Video: Alan Arnette Presents Summiting Nepal's Manaslu

A few days back I shared details of a live stream of Alan Arnette's presentation of his Summiting Manaslu slideshow that was brought to us courtesy of Jon Miller of the Rest of Everest Fame. The event was your opportunity to not only learn about an 8000 meter climb, but also get to hear Alan speak. It was a fun, interesting experience for sure, and it included a major announcement about a Himalayan expedition that 16-year old Matt Moniz that you'll be hearing a lot about in the weeks ahead. Both spoke at a fundraiser for the dzi Foundation, an organization dedicated to improving the lives people living in Nepal.

If you missed the event, Jon has kindly posted it online so you can watch it for yourself. It contains some great info about climbing Manaslu specifically and 8000 meter peaks in general. The video is more than an hour in length, so get comfortable.

Watch Alan Arnette's Summiting Manaslu Presentation Live On YouTube Tonight!

Last fall, Alan Arnette added another 8000 meter peak to his already impressive resumé when he successfully reached the summit of Manaslu. At 8156 m (26,759 ft) in height, it is the eighth highest mountain in the world and a challenging climb, although not in the same league as some of the other big Himalayan peaks.

Since his return from the climb last October, Alan has been giving a series of talks about the expedition, sharing his insights about climbing in the Himalaya in general and about Manaslu specifically. But unless you live in Colorado, chance are you haven't gotten a chance to see Alan's presentation. That can change tonight, as the slide show is going to be broadcast live over the Internet starting at 6 PM local time, which 8 PM EST/7PM CST.

The event is being broadcast on the Rest of Everest YouTube channel, which you can access by clicking here. This will be a great opportunity to see Alan in action and learn more about climbing in the Himalaya. It should be a fun and interesting experience for sure.

Himalaya Fall 2013: News From Annapurna And Lunag-Ri, Summit Bids Over On Manaslu

We have more news from the Himalaya today as a couple of teams we've been waiting to hear from check in at last. But before we get to those high profile climbs there is also an update from Manaslu where it seems a busy and active season is about to come to an end.

Earlier in the week we knew that a several teams were attempting to summit Manaslu as a window of good weather was expected to appear over the past few days. It turns out the weather did not improve as forecasts indicated and as a result, the teams moving up the mountain had a much tougher time than expected. A dispatch from Adventure Peaks has all the details, but in a nutshell the climber were ascending in thigh-deep snow only to find that Camps 2 and 3 were completely destroyed by heavy snows and high winds. The effort they put in just to rebuild those camps was very taxing and at one point the Sherpas were forced to spend the night in a tent without sleeping bags because their bags had been buried under fresh powder.

Despite those challenges however the team still considered moving higher. But when they left C3 they discovered that the fixed ropes had been buried in snow and ice as well and were unusable. That was the final straw for the expedition with all climbers turning back and descending to Camp 2 safely. With conditions this bad so late in the season, it seems that the Adventure Peaks team will definitely head home and it is likely that others will too. It appears that the end of the season has arrived at last on Manaslu.

Elsewhere however the climbs continue. There have been no further updates from Annapurna, where yesterday we learned that Ueli Steck topped out solo on the mountain's South Face. That is an incredible climb and the entire mountaineering world is waiting to hear more details. At the moment, we believe that Ueli is back in Base Camp with his partner  Don Bowie, but what their next move is remains to be seen. Their permit runs through November 15, so it is possible they will attempt to go up again provided Don is feeling strong and ready to try to reach the top too. For now, we'll all have to wait for more information.
Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb have checked in from their Lunag-Ri expedition at last. Over the past two weeks they have been acclimatizing by trekking through the Rolwaling Valley and into the Khumbu. Along the way they took their time to let their bodies adjust to the altitude while David fought off an infection that was causing him to have a nasty toothache. They've now made their way into Namche Bazaar where they will spend a day or two resting before proceeding up to Lunag-Ri Base Camp. They expect to arrive there tomorrow where they'll begin their climb at last.

That's pretty much the news for today. There are still some major climbs taking place on Lhotse of course but there hasn't been any updates while the teams there wait for improved weather. Time is starting to run short for the Italian squad, whose permits has been extended to Oct. 27, but the Koreans are still getting themselves established. With any luck, we'll hear more on their progress soon too.

Himalaya Fall 2013: More Summit Bids Underway On Manaslu

Despite the fact that a number of commercial teams have wrapped up operations for the fall climbing season in the Himalaya, some climbers still have work ahead of them and are hoping to nab summits before they head home. This is the case on Manaslu in particular, which has been an active mountain so far this fall. It seems the weather there has improved over the past day or two and a new window is set to open. That has launched a new round of summit bids with climbers hoping to top out in the next few days.

