Himalaya 2014: Summits Across the Himalaya!

As expected, there were a number of summit pushes across the 8000 meter peaks this past weekend, with climbers finding success on several mountains. It was a busy couple of days in the Himalaya, where teams sought to take advantage of a weather window, and top out during a period of relatively calm winds and good all around conditions.

We'll start on Kangchenjunga, where Denis Urubko summited the mountain solo after his teammates turned back out of fear of an unstable approach to the summit. Climbing along the North Face, Denis completed a new route that is a variant of the British Route used in the past. He has already returned to Camp 4, where his teammates, Alex Txikon, Adam Bielecki, Artjom Braun and Dmitri Sinev, were waiting. Alex and Adam had hoped to summit, and traverse down the South Face, but conditions were not good for such an attempt. All members of the team will now head down to Base Camp, and most likely prepare to head home.

On the South Side of Kangchenjunga, ExWeb is reporting that Spanish climber Carlos Soria has also topped out, nabbing his eleventh 8000-meter peak at the age of 75. He was joined on the summit by Italian Marco Camandona and Finnish climber Samuli Mansikka, who topped out without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Jumping over to Cho Oyu, Mike and Matt Moniz successfully topped out on Saturday, right on schedule. They had a very narrow weather window for their summit bid, as high winds are expected back on that mountain today. After setting out at 4 AM, the reached the summit at 11 AM that morning, before descending all the way back down to ABC before taking a rest. The father-son team had originally planned to now travel to the South Side of Everest, and attempt a double-summit of that mountain and Lhotse. With things shut down on the South Side however, we'll have to wait to see if they just head home instead.


Mike Horn and Fred Roux found success on Makalu on Saturday as well. They reached the summit of that 8463 meter (27,765 ft) mountain without supplemental oxygen or high altitude Sherpa support. Fred topped out at about 10:30 AM local time, while Mike followed along at 4:00 PM in the afternoon. That should give you an indication of how good the weather was, at that is late in the day for summit. Both men descended the mountain safely and reunited in ABC.

Other climbers who have reportedly topped out on Makalu this weekend include Serbian climber Dragan Celikovic, Canadians Al Hancock and Monique Richard, Norwegian Arvid Lennard Lahit, and  French alpinist Philippe Gatta with Pasang Gombu.

Not everyone was successful on Makalu however, as ExWeb reports that a team of Indian climbers led by Arjun Vajpai were forced to turn back just 150 meters below the summit due to exhaustion and a lack of fixed ropes going to the top. Other teams were in position to summit yesterday and today, but we'll have to wait for further confirmation on their success.

ExWeb also reports that there were 10 summits on Dhaulagiri this weekend as well, with clients of Seven Summits Treks topping out on Saturday that includes two Chinese climbers Jing Luo and Zhu Gang, Peruvian Rimac Trejo Victor and Nepalese clients Nirmal Purja and Krishna Thapa Magar.

Meanwhile, the climbers on Everest's North Side continue to wait for their turn to come. A weather window is now expected later this week so that rope fixing can be completed at long last. Most teams are now looking at making their summit push starting on Friday and extending into the weekend. We'll just have to wait to see how things play out then.

Stay tuned for more updates.

Himalaya 2013: Dhaulagiri Claims The Life Of Juanjo Garra

At the end of last week there was a developing story about Catalonian climber Juanjo Garra getting stranded on Dhaulagiri, an 8167 meter (26,795 ft) peak located in north-central Nepal. It seems that while he was descending from the summit following a successful climb, Juanjo's Sherpa guide, Kheshap Gurung, slipped and fell, dragging him down at the same time. In the fall, Juanjo broke his ankle, preventing him from being able to continue down the mountain and effectively stranding him at altitude.

After the story broke, we learned that Simone Moro was bringing his rescue helicopter to Dhaulagiri to lend a hand and other climbers were en route to help bring Garra down to an altitude where he could be flown off the mountain. Unfortunately that assistance couldn't get to Juanjo's position in time and over the weekend he succumbed to his injuries and prolonged exposure, passing away Sunday despite the best efforts of his rescuers. The ordeal was a long one for everyone involved, as Garra and Kheshap spent three days on the mountain without shelter or sleeping bags for protection. Kheshap was able to get down safely and is reportedly being treated for his injuries in Pokhara.

The efforts taken in a high altitude rescue are great but of course extremely dangerous. When the operation was first launched, three Sherpas from Everest were flown to Dhaula and dropped off with medical supplies at 6200 meters (20,341 ft). They were unable to reach Juanjo's position on the first day however and although they continued up the following day, bad weather prevented them from once again getting to Juanjo, who had been assisted down a few hundred meters by Kheshap.

During the second day, Simone was swept the slopes looking for the missing climber and his guide, but to no avail. He did located a missing Indian climber and helped bring him down the mountain however, so his efforts were still fruitful.

By the third day, a very strong team of climbers had assembled on the mountain to attempt a rescue of Garra. Bad weather once again prevented them from being shuttled up to as high of an altitude as they would have liked, but setting out from Camp 2 they still hoped to be of some assistance Meanwhile, the Sherpas from Everest did finally reach Juanjo's position where they immediately provided medical aid and much needed food and water. Despite those efforts however, the Catalonian passed away a short time later.

