avalanche Near Camp 1, Numerous Sherpas Dead

Update: The death toll on Everest has climbed to as many as 16, as some of the missing climbers are found amongst the snow and ice that tumbled down the mountain. That is making things even more somber in Base Camp, as the names of the dead have now been revealed. Alan Arnette has a full list, as well as other info about which teams will be impacted by this accident. Certainly a rough day for all.

Sad news from the South Side of Everest this morning, where reports have come in that a major avalanche has claimed the lives of numerous Sherpas working near Camp 1. Preliminary reports from the mountain indicate that as many as 13 have been killed, with several more missing. Search and rescue efforts are still ongoing at this time, and all climbing activities have been suspended.

The avalanche came off of the West Shoulder, sweeping down the mountain as the Sherpas were shuttling gear up to Camp 1 and 2. There were few western climbers on the slopes at this point, as most were still acclimatizing in Base Camp, or on other nearby peaks. 

Alan Arnette has posted reports from major teams operating on Everest, and most didn't have any Sherpas involved in the accident. Those that did, suffered only minor injuries. There are quite a few smaller teams that guide climbers up the mountain, and presumably most of the dead were working with those companies.

Because of the size of this avalanche, and ongoing rescue operations, all of the climbers have been restricted to BC for now. Reports indicate that more than 150 people are stranded above the slide however, so some efforts will need to be made to help them get down. Helicopters will be brought in today to help retrieve bodies as well. 

If 13 Sherpas have indeed died in this avalanche, and all indications are that those numbers are accurate, it would be the single biggest accident in Everest history. That is a sad way to start the season, and once again the Sherpas are taking the brunt of the losses. Thankfully, this avalanche did not occur next week, when there likely to be more climbers in C1 and C2. The loss of life could have been considerably higher then. 

My condolences go out to the friends and families of the Sherpas who have perished on Everest today. I'm sure their loss will have an impact on the entire season as it unfolds. Lets hope that this isn't a sign of things to come, and that there are no more deaths on the mountain this spring. 

Video: Kathmandu To The Summit Of Everest Via Google Earth - Updated!

Updated: Okay, so the original video I placed here was suddenly password protected. I guess they didn't want us to see what they were showing off. So, I've replaced it with a classic clip from Alan Arnette that gives us great insight into an Everest climb up the South Col Route. Enjoy!

As is tradition in the spring, we've been talking a lot about Mt. Everest lately, and I thought you might like to see what the climbers are up against in the weeks ahead. The video below is a simple animation captured in Google Earth, that leaps from Kathmandu to the airport in Lukla, then up the Khumbu Valley to Everest, before proceeding up the South Side route to the summit. It's brief – just one minute in length – but it does put some things in perspective.

Everest 2014: Into The Icefall

Communications from Everest Base Camp on the South Side continue to be sporadic, as cloud cover and snowfall limit access to satellites and keep solar panels from charging the comms equipment. Still, there have been a few reports from the mountain the past few days, where the teams are busy making themselves at home, and starting to acclimatize to the altitude. The first groups have even begun to make their way through the dreaded Khumbu Icefall, as they prepare for their first rotations in Camp 1 and Camp 2.

As I've mentioned previously, the Icefall is a treacherous section of the climb that sits just above Base Camp on the Nepali side of the mountain. It marks the spot where the Khumbu Glacier begins to calve, which makes it highly unstable. Each year, a special team of Sherpas called the Icefall Doctors build and maintain a route through the Icefall using ladders and ropes. That route will shift and change throughout the season, forcing them to rebuild the route over the course of the three months that it is in place.

Crossing the Icefall is one of the scariest and most dangerous sections of Everest. As a result, teams will try to minimize the number of times that they have to pass through it while on the mountain. IN recent years, that has meant starting their acclimatization on other nearby mountains, such as Lobuche and Pumori. But even that just delays the inevitable, and as I write this, the first teams are venturing into the Icefall to get themselves use to walking on, and climbing, the ladders while wearing their heavy mountaineering boots. It can be a tricky bit of work, but most will become accustomed to it in short order.