ExWeb is reporting that the remaining teams on Manaslu left Base Camp on Sunday with the hopes of taking advantage of good weather that is suppose to start today and run into the weekend. Amongst those teams is an expedition from the British Army and a group led by Adventure Peaks. Those squads are due into Camp 3 today and are looking to go up to the summit either tomorrow or Thursday. There are another couple of teams that are still in BC as well after having just wrapped up their acclimatization rotations. They'll hope for another window next week as well.

While we're on the subject of Manaslu, Alan Arnette has returned from Nepal and posted his final trip report to his blog. It is a detailed and lengthy read that is definitely worth your time as it not only shares good information about a climb on this particular mountain but excellent insights into a Himalayan expedition in general. Alan also posted the video below which will take you through the climb as well, starting in the busy, chaotic streets of Kathmandu and going all the way to the summit of the mountain.

Over on Shishapangma, ExWeb is also reporting that teams are giving up their summit bids due to the high danger of avalanches on that particular mountain. Heavy snows on the upper slopes have made things dangerous and unstable, which has forced all the climbers to abandon their attempts. There were only a couple of summits on Shisha this fall and it has been one of the more elusive summits of the season.

Things aren't looking great on Lhotse either where high winds and snow continue to hit the mountain. The Italian squad remains in Base Camp even as the clock ticks towards the end of their expedition. The two climbers have already sought an extension but at the moment things are not looking good. They have had little chance to acclimatize at altitude and there is still a lot of work to be done before they could even think of attempting the summit or skiing back down. Their reports indicate that winds are howling at 80-90 km/hr (50-56 mph) in BC and are worse higher up the slope. For now, they sit and wait for an opportunity.

That's it for today. Hopefully more new soon!

Himalaya Fall 2013: More Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu

As predicted there has been another round of summits across the Himalaya this week as good weather allowed teams to move up in relatively stable conditions. So far the fall climbing season has gone pretty much by the book with few major issues or problems. There are still some major expeditions under way of course, but it seems that a number of the larger commercial operations are wrapping up their fall itineraries and starting to head home.

It has been a productive season on Manaslu where there have been two major summit pushes within the past week or so. More teams reached the top on that mountain yesterday with Chris Jensen Burke being amongst them. She sent an audio dispatch announcing the team's success and letting friends and family know that everyone had come back down the mountain safely. Her squad was just one of a number of groups to summit yesterday with more expected to top out today.

Over on Cho Oyu there has been a similar level of activity over the course of the season and the past few days. Several commercial squads topped out over the past few days including the IMG team as well as climbers from Amical Alpin and Adventure Peaks. The weather has remained stable on the mountain all through the season, which has helped facilitate safe climbing on the mountain. The most recent summiteers have already returned to Base Camp and are resting up before the trek home.

The weather hasn't remained quite so consistent on Shishapangma however and a number of teams have turned back on their summit bids there. Rich Emerson of the Ski Shisapangma squad turned back on his second summit attempt due to an excessive amount of soft snow around the summit. He was able to get within 450 meters (1476 ft) once again but conditions wouldn't allow him to go any higher. He is now back in BC and intends to wrap up the expedition tomorrow. Meanwhile, 74-year old Carlos Soria  climbed as high as C3 on his summit bid before the weather forced him to retreat as well. He has gone back down the mountain to BC to re-evaluate his choices. Fresh snow and high winds made for poor visibility high on the mountain, which brought an end to summit bids. At least for now.

On Lhotse, the Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli continue to have their struggles. The two men went back up to Camp 1 a few days ago and found it in disarray due to recent storms. They rebuilt their campsite and dug out their tent, which was buried in snow both inside and out. They then spent a terrible night there in which Ed was sick once again and Federico's sleeping bag had a broken zipper, which made for a long, cold evening in the tent. They had intended to go up to Camp 2, but with their situation being less than ideal, they moved back down to BC instead. They hope to fix the sleeping bag and we're told that Ed's illness has more to do with food poisoning than altitude, so they'll push back up the mountain in another day or two. Meanwhile, the Korean team that has joined them in BC has built a path through the Khumbu Icefall and is preparing for their first acclimatization rotation soon as well.

Finally, there continues to be no updates from Ueli Steck and Don Bowie on their attempt to climb Annapurna. They checked in a few days back saying they had gone up the mountain to as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) but were back in BC at the time. For now, we wait to hear about their plans. Similarly, Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb have yet to check in from Lunag Ri. Presumably they are still en route to the mountain and will begin sharing dispatches once they get settled. At 6895 meters (22,621 ft), that peak is the tallest unclimbed mountain in all of Nepal. It should be interesting to follow both of these expeditions moving forward.

That's all for now. More news from the Himalaya when there is something to share.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Second Round of Summit Bids Underway

After successful summits across the Himalaya last week a brief period of bad weather fell across much of the region. But this week things are clearing up and a new weather window is seems to be opening. These improved conditions are allowing a second round of summit pushes as climbers on various mountains make their move to top out. Over the next few days we should see more summits as the fall climbing season begins to heat up once again.