This is a sad story to cap the 2013 Himalayan season on. Like Everest, most of the other mountains in the region are now deserted and for something like this to happen near the end is just tragic. Garra was no doubt feeling good following his successful summit, only to have everything come crashing down a short time later. Surviving for nearly four days at altitude without shelter or food must have been brutal. My thoughts go out to Juanjo's friends and family int his sad time.

Those that so unselfishly lent a hand to the rescue efforts should be commended as well. They risked their own health and safety to try to save Garra. In addition to the Sherpas, climbers Dominik Mueller, Alex Txikon, Ferran Latorre and  Jorge Egocheaga showed the true spirit of the mountains by trying to assist their fallen friend. It is at times like these when we see how closely bonded the mountaineering community truly is.

Thanks to Asim Gupta for keeping me up to date on all of these efforts the past few days. With the long holiday weekend here in the States, I was away from my computer more than normal. It was sad to receive the final news after following the efforts for several days.

Himalaya 2013: Climber Stranded On Dhaulagiri

While things wrap up on Everest, elsewhere in the Himalaya there are other expeditions that are winding down as well. The past few days have not been good for numerous teams as there has been little summit success off of the Big Hill. Now, poor weather is moving in and closing down the mountains for the summer, as most of the teams pack up and prepare to head home.

The biggest news of the day is that Spanish climber Juanjo Garra is currently stranded on Dhaulagiri. Apparently Garra was descending yesterday along with his Sherpa guide from somewhere high up on the mountain. It is unclear if they two men made the summit or not, but on their way down the Sherpa slipped and fell, knocking Garra over as well. When he fell, the Spaniard broke his ankle, making it incredibly hard for him to move at all.

Reportedly, the two men bivouacked above 8000 meters and have now called for assistance in helping to get off the mountain. That includes asking Simone Moro to bring his rescue helicopter to the mountain in an effort to help get Garra down. Of course, the helicopter won't be able to conduct a rescue at 8000 meters, so other climbers may be en route to lend a hand. It has been suggested that Ferran Latorre and Alex Txikon may be headed to Dhaulagiri with the hopes of assisting rescue efforts. The two men completed a climb of Lhotse earlier in the week and are reportedly still in Everest Base Camp.

I'll try to post updates on this developing story as we get them.

Also on Dhaulagiri, Polish climber Pawel Michalski confirms that he turned back just 67 meters (220 feet) below the summit yesterday. He is descending back to BC today and says that he'll post more details once he has a better Internet connection. From the sounds of things, high winds were once again the culprit here, forcing him to descend even though his goal was so close.

Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia have turned back on their summit bid on Makalu. Once again, it was bad weather that did them in. Conditions looked promising yesterday so the duo pressed on in their attempt to top out on the 8481 meter (27,824 ft) mountain. They are descending now and hope to be back in BC later in the day.

Finally, the Adventure Consultants have posted some summit photos from Lhotse that complement their Everest summit shots from earlier. You can checkout the images here. Most of them include shots of Everest in the background. Looks like it was a good day to be at the top of the world.

More news from the Himalaya as it comes in. Things are now winding down across the board and by next week the entire region will be much more quiet.

Himalaya 2013: Kangchenjunga Claims Five Lives

Now that the dust is settling on Kangchenjunga, more information is filtering out about what happened there over the past few days. While there is news of multiple successful summits, it seems that the mountain has also claimed the lives of five people, making it one of the most deadly seasons in recent memory.

Yesterday I reported that Hungarian climbers Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss had spent the night without tents or sleeping bags at 8300 meters (27,230 ft) following a successful summit bid. The two men had been in touch with the support team and were letting them know that they were on the move, although it was slow going. At the time, they were attempting to reach Camp 4 to rest and collect supplies, but after that they lost contact and haven't been seen or heard from since. What happened to them remains unknown, but considering Kangchenjunga is one of the deadliest mountains in the world, it seems likely that they perished while trying to descend.

Unfortunately, Eross and Kiss weren't the only casualties on the mountain. An avalanche swept Korean climber Park Nam Su, as well as Phurba and Vivas Sherpa from the mountain. This incident apparently occurred higher up the slopes as another avalanche blew through Camp 2, causing damage there but not killing anyone. Like Annapurna, Kangchenjunga is notorious for its powerful and unpredictable avalanches.

ExWeb is reporting that 11 people reached the summit of Kangchen on Monday, May 20. In addition to Eross and Kiss, Iranian climber Raza Shahlai and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa topped out. There were two Korean climbers not far behind them. Catalonian climber Oscar Cadiach and Italian Mario Vielmo also topped out, as did Korean alpinist Kim Hong-bin. These successes have to be bittersweet at this point however, considering the number of climbers who turned back, as well as those who have lost their lives in the pursuit of the summit.
On Dhaulagiri Polish climber Pawel Michalski has returned to Camp 3 after making a final summit push. His website doesn't give much information but it does say that he reached 8100 meters (26,574 ft). If that is true, that means he came up just 67 meters (220 ft) short of the summit. It is always difficult to turn back when your objective is so close, but with weather conditions deteriorating rapidly, those final 67 meters could have been the difference between survival and struggling to get down alive. It appears that his expedition is over and Pawel will return to BC and then head home.