The Sherpas have already moved through the Icefall multiple times at this point. Reports indicate that they have been as high as Camp 2 on the South Side, where they have begun building tents and storing gear for the acclimatization climbs, and ultimately the final summit push, ahead. All of this is according to schedule, and before long they'll begin the hard work of fixing the ropes up to Camp 3 and higher.

Since the comms blackout is preventing much news from coming from the mountain just yet, I'll make this a fairly short update. But before I close things out, I wanted to point out an excellent essay written by Melissa Arnot for National Geographic Adventure. It is entitled "Everest: Now and Then, Again and Again," and in it, she shares her thoughts on why Everest is such a special place, not only for her, but the hundreds of other climbers that go there every year. Melissa is back in Base Camp again this season, where she is looking to add two more summits to her resume. With five already under her belt, she holds the record for a western climber, and could claim the record outright if successful this season.

That's all for today. Hopefully the comms situation will be sorted out soon, and we'll start to hear from more of the individual climbers in the days ahead.

Everest 2014: Puja Ceremonies, Base Camp Arrivals and the Beginning Of The Climb

As expected, it was a busy weekend in the Himalayas, where most of the early teams have now arrived in Everest Base Camp on the South Side, or are en route to Chinese Base Camp on the North Side. After spending a couple of days getting settled in, most are now resting, acclimatizing, and going through a series of skills checks before they start their first forays up the mountain, where the weather reportedly remains cold and heavy snows have fallen.

One of the most important steps before anyone begins their climb on Everest is to take part in a Puja ceremony. During the Puja, a Buddhist monk blesses the climbers, and their gear, while asking for permission from the mountain for them to climb its slopes. The Puja is especially significant to the Sherpas, who generally won't go above Base Camp without first receiving the blessing. While it is conducted in all seriousness, and is marks the true start of the climb, the Puja is also a good opportunity for the climbers to get to know their teammates better, and celebrate ahead of the start of the serious work.

Over the past few days, a number of teams have completed their Puja ceremony and are now prepping for their first rotation up to Camp 1, or have left BC to acclimatize on one of the lesser peaks in the region, such as Lobuche. That's where the IMG team is at right now, and they hope to summit today, before heading back to Everest. Similarly, the Peak Freaks squad will be headed off to Island Peak for their acclimatization climb. After which, these climbers will venture into the Khumbu Icefall for the first time.


Several teams are reporting issues with their communications systems in BC at the moment, with Himex, RMI and the Altitude Junkies weighing in on the topic. The satellite BGAN system is not working properly, while the cell towers in Gorak Shep have intermittent access at best. Heavy cloud cover in the region is mostly to blame, as that won't just prevent satellite connections, but the cell towers are powered by solar panels. As the season progresses, clearer skies will make help to facilitate better comms, but for now they'll have to be patient.

My friend Gulnur Tumbat reached Base Camp last Friday, but the communications problems are preventing her from sharing too much about the experience just yet. She is hoping to become the first Turkish woman to summit Everest. Blind German climber Andy Holzer should be there now as well, as he looks to become the second person to summit without the use of his eyes. Melissa Arnot has not checked in just yet, but she should be settling into BC on the South Side as well.

If you're interested to know more about the logistics of an Everest climb, check out this article from Outside Online which introduces us to Adrian Ballinger, the founder of Alpenglow Expeditions. The company takes a unique approach to a climb up the highest mountain not he planet, that is both quicker and more expensive than most other guide services. It is an interesting read about how Adrian is trying to change the approach to climbing Everest, which he says has mostly gone unchanged for decades.

Expect some updates to begin to flow in from the Tibetan side of the mountain in the next few days. Base Camp on the North Side is still becoming fully operational, but there should be plenty of action to report there soon as well. I would expect a major team meeting to take place on the South Side this week, as they begin organizing the efforts to fix ropes to the summit. That isn't a concern on the North Side, where the Chinese take full responsibility for that process.

Once the comms situation is sorted out, I'm sure we'll start to get more news. For now, sit tight and know that things are just getting started.