One of the most active mountains during last week's round of summit bids was Manaslu, where it is estimated that approximately 60 climbers topped out. Amongst them was Alan Arnette who posted a brief account of his summit bid on his blog. Alan calls the summit of Manaslu the scariest spot he has ever been in his climbing career, which includes Everest, thanks in no small part to its narrow approach ridge which had a drop of over 3000 feet (914 meters) on either side. As always, Alan provides good insights into climbing on the big peaks, but this dispatch was a bit short due to technical issues. He promises a longer account of the climb once he has returned home.

The work isn't wrapped up on Manaslu just yet however as more teams are making their summit bids this week. A number of international climbers, including teams from Romania, Spain and Italy, amongst others, are headed to Camp 3 today and should be looking to top out on Thursday of this week provided the weather remains cooperative. As the 8th highest peak in the world, Manaslu provides plenty of opportunities for sharpening mountaineering skills for preparation for a higher peak, such as Everest, in the spring.


On Cho Oyu more teams have begun their push as well. The Amical Alpin squad has moved up to Camp 3 where they are joined by a group led by Adventure Peaks. If all goes according to plan, both teams should make their final summit bids tomorrow.

Similarly a second round of summit attempts are underway on Shishapangma as well. 74-year old Carlos Soria is in Camp 3 today and should make his push to the top tomorrow or the next day. Rich Emerson of the Ski Shishapangma expedition has launched his second summit bid on the mountain as well and hopes to top out tomorrow or Thursday. If conditions are right he'll also make a ski descent too.

Over on Lhotse things are starting to develop. The Korean team that joined Italians Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli on that mountain have begun building a makeshift route through the Khumbu Icefall, which should makes things easier and safer on that section of the climb. That team has also established Camp 1 and has spent some time their acclimatizing. For their part, the Italians have returned from Gorak Shep and are back up the mountain as well. They should be in Camp 2 today as they work towards getting their bodies ready for their own summit push to come. If they are successful, they also hope to ski back down the mountain.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie have checked in from Annapurna. In a very brief message Ueli says that he went as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) last Friday but weather conditions shifted and heavy snow began to fall. As of this dispatch he and Don were back in ABC and waiting for conditions to approve. Hopefully we'll get more news soon.

That's all for today. Hopefully we'll have more news on summits tomorrow.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summits On Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma!

It was a very productive day in the Himalaya yesterday as the projected weather window remained open long enough for teams to top out on several mountains. That window is expected to slam shut today with high winds and snowstorms expected across the region. But the climbers who arrived early in the season, worked hard to complete the acclimatization process and patiently waited for their opportunity were rewarded with successful summit bids. 

We'll start on Manaslu where the majority of the action took place yesterday. The Altitude Junkies confirmed that their team started to top out at about 8:30 AM local time yesterday morning. First to the top were Pasang Nima Sherpa and team leader Phil Crampton, but not far behind was the rest of the crew that included Alan Arnette, whom I'm sure will pass along a detailed account of the summit push in the next day or two As they approached the top, the final 100 meters of rope still needed to be fixed and Pasang Nima joined with the Sherpas from the Himex squad to complete that work. Russell Brice's team had a good day on the mountain too, putting 13 of their clients on top and a total of 29 climbers overall. Reportedly it was a good day on the summit with warm temperatures and calm winds. Both teams report that everyone has now descended safely and after spending the night in Camp 1 they should arrive back in BC today. 

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that there have been summits on Cho Oyu as well. Four climbers topped out there at around 12:40 PM yesterday afternoon. That group included American climber Adrian Ballinger, Russian Sergey Baranov, Passang Bhote Sherpa and Namygal Sherpa. The two westerners than proceeded to make a ski descent and were back in Camp 2 early in the afternoon. ExWeb also indicates that there are a number of other teams poised to make summit bids today before the change in weather arrives. 

Apparently there has also been a successful summit on Shishapangma as well. Details are still a bit light but it is being reported that Hungarian climber Lestak Erzsebet reached the summit of that mountain yesterday and then safely returned to ABC. If we get more details on the climb I'll be sure to share them.

While we're on the subject of Shishapangma, 74-year old Carlos Soria is still in Base Camp there and keeping a close eye on the weather. The hope is that once the current weather system passes a new window will open giving the teams enough time to make their push. That could come as early as next week, but for now everyone sits and waits. 

Finally, there hasn't been any updates from Ueli Steck or Don Bowie in about a week but presumably they have reached Annupurna Base Camp now and are setting up shop for the climb ahead. These two talented and very experienced mountaineers will likely go to work very quickly and I wouldn't be surprised to hear them start their acclimatization rotations immediately, weather permitting. Hopefully once they are settled in we'll start to get regular updates on their progress. 

I want to offer a big congratulations to all the climbers who were able to summit over the past couple of days. Job well done all around and I'm glad to hear that it seems everyone got up and down safely. 