The outlook is better on Makalu, where Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia have now reached Camp 4. As of their last dispatch, the duo were resting and preparing for their summit push. If all goes according to plan, they should be on their way to the top today. The wether is reportedly good, although winds are still of concern.

Finally, the word from Cho Oyu is that high winds kept teams in place earlier in the week but they should be on the move again now. A weather window was expected to open starting yesterday, which means teams could be on a summit push now. We'll have to wait for confirmation on success or failure from that mountain soon.

More updates to come as we get news.

Himalaya 2013: Trouble On Kangchenjunga

As the final days unfold on Everest as similar drama is playing out on other mountains across the region. The summit push is on for many climbers who are now also racing the clock to beat what appears to be an impending shift in the weather. If that shift comes, it could mean that the entire Himalayan season will be over. The Monsoon is now just days away.

We'll start on Kangchenjunga today, where ExWeb is reporting that there is a difficult story still unfolding. Hungarian climbers Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss topped out on the 8586 meter (28,169 ft) peak – the third tallest in the world – on Monday. This a mountain with a fearsome reputation however, which they discovered on their descent. Exhausted from their climb, the two men were moving incredibly slowly and were forced to spend a night at 8300 meters (27,230 ft), most likely without a tent or shelter of any kind. Yesterday morning they told their home team that they were back on the move and feeling a bit better, but were still struggling to make progress. What has become of them since then is unknown, although it is believed that they may have been able to descend to Camp 4. Keep your fingers crossed. This is an evolving story at the moment and getting down from C4 will be no easy task.

And if things couldn't get any worse, there also appears to have been an avalanche on the mountain as well, which may have claimed the lives of Korean climber Park Nam SU and his Sherpa guide Phurba. That story is still coming out as well, but the news is that they are lost too.

Carlos Soria and Oscar Cadiach have abandoned their attempt on Kangchenjunga, coming up just short of the summit a few days back. Both men have returned to BC where they are resting before going home. High winds and some logistical issues kept them from reaching the summit, but they feel confident that they gave it their best shot and made the right decision in turning back.

Update: It seems Oscar did indeed summit Kangchenjunga on Monday and successfully returned to BC today. Oscar's partner Lluis Rafols turned back below the summit however. There are few details at this time, but congratulations to Oscar on completing this tough climb!

The Italian team that includes Annalisa Fioretti did manage to find some success, putting Mario Vielmo on the summit. It is unclear if anyone else on the team was with him at the time, but the entire group is back in BC and preparing to go home too. Update: Annalisa dropped me a note to let me know that while she did not summit, she did reach 8370 meters (27,460 ft) which is a new record for an Italian woman on Kangchenjunga.

Jumping over to Makalu, Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia spent an extra day in Camp 2 yesterday in an attempt to let winds die down near the summit. They hope to move up to C3 today, which would put them in a position to summit tomorrow if all goes well. There is still now word from Don Bowie however. He is also on Makalu and presumably part of any current summit pushes.

Finally, Polish climber Pawel Michalski was unable to go for the summit of Dhaulagiri yesterday due to hurricane force winds. He was hoping to give it a shot today, although there has been no word yet on whether or not that was possible. In his most recent dispatch, Pawel says that this is the final chance. Hopefully he is on his summit push now and all is proceeding according to plan.

More updates soon.

Himalaya 2013: Summits On Lhotse And Shishapangma

Moving away from Everest for now, there has been a host of activity across other peaks in the Himalaya these past few days as well. Weather has been an issue for the entire region, but a few climbers have been lucky enough to bag their summits while others continue to toil away and wait for their opportunity to move up.

Yesterday was a big day on Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain on the planet and Everest's neighbor. While the ropes to the summit on the Big Hill were completed last Friday, there were still a couple of hundred meters to go to finish that job on Lhotse. That work was wrapped up by a team consisting of climbers with the Himalayan Ascent squad as Chris Jensen Burke, Chirring Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa fixed the final ropes to the top. Their efforts not only gave them the honor of the first Lhotse summits of the season, they have now paved the way for other climbers to follow after them.

The weather cleared on Shishapangma late last week, allowing a number of climbers to top out on the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) peak. ExWeb reports that Fabrizio Silvetti, climbing with Asian Trekking, reached the Central Summit on Friday as did climbers from Kobler & Partner.  Two other climbers with Asian Trekking – Austrian Zoltan Benedek and Batmanlai Ulzli-Orshikh of Mongolia – also summited but whether or not they made the Central or Main Summit remains unclear. Benedek is now moving on to Everest North Side to attempt a Himalayan double-header.