More updates to come in the days ahead. Things will likely quiet down now for a few days while the weather moves in and out of the Himalaya. After that, there will be a host of climbers ready to make their move. 

Himalaya Fall 2013: No Summits on Shisha, Waiting For News Elsewhere

The waiting game continues in the Himalaya where we know that summit pushes are underway amidst good weather. But the forecast calls for a change starting tomorrow, with snow and high winds predicted. That means that teams are on the move today with news of successful summits to come shortly.

One team that we've been keeping a close eye on this week is the Ski Shishapangma squad. They made an attempt on the summit on Monday with the hopes of completing a ski descent of that mountain. Since then we hadn't heard any word on their progress, but a dispatch this morning tells us that Rich Emerson and Dave Etherington turned back 450 meters (1476 ft) below the summit. They are safely back in Base Camp now and Dave says that his climb is over. Rich, on the other hand, seems to be weighing his options and may consider giving it another go once he has had the chance to rest and recover his strength.

If the weather forecast holds as many as 60 climbers could top out on Manaslu today including groups from both the Altitude Junkies and Himex. Our friend Alan Arnette is a part of that group as well and I expected we'll get an excellent account of the climb once he he safely back in BC.

The other peak that should see plenty of action today is Cho Oyu where several teams should be closing in on the summit as well. The IMG squad isn't among them however as their latest dispatch indicates that they have now completed their second acclimatization rotation to Camp 2 and have descended to Base Camp as well. With the change in weather coming tomorrow they'll take the time to rest and eat lots of good food as they wait for a weather window to open to start their eventual summit bids. That looks like it won't happen until sometime next week at the earliest.


The Italian team on Lhotse has moved down the Khumbu Valley to Gorak Shep where they are taking a break as well. The sent a length dispatch today discussing the trash situation on Everest and Lhotse, where overcrowding have turned the mountain into a bit of a junk heap. Conditions in BC have improved considerably since the Nepalese government started imposing fines, but further up the mountain there is still plenty of trash to be cleaned up. The boys have a proposal on how to solve the issue, which would in a sense do away with commercial climbing on Everest altogether and put severe restrictions on who climbs the mountain. There ideas would never fly as they would be economically disastrous for Nepal, but it certainly makes for an interesting read and discussion.

That's all the news I have from the Himalaya today. Mostly we sit and wait for confirmation of successful summits today. With a shift in the weather coming, things will quiet down there heading into the weekend, but the season is far from over and there are still plenty of interesting developments to come I'm sure.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Weather Window Opens Across The Himalaya, Summits In Sight

As noted yesterday, the first real summit push of the fall Himalayan climbing season is now underway and we wait anxiously for word on the whereabouts of the numerous teams that are currently on the move. The weather forecast across the region seems favorable, at least for a few more days, and the climbers are now getting themselves into position to make a push to the top of their respective mountains within the next day or two. After that, it seems the window will close once again and those who aren't able to take advantage of it will wait for their turn in the days ahead. For now though, there is quite a bit of activity taking place.

Yesterday I noted that Rich Emerson and Dave Etherington of the Ski Shishapangma expedition were planning on making their summit bid. The weather was reportedly quite good and it was thought that they would go to the top, then attempt a ski descent. There has been no update on their progress since then however so it is unclear weather or not they did indeed summit and ski or if they ended up descending for some reason. We'll have to wait and watch their Facebook page for updates on their progress.

On Manaslu the summit push is in full swing with most expecting to top out tomorrow. As reported yesterday, the Altitude Junkies squad is amongst them with Alan Arnette part of that team. It seems that the Himex climbers have also joined the summit party and their team is on the way up as well. The forecast says that there should be little wind on Manaslu tomorrow, which should give the teams perfect conditions to top out. After that, rain and snow are expected on the mountain with the potential for some heavy powder to fall at higher altitudes. At the moment, as many as 60 climbers are in Camp 4 and waiting to launch their final push.


According to ExWeb, the summit bids have begun on Cho Oyu as well with the first climbers possibly topping out as early as tomorrow as well. The forecast there is the same as elsewhere: good conditions through Wednesday with heavy snow moving in afterwards. Considering that no one has been above Camp 2 yet on the mountain, it is unclear what conditions will be like on the way to the summit, but after tomorrow they are expected to get a whole lot more challenging. Amongst those hoping to top out are American mountain guide Adrian Ballinger and Russian climber Sergei Baranov.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli are back in Base Camp on Lhotse where they have enjoyed a warm shower and some much needed rest. They intend to descend to Gorak Shep for a bit of a break and to get an Internet connection to post some more detailed updates. The boys are no longer alone in BC however as a Korean team has arrived in the past day or two and has begun to set up shop. It is unclear at this point whether or not the Koreans will be attempting Lhotse as well or if they are there to make a rare attempt on Everest in the fall. We'll just have to wait to see what exactly their objectives are.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie should now be settled into Base Camp on Annapurna and will most likely be scouting the route that they'll take to the summit. There have been no updates yet from the dynamic duo but it is their hope that they'll be able to find success on one of the world's toughest mountains where both have had their struggles in the past. Even if they don't manage to climb Annapurna this fall however, it is good to see Ueli back in the Himalaya following the unfortunate events of this past spring.

That's all for now. Hopefully my next update will contain good news of successful summits.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summit Bids Underway!

It was a busy weekend in the Himalaya where most of the teams continued their acclimatization rotations in an effort to prepare for the challenges ahead. While those squads dutifully marched up and down the mountain in an effort to get their bodies accustomed to the thinner air, other teams launched their summit bids at long last. If the weather stays calm and things go according to plan, we could see our first successful summits of the season later today.

One of the teams that is now in position to top out is the Ski Shishapangma squad. They started their summit push last Friday and should top out today, hopefully putting both Dave Etherington and Rich Emerson on the summit. The weather report indicates clear skies and tranquil conditions on the mountain, so provided any unforeseen changes, it seems summit day will be a good one. As the name of the expedition implies however, climbing the mountain is only part of the plan. Dave and Rich also intend to ski back down Shisha, which is the shortest of the 8000-meter peaks at 8013 meters (26,289 ft). Good luck to the team as they make this final push and ski descent.

Also on Shishapangma, 74-year old Carlos Soria is biding his time and waiting for his opportunity to summit. With his acclimatization rotations done, he is now resting in Base Camp, watching the weather and waiting for the right time to move. He is estimating that he'll get on the move around the middle of the week with a possible summit on Sept. 28, which would be Saturday. A savvy veteran of the Himalaya, Soria also says that his team is patient and they will wait for the right opportunity to being their bid for the summit.

The Altitude Junkies have also launched their summit bid on Manaslu setting out on Saturday for their final push. The team, which includes our friend Alan Arnette, spent the night in Camp 2 last night and will proceed to Camp 3 today. Tomorrow they'll move up to C4 and be in position for a potential summit bid on Wednesday of this week. The weather window looks promising at the moment and it seems that the route to the top is in good shape. Over the weekend the Sherpas had to replace three ladders that went missing in avalanche, but all is good now. Hopefully we'll hear news of their success in the middle of the week.


On Cho Oyu the IMG team has moved up to Camp 2 where they spent the night last night as part of their normal acclimatization process. The climbers have now been in Tibet for three weeks and their bodies should begin responding positively to the higher altitudes. The weather is reported good on the mountain and everyone is expected to descend back to Base Camp today for a couple days rest before proceeding back up.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli had a tough climb up to Camp 1 on Lhotse over the weekend. As much as 40 cm (15.8 inches) of fresh snow had fallen and it made what should typically be a relatively easy climb into a very tough slog. As they moved higher, the snow started falling again and soon the found themselves in a blizzard that ended up dropping as much as 70-80 cm (27-31 inches) of new powder. With conditions deteriorating rapidly, they were forced to continue up to C1 rather than turn back. They spent an cold, wet and generally uncomfortable night at that spot, waking up the next day to find that the skies had cleared and conditions had improved dramatically. This gave them the opportunity to return to BC for some much needed rest. While on the hike up to Camp 1, Edmond displayed some signs of altitude sickness which could be troubling. Hopefully the rest in Base Camp will help alleviate the issue and he can continue with the expedition as planned.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie were expected to reach Annapurna Base Camp yesterday, which means they have probably already gone to work today. The duo planned on scouting various routes to the top once they arrived in BC. It is there belief that Annapurna, which is amongst the most dangerous mountains in the world, will be more stable in the fall with colder conditions and less snow. Both men have tried this mountain in the past and the summit has eluded them thus far. Hopefully this season will be a little different.

Stay tuned for more updates as they come in.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Big Changes On Manaslu, Avalanche On Cho Oyu

The climbers in the Himalaya this fall have really started to pick up momentum and this week has certainly been a busy one. Most have started their first acclimatization rounds and things seem to be proceeding according to plan. But this being the Himalaya, things are not always as they seem and there have certainly been some difficult struggles even in the early going.

We'll start on Manaslu where Alan Arnette has weighed in following his first acclimatization rotation up to Camp 2. Alan says that the mountain is very different this year and that the lack of snowfall is having a dramatic effect on the route. He reports that there are numerous crevasses to negotiate and that the movement of the shifting glacier has forced the Sherpas to find new ways to navigate up the mountain. Apparently even the Sherpas who have been climbing on Manaslu for many years are surprised at how it looks this season. The ascent from Base Camp to C1 and 2 has always been on the technical side, but this year it is even more challenging. As always, Alan's dispatches from his expeditions are insightful, well written and share a wealth of information. You can read his latest in its entirety by clicking here.