Over on Makalu, Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia have now established their Camp 3 at 7450 meters (24,442 ft) and Sherpa teams have been working on Camp 4 at 7900 meters (25,918 ft). Having spent the night at C3, the duo are acclimatizing nicely and feel like they are strong enough for a summit bid soon. High winds are making that impossible at the moment and the forecast doesn't look good for the next few days. They'll likely now return to Base Camp and wait for conditions to improve. A summit bid could come early next week.

Oscar Cadiach is now ready for a summit push on Kangchenjunga. He and his climbing partner spent some time off the mountain trekking throughout the region while they waited for their health and the weather to improve. They went in search of the elusive snow leopard and came up empty, but did have a wonderful time at lower altitude before returning to BC. A weather window is expected to open on Thursday and they'll proceed up then. This could be a very narrow window, so they wanted to take advantage of it while they can. On a mountain such as this one, this could be the only chance they get to reach the summit.

Italian climber Annalisa Fioretti is on Kangchenjunga as well and is back in Base Camp following a trip up to Camp 2 and 3. She reports poor weather continues with winds and lots of fog. The team will be attempting their climb without oxygen and they are getting eager to move up, but as elsewhere in the Himalaya, the weather will determine when that will happen. Annalisa reports, via her home team/husband Luca, that a team of six climbers and three Sherpas are making a summit bid right now, but after several days on the mountain, there has been no word about the progress. Lets keep our fingers crossed that everyone is okay.

Finally, Polish climber Pawel Michalski continues to sit and wait in BC on Dhaulagiri. Bad weather, with hurricane force winds, is keeping him at the base of the mountain while he waits for things to improve. There have been few updates in the past few days, but presumably his weather window could come at the end of the week as well, allowing him to begin a summit push too. We'll just have to stay tuned to see if that happens.

It is now the clam before the storm in the Himalaya. If all goes according to schedule, in two days time there will be a lot of teams, on a lot of mountains, back on the move.

Himalaya 2013: High Winds Across The Region, Summit Push Begins On Dhaulagiri

While everything has come to a standstill on Everest, I thought it was best to check how things are progressing on some of the other mountains across the region. Turns out high winds are pretty much the hot topic everywhere as climbers struggle to complete the acclimatization efforts ahead of eventual summit pushes ahead. But for now, many of them are stuck in Base Camp, just like their brethren over on the Big Hill.

There is good news from Pawel Michalski, the polish climber who is attempting the 8167 meter (26,795 ft) Dhaulagiri. After waiting out some nasty weather last week, it seems things have taken a turn for the better. Michalski launched his summit bid yesterday, arriving in Camp 1 at 5800 meters (19,028 ft). He reports that snow conditions are good and that the forecast is favorable for him to continue up the mountain. With any luck, he'll be topping out late this week. Good luck to Pawel and his team.

Unfortunately, nearly everyone else is reporting bad weather that is preventing them from moving higher. For instance, Kinga Baranowska reports that she and her climbing partner Rafal Fronia are back in BC on Makalu. They have managed to establish Camp 2 at 6670 meters (21,883 ft) and have carried a load of gear up to the location of C3 at 7200 meters (23,622 ft). Those efforts have helped with acclimatization, but high winds have now forced them down. The forecast for the next few days remains sketchy as well and it looks unlikely that they'll be able to move back up before the weekend at the earliest.

Also on Makalu this spring is Don Bowie, who will also be returning to Base Camp today, although he'll be coming from the other direction. In his latest dispatch, Don says that just as he was getting ready to begin the actually climbing part of his expedition he got ill from a bug going around BC. He was so sick in fact that he temporarily abandoned the mountain in favor of the village of Yanglekharka, which is found down the valley at 3962 meters (13,000 ft). Don spent four nights in the tiny settlement as he let his body get healthy once again. With his strength finally returning, he's heading back up to truly get his expedition started, but with the high winds in place, it may be tough to make much progress in the next few days.

The winds are keeping 72-year old Spaniard Carlos Soria in Base Camp as well. The grizzled veteran of numerous climbs in the Himalaya is on Kangchenjunga where he is looking to nab his 12th 8000-meter peak. Updates from Nepal indicate that Carlos is in BC and watching the weather. When the winds shift sometime in the next few days, he'll launch his summit bid at last.

Oscar Cadiach is also Kangchenjunga this spring and managed to establish Camp 3 on the mountain. But his team also reports nasty winds that are keeping them in Base Camp where they occupy their time playing cards and chess or just about anything else that will keep their mind off of the work that still lies ahead. Forecasts indicate improvements are coming on Friday, Oscar and his companions will look to be on the move again then.

Italian climber Annalisa Fioretti and her team have returned to BC on Kangchenjunga too with the same reports of extremely high winds on the mountain. After establishing Camp 3 at 7000 meters (22,965 ft) earlier in the week, the group now waits for a weather window too. The entire team is attempting the climb without the use of supplemental oxygen, so they are being cautious about when they begin their ascent.

Finally, the news from Lhotse obviously mirrors what is taking place on Everest. The lines are now fixed up to Camp 4 and the Sherpa teams are expected to finish placing the ropes up to the summit by Friday. After that, the road will be clear for the climbers to begin their ascents. A narrow weather window is expected to open this weekend, but I suspect most of the Lhotse climbers will delay until a second – longer – window is set to open sometime next week.