Not far from where Alan is camped in Manaslu BC, the Himex team has also set up shop for the season. Their Sherpa teams have just returned from carrying gear up to Camps 1 and 2 and will now take a day or two off before they proceed higher. The climbing team will sit for another day as well and then head up for their first acclimatization rotation this weekend. Most will spend the night at C2 as they begin to get their bodies accustomed to the altitude. The team reports that the weather is starting to take a turn however with more freezing rain in the forecast. They'll keep an eye on the sky of course, but for now it just seems to be conditions uncomfortable rather than putting anyone in real danger.
Over on Cho Oyu the climbers are going through their early rotations as well with a number of teams just returning to BC after their first trip up the mountain. The IMG squad is reportedly gearing up for their climb to Camp 2, which may take place as early as this weekend. There was a scary moment on the mountain a couple of days ago when an avalanche hit four Sherpas that were busy fixing ropes up to C2. One of those climbers was seriously injured and had to be evacuated but thankfully no one was killed during the incident. A day later the rope fixing to C2 was complete and the teams now seem confident enough in the conditions to proceed up.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli are making some slow progress on Lhotse. The duo are back in Base Camp today and were planning on descending down the Khumbu Valley for a little rest in Gorak Shep. They have just made their first foray up to Camp 1, which involved a tricky climb through the Khumub Icefall, which is made all the more difficult this time of year since the famed Ice Doctors aren't there to maintain the route. Apparently the two support Sherpas who are accompanying them on this trip are not very experienced at passing through the Icefall without the aid of ladders and ropes. The two Sherpas, both of whom have Everest summits on their resumes, expressed concerns about the dangers of that section of the mountain. As a result, the Italians have requested two other porters with more experience to come join them. While they are climbing in mostly independently, they are using Sherpa support to shuttle gear up to Camp 1 and 2. It'll take a few days before their new support team will arrive in BC, so for now they'll rest and prepare for the challenges ahead. The plan is to summit and ski the mountain, which makes this one of the most ambitious expeditions taking place this fall.

The team of Rich Emerson, Dave Etherington and Steve Wilson are also hoping to make a ski descent of Shishapangma this fall. They've already completed their final acclimatization rotation and launched their summit bid yesterday with Rich and Dave expected to reach Camp 1 today and then proceed to C2 tomorrow. If all goes as expected, they could be on top early next week and skiing back down shortly there after. It has begun to snow on the mountain, which may be good for the descent, but we'll have to wait to see if the weather impacts their final push to the summit.

Meanwhile, 74-year old Carlos Soria has arrived in Base Camp on Shishapangma and will spend the next few days resting before he starts his acclimatization. Carlos is an amazing man as he continues to take on big Himalayan peaks well into his 70's and never seems to take much of a break. He is a staple in the mountains and seems to be constantly on an expedition of some kind or another. I hope that when I reach his age I'm still as active and strong.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie are already in and out of Kathmandu. The duo flew to Pokhara yesterday and began the trek to Annapurna Base Camp today. They should arrive on the mountain early next week and start their climb then.

More updates soon.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Acclimatizing For The Challenges Ahead

The Fall 2013 climbing season in the Himalaya is definitely in full swing now with most of the teams now fully ensconced in their Base Camps. With good weather in place across the region, the climbers have begun taking advantage of the opportunity and have started their first real acclimatization rounds. If the forecast remains good we could see some early summits this year. But for now, most are content to work hard and take things one day at a time.

One of the more ambitious projects this fall will take place on Lhotse, where Italian climbers Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli hope to summit and make a ski descent of the mountain. The two men have been acclimatizing in the Khumbu Valley over the past week or so and are now settled in at Everest Base Camp, which is of course the shared launching pad for Lhotse as well. Yesterday they went up Kala Pattar, a nearby peak that provides excellent views of Everest and they report that their conditioning is good and everything is proceeding as they had hoped. They also completed their Puja ceremony, which will now allow them proceed up the mountain. They hope to make their way through the Khumbu Icefall today and climb to Camp 1 as part of their first acclimatization rotation.

Over on Manaslu things are proceeding well. The Altitude Junkies have finished their first big rotation and are now back in BC after spending a night at Camp 1 and two more at Camp 2. They'll take a few days off to recover now before heading higher and the Sherpas hope to establish Camp 4 within the next few days. The team is in good spirits after their first real workout and the good weather is helping to make things a bit easier at the moment.

Also on Manaslu is the Himex team, whose Sherpas have been doing the bulk of the work fixing the ropes, with a little help from the Altitude Junkies as well. The group made it's first rotation a few days back going up to Camp 1 for the first time. It was a four hour journey from BC up to that point but everyone climbed strong and had very few issues. They're now back in BC as well and preparing for their first push to Camp 2 where they'll spend a few nights at altitude to get their bodies accustomed to the thinner air.