That's all for now. The winds are dictating when anyone can move at the moment, so like these teams, we mostly sit an wait.

Himalaya 2013: More Teams Prep For Altitude

While the teams on Everest move up and down the slopes acclimatizing, the Sherpas are busy continuing their rope fixing. Yesterday they reached Camp 4 on both Everest and Lhotse, and it is now believed that they'll reach the summit by Sunday or Monday at the latest. Elsewhere across the region, climbers are going about their business on other mountains as well as they play the waiting game, continue to prepare their bodies for the thin air and keep one eye on the weather.

Over on Kangchenjunga, the incomparable Carlos Soria is working on his 12th eight thousand meter peak. The 74-year old Soria is currently in Base Camp on the mountain, which is the third tallest in the world at 8586 meters (28,169 ft). He has already acclimatized up to Camp 1 however, which is located 6600 meters (21,653 ft). He'll head back up the mountain this weekend as he prepares for a summit push in a few weeks time. If successful here, he'll have just Dhaulagiri and the always difficult Annapurna to add to his resume.

Speaking of Dhaulagiri, Polish climber Pawel Michalski is in a holding pattern while he waits for the weather to improve. He reports high winds high on the slopes are preventing any kind of summit push at the moment. The forecast calls for improved conditions after the weekend, so perhaps he'll have a crack at the top sometime early next week.

Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia have moved up to Camp 2 on Makalu as they continue their acclimatization efforts. the weather forecast on that peak calls for unstable conditions in the days ahead and temperatures have been cold recently. But the weather isn't bad enough to keep the climbers off the mountain and they're taking any opportunity they can in order to get their rotations in.

Don Bowie is also on Makalu and doing his best to get ready for the eventual summit push as well. In his latest dispatch he shares the second part of his journey into Base Camp. He notes that the mountain looms over the climbers in BC, giving them both a beautiful and terrifying view of the summit. A place that he knows he'll eventually be trying to reach.

On Lhotse the climbers looking to scale that peak should be heading up to Camp 3 this weekend as part of their rotation. With the ropes now fixed to C4, the anticipation of what is to come must be palpable. Once the Sherpas are finished running the lines to the summit of Everest, they'll turn their attention to Lhotse as well. It should take just another couple of days to wrap up that work, and then the summit pushes can begin there as well.

Back on Everest itself, we have word today that Denis Urubko has rejoined his teammate Alexei Bolotov in Base Camp after spending some time resting down in the Khumbu Valley. The two men intend to go back up to 7000 meters (22,965 ft) to acclimatize a bit longer. After that, they intend to launch their alpine style, no oxygen attempt along a new route on the Southwest Face.

Good luck to everyone climbing this weekend. Stay safe!

Himalaya 2013: Summits On Shisha!

With all of the drama surrounding Everest over the past couple of days, it is easy to forget that there are plenty of other expeditions in the Himalaya this spring. In fact, while the teams on Everest continue to toil away on acclimatization rotations, elsewhere in the region other teams are already bagging summits.  A spate of good weather has been a welcome respite from conditions earlier in the season and climbers are now taking advantage of it to climb higher.

Last week we had our first summits of the season on Makalu and this week we have more successful summits, this time on Shisha Pangma. Earlier today a team that included Austrian climber Rupert Hauer,  Turkish climber Tunç Findik and Germans Luis Stitzinger and Alix von Melle reached the top of the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) mountain, which is the 14th tallest in the world, but the smallest of the 8000 meter peaks.

Others currently on Shisha but apparently not apart of this current summit bid include Spanish cilmber Rosa Fernandez, Germans Cleo Weidlich and Thomas Laemmle. Each seems to have wrapped up the acclimatization and will be looking for a weather window this coming weekend.


Over on Dhaulagiri, Polish climber Pawel Michalski is back in Base Camp after spending a few nights at Camp 2. He reports very high winds at altitude, which forced him back down the mountain. He should be close to wrapping up his acclimatization efforts as well and will most likely be looking for a weather window in the next week or so too.

Kinga Baranowska has completed her first foray up Makalu, establishing Camp 1 at 6300 meters (20,669 ft) and then pressing on to build C2 at 6600 meters (21,653 ft) before heading back to BC. She reports an inordinate number of crevasses between the two camps, which will make for slow going when moving up the slope. She also says there is less snow there this year, although plenty of ice. A good set of crampons will be in order. After spending a few days in BC, she and her teammate Rafal Fronia are now moving back up amidst good weather to spend a few nights at their higher camps. They will likely be scouting for a good location for Camp 3 while they are there.

Finally, teams aiming for a summit on Lhotse are patiently waiting for their opportunity to come. As you know, those climbers share the same Base Camp and route up to C3 as the Everest climbers, so much of their progress is the same. Right now, that means its all about acclimatization rotations and most teams are now on their way to Camp 3 or are already spending time there. While the Sherpas work to fix the lines to the summit of Everest, which will likely be completed early next week, the Lhotse climbers will have to remain patient and wait. The Sherpas will first complete the lines up Everest, then Lhotse and finally Nuptse. The teams will then proceed up in roughly that order.