Polish climber and skier Andrzej Bargiel has his sites set on Shishapangma this fall. He hopes to make a speed attempt on that mountain and then ski back down. It isn't clear if he is in Tibet just yet, but his plans were to begin climbing in late September and hopefully complete the expedition in October. Hopefully we'll get more updates as he proceeds.

Also making his way to Shishapangma is 73-year old Spanish climber Carlos Soria. He isn't quite into Base Camp just yet, but should be there within the next few days. The video at the bottom of this report gives an update from the trek and while it is in Spanish, you'll still get a good idea of the logistics involved in getting to the mountain. There is also a wild scene with a yak who simply does not want to carry a heavy load further up the valley. Scary stuff!

Things are starting to heat up on Cho Oyu as the teams begin their first rotations there as well. The IMG squad reportedly went to Camp 1 and spent the night while the Sherpas having been busy fixing lines and shuttling gear. They should have Camp 2 well established today and will continue up the mountain after a brief respite back in Base Camp.

That's all for now. Expect more updates soon as the teams in the Himalaya really start to progress.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Alan Arnette Checks In From Manaslu

The fall climbing season is underway in the Himalaya but so far there hasn't been a lot of news to report. Most of the teams are in and out of Kathmandu and are either en route to the respective base camps or are already getting settled. Our friend Alan Arnette is always timely with his blog posts however and he checked in earlier today from BC on Manaslu (8156 m/26,759 ft) where it sounds like things are off to a good start.

Alan and his team arrived on the mountain last Saturday and spent the first few days establishing their campsite, sorting gear and getting acclimated. The trek into the site took ten days to complete so everyone was anxious to get settled and prep for the work ahead. The climbers get their own tents of course but the dining tent serves as a common area while a communications tent helps to keep everyone in touch with friends and family back home via slow and costly satellite Internet connections.

After a busy few days in Base Camp, the team held their Puja ceremony on Tuesday of this week. Before anyone begins to head up the mountain they must first go through the Puja, which asks the mountain spirits to protect the climbers as they being their ascent. It is an important ritual when climbing in the Himalaya and the Sherpas wouldn't dare go higher than Base Camp without first taking part in such a ceremony.

With the Puja out of the way, yesterday Alan and his companions set off for Camp 1. It was a quick up and back to that point on the mountain, taking just five hours to make the round trip. This is the first stage of the all important acclimatization process which will likely next result in the team spending a night at C1 or proceeding up to Camp 2, which has already been established.


It hasn't been all hard work so far however. Alan reports that after getting back to BC the Sherpas from his team (He's climbing with the Altitude Junkies) took on the Sherpas from the Himex squad in a game of volleyball. Himex has a court set up in their camp and it was good fun for all to cheer on their companions. Personally I can't imagine playing volleyball at that altitude but the Sherpas are far stronger than I am at those heights.

For now, the climbers will rest again in BC before heading back up next week. It looks like they'l go all the way to Camp 2 on that rotation so expect to hear more soon. From the sounds of things, conditions on the mountain are good so far and the weather has been cooperative if a bit dreary. Hopefully that bodes well for the days to come.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Teams Gathering In Kathmandu

It is hard to believe that the summer has nearly passed and it is time for the fall Himalayan season to begin. As I write this, teams are now gathering in Kathmandu for the start of the season, which is much less active than the spring but still draws hundreds of climbers to Nepal and Tibet. Many come to sharpen their skills ahead of an attempt on Everest next year but plenty visit the Himalaya during the fall to take advantage of a more relaxed, quieter atmosphere.

At the moment, the Himalaya are still shrouded in the storms that come along with the monsoon season.  Those rains will pass away soon however, opening up safe access to the big mountains in the days ahead. Some of the more popular summits for the fall include Makalu, Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. Everest sees few visitors this time of year, although there are occasionally a few teams who attempt a fall summit on the world's highest peak.

Our friend Alan Arnette will be atempting Manaslu this fall and today he'll begin the six-day trek beginning in Sama Goan. But before he left Kathmandu, Alan and his team met with none other than Ms. Elizabeth Hawley, the Grand Dame of the Himalaya herself. He wrote a great blog post about that encounter a few days ago, which you can (and should!) read here. He has entitled the post "A Morning with a Legend," which seems apt considering Ms. Hawley's stature in the mountaineering community.

For those who don't know who Ms. Hawley is, she is pretty much the authority on Himalayan climbing. For decades she has kept a definitive record on who climbed which mountains and generally a summit isn't official until she says so. She has a reputation for a keen mind, a sharp tongue and a long memory. Even now, in her 89th year, she can still make hardened men tremble under her scrutiny. She is a fascinating woman and it seems like Alan's encounter with her was a memorable one.

A number of the teams are now en route to their respective mountains and we will soon start to get reports on their progress. Typical of Himalayan expeditions they'll first begin with the acclimatization process over the coming weeks before waiting for weather a window to open for a potential summit bid. While it won't be nearly as active as it is in the spring, it should still be an interesting time in the big mountains.