Lots more action in the Himalaya to come. Stay tuned for more update.

Himalaya 2013: First Summit Of The Season!

While the climbers on Everest head into the weekend completely focused on their acclimatization, elsewhere in the Himalaya other teams are going about their work as well. Most are in the midst of their rotations as well as they prepare for their eventual summit bids, but one climber has already knocked off his objective, claiming the first 8000 meter summit of the season.

ExWeb is reporting that Iranian climber Azim Ghychisaz successful reached the summit of the 8481 meter (27,825 ft) Makalu. Azim reported topped out on Wednesday after spending jus two weeks on the mountain. He was the first person in Base Camp this spring and while others have now joined him, his early arrival allowed him to get a head of the other teams and nab the early season summit. This is Azim's 11th 8000-meter peak. He still has Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma to add to his resume. Congratulations on a job well done.

Also in Makalu BC this spring is Don Bowie who has written a good account of what it is like just to travel to Nepal and begin the trek to Base Camp ahead of the climb. If you've never made the trip yourself, it is a blur of airplanes and airports that takes the better part of two days to complete and that is just to get to Kathmandu. After that, its a flight out to Lukla just to get on the trail that will eventually take you to Everest, Makalu or any number of other peaks. It is quite the journey just begin the climb.

The Polish team of Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia held their Puja ceremony in Makalu BC on Wednesday which allows them to officially launch their expedition. They immediately started lugging gear up the slopes and were expected to establish Camp 1 yesterday. Weather has been more dependable across the region the past few days, so it is likely that they've been able to complete that task and are now planning their strategy for moving higher.

Over on Dhaulagiri, Polish climber Pawel Michalski is on the move. Yesterday he spent seven hours climbing from BC up to Camp 1 and he plans to continue up to C2 today. After suffering horrible weather this past week, he is happy to be on the move once again. This is just a normal acclimatization rotation at this point, which will help his body to adjust to the thinner air at altitude.

Finally, on Lhotse most of the teams are following the same schedule as their Everest counterparts. Remember, the two climbs share the same route up to Camp 3 before veering off in different directions. The fixed ropes up the Lhotse face are expected to be in place by Monday, which means both Everest and Lhotse climbers will be looking to head up to C3 shortly there after. So far, everything is moving according to plan and right on schedule. Just like clockwork.

More soon.

Himalaya 2013: Action Away From Everest

While the bulk of my coverage from the Himalaya this season has centered around Everest thus far, it is important to note that there are plenty of climbers on other mountains in the region as well. Just like their companions on the Big Hill, these climbers have quietly been going about their work, acclimatizing and preparing for eventual summit pushes. Here is a sample of some other expeditions that are taking place this spring.

As you would expect, Lhotse (8516 m/27,940 ft) is a popular target for climbers once again this year. The peak, which is located just next door to Everest, shares the same route much of the way. Climbers make the approach along the South Side of the mountain with the paths diverging after Camp 3. As a result, the climbers share much of the same experience including spending their days in Base Camp, trekking through he Khumbu Icefall and spending their time in Camps 1 and 2. Several of the big commercial expeditions operating on Everest also have smaller teams heading to the summit of Lhotse including the Adventure Consultants and Himex.

The 8481 meter (27,825 ft) Makalu seems to be a popular destination for climbers this spring. It is the 5th tallest mountain on the planet and can be found a short distance to the southeast of Everest. Some of the climbers who are currently on that mountain include Don Bowie, who will be climbing alone, but as he says he won't be solo. He is sharing Base Camp with 15 other people, including Kinga Baranowska. She arrived in BC yesterday and reports two other teams now on site. ExWeb is reporting that young Indian climber Arjun Vajpai is also hoping to bag Makalu this spring. The 19-year old alpinist has already managed to successfully summit Everest, Lhotse and Manaslu, and now he's looking to add another 8000-meter peak to his already impressive resume.
Polish mountaineer Pawel Michalski is reporting in from Dhaulagiri (8167 m/26,795 ft), a massive peak located in central Nepal, not far from Annapurna. He says that the weather has been terrible the past few days, as we've seen on Everest as well. He's been spending his time in Base Camp, waiting for an opportunity to go up, which may actually come today. Reports indicate that the weather improved across the region yesterday which is allowing climbers to get back on the move as they continue their acclimatization process.

Journalist Billi Bierling is once again writing the dispatches for the Himex team but she has returned to the Himalaya this spring for another climb of her own. Over the past couple of years she's managed to knock off both Everest and Lhotse and now she's turning her attention on Nuptse. This 7861 meter (25,791 ft) mountain is less than 2 km from Everest and is another popular peak in the Khumbu Valley. Billi has already had a bout with High Altitude Pulmonary Edema, better known as altitude sickness, and was forced to drop to a lower altitude to recover. She seems to be feeling better now and is moving slowly back up to EBC. Hopefully she'll be okay to continue her climb, but only time will tell if her body has grown accustomed to the thinner air.

That's all for now. I'm sure there are some other excellent expeditions taking place on other mountains. I'll be sure to try to keep up with them and share news of their progress throughout the weeks ahead.

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: News From Everest And Lhotse

The fall Himalaya climbing season is slowly grinding to a halt as the jet stream seems to have already shifted across the region, bringing unpredictable weather conditions and high winds with it. That hasn't deterred a few climbers that remain on their mountains, hoping to get one last weather window that will allow them access to the summit. Two mountains that still have climbers in place are Everest and Lhotse, where teams are moving up although their chance at success remains very much up in the air.

One climber that has set some ambitious goals for himself this fall is Nobukazu Kuriki who is attempting a true solo summit of Everest without oxygen and along the West Ridge no less. According to updates on has Facebook and Twitter pages, Kuriki arrived in Camp 2 yesterday amidst high winds, which he is hoping will die down in the next day or two. The forecast indicates that low pressure could settle over Everest this weekend, giving him an opportunity to make a summit bid, but for now he sits and waits to see if he'll be able to move up. The Japanese climber has been sharing videos of his progress and you'll find his most recent video below.

Alan Arnette says that this is Kuriki's fourth attempt on Everest , with his most recent expedition taking place last fall. He also has solo climbs on  Denali, Aconcagua, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Carstensz Pyramid, while also knocking off 8000 meter climbs on Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Dhaulagiri.

Meanwhile, Alan also reports that the Korean team that I mentioned last week is still attempting the South Col route on Everest, although there has been no updates on their progress. Similarly, the Polish team on Lhotse, which shares much of the same route as Everest, is reportedly still on the mountain and still hoping to summit as well. Last week we knew that they had reached as high as Camp 4 on the mountain, which means they should be well acclimatized and read to go, weather permitting.

Finally, over on Dhaulagiri teams have called it quits for the season as well. Carlos Soria has decided that the mountain is simply too unstable to attempt a summit bid, so the 74-year old Spaniard is heading home, saying that he has learned that you must climb the mountain in the spring, when conditions are more stable. The Summit Climb team, led by Dan Mazur, came to that same conclusion a few days back and that squad is headed home too.

That means it is all eyes on Everest and Lhotse to see how we'll finish out the season.

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: Summit Bid Aborted On Dhaulagiri

Late yesterday I mentioned that several teams had launched their summit bids on Dhaulagiri and that if everything went according to plan, they would summit in the next day or two. One of those teams was the SummitClimb squad, who had moved up to Camp 3 yesterday and intended to proceed on to C4 today. But it turns out conditions were not good and according to their latest update, which came via a Tweet, the team has elected to return to Camp 1. 

SummitClimb leader Dan Mazur sent out the following dispatch earlier today which gives us an idea of what is going on. The tweet simply read: "TEAM TURNS ROUND @0330HRS. UNSTABLE SNOW. EVERYONE OK. NOW HEADED DOWN TO CAMP 1."

Obviously the climbers came across dangerous snows on their way up to Camp 4 this morning and decided that the best course of action was to play it safe and head back down the mountain. Considering the recent tragedy on Manaslu, that was a good idea, but now we'll have to wait to see if they can get another crack at the summit. Weather forecasts indicate that the jet stream could be ready to make its semi-annual shift, which could put an end to all climbs sometime in the next few days.

There hasn't been any news on whether 73-year old Carlos Soria and his team continued with their summit attempt, but Carlos knows these mountains well and respects how prone to avalanches they can be. My guess is that he wouldn't head up to the top if he felt the risks were too high. (Update: ExWeb now reports that Soria descended as well due to high winds. He will wait to see if there is a nother chance at the summit.)

Meanwhile, over on Manaslu, the teams have now all returned safely to Base Camp and are waiting to depart back to Kathmandu. The climbers with the Altitude Junkies, including Edita Nichols, are all in the village of Sama Goan today, but bad weather has grounded the helicopters so there will be no ride out until tomorrow at the earliest.

The Mountain Professionals are also in BC, but they report in their latest dispatch that the descent back down the mountain was a hairy one. While they were up at the high camps, a number of large crevasses opened up between C1 and BC. That made for a challenging descent although they all returned safely as well. They plan to descend to Sama Goan tomorrow and fly back to Kathmandu on Friday.

Finally, while Billi Bierling awaits an second opportunity to summit Makalu, Outside magazine has posted a profile of the journalist/mountaineer. Much of what they write was taken from a post that Billi made to her blog a few days back, but it is an interest read about this well-connected climber who has topped out on some impressive Himalayan peaks in the past few years.

Most expeditions will be winding down in the next week or so, but there are still some opportunities for summits on various peaks in the region. If the weather holds out, expect another push in the next few days. 

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: Summit Push Begins On Dhaulagiri

While teams continue to wrap up their summit bids on Manaslu and other wait for another chance on Makalu, it seems a summit push has begun on Dhaulagiri. If the weather holds and things stay on schedule, there should be several teams topping out on the mountain in the next few days.

Amongst those teams is the SummitClimb squad who spent yesterday resting in Camp 2 at 6560 meters (21,517 ft). They should be proceeding up to C3 today and if the schedule holds they may be able to top out as early as Thursday or Friday of this week.

Similarly, ExWeb is reporting that 73-year old Carlos Soria is on his summit push and could reach the top of the mountain later tonight. Carlos' home team shared that news earlier in the day and posted the video below. While the entire thing is in Spanish, it does feature some nice shots from Dhaulagiri and gives us all an idea of what conditions are like on the mountain.

Like Annapurna and Manaslu, Dhaulagiri is also very avalanche prone. Conditions are said to be stable on the upper slopes, but lets keep our fingers crossed for the climbers who are headed up in the next few days. With a  little luck and good judgement, they'll all get down safely.

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: More Climbers Head Home, While Other Head Up

It has been a long and difficult week in the Himalaya where climbers are still dealing with the devastating news from Manaslu this past weekend. But there is a sense of normalcy returning to the mountain and with it comes a renewed focus on climbing the mountain. Tomorrow some of the climbers will begin their summit bid, while others have decided to call it quits and head home.

The Altitude Junkies had three team members depart Base Camp yesterday and today they report that two more will now join them. They'll all descend to the village of Sama Goan where they'll catch a lift by helicopter back to Kathmandu. While sad to see their friends leave, the rest of the team has plenty of work to do. They'll start their summit bid tomorrow by climbing up to Camp 1 with an eye on topping out on Sunday or Monday of next week.

Also heading up is Edita Nichols, who reports that Sherpa teams have already visited Camp 1 and 2 to evaluate stability on the mountain. Her team won't move forward until the Sherpas say it is safe to do, but they anticipate starting the climb in the next day or two as well.

One of the squads that has decided to leave Base Camp and return home is the IMG team. Following a meeting with the entire crew, the experienced leaders of the expedition elected to pull the plug in no small part due to the continued instability on the slopes. They sent their Sherpas up the mountain this morning to collect their gear in Camp 1 and 2 with a plan to depart BC this afternoon. They should be resting comfortably in Sama Goan now and will fly back to Kathmandu tomorrow.



Skier Greg Hill has posted his account of the tragic events from earlier in the week, which you can read here. He was one of the climbers who was in Camp 3 when the avalanche hit, preparing to move up to Camp 4 before proceeding on to the summit. He was hoping to make a no-oxygen ski descent of Manaslu and now feels that it is simply pure luck that he is alive. Greg doesn't indicate if he'll continue his attempt or if he will now head home. I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

Elsewhere in the Himalaya, far away from the tragedy on Manaslu, other teams are continuing with their expedition. There hasn't been any word from Billi Bierling in a week, although reports are that teams have moved up to Camp 3 on Makalu and may be preparing for their first summit bids. Similarly, ExWeb reported yesterday that 73-year old Carlos Soria was making progress on Dhaulagiri, having established Camp 2 and working on building C3 as well. We should hopefully have good news from those mountains soon as well.

Good luck to all the climbers planning summit attempts across the region in the days ahead. Be safe out there.

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: Teams In BC And Beyond

Last week when I posted about the emerging 2012 fall season in the Himalaya it was to report that most of the teams were arriving in Kathmandu and making their way out their respective Base Camps across the region. Now, a week later, several of those teams have not only established their BC but have started the process of acclimatization and building their high camps as well.

The Mountain Professional squad has spent the past few days acclimatizing in Sama Gaon, a small village in the shadow of Manaslu. They plan on heading up to BC today where they'll spend the next few days getting settled before going higher. Modern base camps are much more comfortable than in the in past, with many climbers bringing a number of tech toys with them to keep them connected and in communication back home. As a result, one of the first things that they'll do is set up the solar panels to help power all of their electronic gear as well as establish their lights and communications equipment too.

Meanwhile, the IMG team has been on the mountain since last week and even had their Puja ceremony on Thursday. That traditional blessing allows them to begin their climb up the mountain, which they did yesterday by making the first trek up to Camp 1, located at 5700 meters (19,695 ft). After spending last night at that altitude, they'll now continue up to Camp 2 today (6400m/20,992 ft) before returning to BC for a rest. The logistics team reports that the Sherpas have stocked both camps with gear and that more than 600 meters of rope have been fixed leading up to Camp 1 and an additional 600 meters to Camp 2. They also report that the route is in good condition early on in the season.

Over on Makalu, Billi Bierling reports that her squad has arrived in Advanced Base Camp at 5400 meters (17,716 ft) yesterday. On the entire trek to the mountain Billi has noted that there is a distinct lack of trekkers and climbers in the region this so far this year and ABC is no exception. As of yesterday they were the only squad on the mountain.

Finally, 73-year old Carlos Soria doesn't appear to be slowing down one bit. He had intended to climb Kangchenjunga this fall, which is the third highest mountain on the planet at 8586 meters (28,168 ft). Due to the continued closure of the Tibetan border however, he has instead turned his attention on Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795 ft). Carlos is expected to arrive in Base Camp today and will begin climbing the mountain later this week. The Spaniard hopes to become the oldest person to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks. Good luck Carlos!