Stay tuned for regular updates as expeditions get underway.

Alan Arnette Announces Manaslu Expedition

While the climbing season in Pakistan is winding down it won't be too long before the fall season in the Himalaya begins to pick up. Soon the seasonal monsoon will begin to dissipate and mountains that have been off limits for the past few months will suddenly become quite popular once again. This fall we'll get the opportunity to follow one expedition in particular very closely as our friend Alan Arnette has announced that he will climb Manaslu this fall. 

Standing 8163 meters (26,781 ft) in height, Manaslu is the fifth tallest mountain in the world. It is located inside Nepal,  approximately 65 km (40 miles) east of Annapurna and is one of the lesser climbed 8000 meter peaks. First climbed by a Japanese team back in 1956, Manaslu's most popular route to the summit follows its Northeast Ridge and requires the establishment of four camps on the way to the top. Alan notes that the biggest obstacles to success include heavy snow and avalanches that occur on the upper slopes.

This will be Alan's eighth expedition to an 8000 meter peak. He has attempted Everest four times, successfully topping out once, and also has experience on Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. As usual, he'll be climbing with the Altitude Junkies and if all goes according to plan, they'll be eyeing a summit bid sometime in early-October. The expedition will also be used to raise funds for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund, which holds a particular significance to Alan who lost his mother to that horrible disease and prompted him to launch his Memories Are Everything campaign.

If you are familiar with Alan's blog you know that he covers the mountaineering scene very well and writes from a place of experience. His posts are always interesting and extremely well done and that includes when he sends dispatches back from his own climbs. That means that later this year we should get a very good narrative about what it is like to climb on Manaslu. I have no doubt that he'll keep us well informed about every step of the journey and make us feel like we're on the mountain with him. I know that I am already looking forward to following the climb in the weeks ahead.

Good luck Alan! Climb safely!

Video: The Manaslu Trail Run - Running In The High Himalaya

Standing 8156 meters (26,759 ft) in height, Manaslu is the eight tallest mountain in the world. It also happens to be the focus of an amazing competition known as the Manaslu Trail Race, which is run in the High Himalaya of Nepal each year. During the race, competitors will cover a total of 212 km (131 miles) over seven stages, going as high as Manaslu Base Camp located at 5100 meters (16,732 ft). It is a difficult and demanding event that rewards runners with stunning views and an almost spiritual connection with the world around them.

The video below is an amazing introduction to this trail race. It is a 10-minute long mini-documentary that will leave you inspired to want to run this route yourself while pulling no punches with how difficult the run actually is. The short film begins in Kathmandu and takes viewers through the various stages of the race, giving us a sense of what it is like out on the trail. This seems like an incredible mix of cultural immersion, breathtaking scenery and an unbelievable physical challenge.

The next edition of the Manaslu Trail Race will take begin on November 9 of this year. There is still time to enter and get training.

MANASLU TRAIL RACE PROMO (LOW RES) from Adventure Types on Vimeo.

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: Over On Makalu,

It looks like predictions of the end of the fall season in the Himalaya are proving to be true. This past weekend there were summit bids scheduled on several mountains across the area despite the fact that the jet stream had begun to settle in at the higher altitudes. But those summit attempts were stalled out, at least on Makalu, due to high winds.

One of the climbers who saw her climb brought to an abrupt end was Billi Bierling. She had been on Makalu for the past six week and expected to top out last week until her Sherpa team put Camp 4 in the wrong place. Billi and the rest of her squad had hoped to rest up and give it one more go this past weekend, setting out for the summit on Friday with the hopes of topping out today. Unfortunately they only made it as high as Camp 2 before returning to Base Camp due to the high winds on the upper slopes. The weather forecasts didn't look promising for the days ahead, so the expedition was cancelled and the climbers started for home. After 10+ hour trek to Yangle Kharka yesterday and a brief helicopter ride to this morning, Billi is already back in Kathmandu and promising more information on her experience soon.

Commercial guide service Alpenglow Expeditions posted a dispatch explaining the situation on Makalu as well. They note that they decided to pull the plug on their climb due to the dire forecasts which show no break in the winds for the next two weeks and beyond that it is impossible to tell. Sitting and waiting for two weeks without knowing what lies beyond simply wasn't an option, so they pulled up camp, collected their gear and hit the trail for home. The dispatch hints at more than a little frustration with the situation but such is the experience when climbing in the Himalaya, where the weather is always unpredictable and even more so at this time of the year.

There is also late season news from Manaslu, where EpicTV reports that amidst the tragedy of the avalanche, and the triumph of the summits that followed, one success story was over looked. Last week, German skier Benedikt Bohm became the first person to successfully climb and make a ski descent of the mountain without the use of supplemental oxygen. More impressively, he also made the climber from Base Camp to the summit and back in under 24 hours. Bohm is part of the Dynafit ski team, which also played an instrumental role in helping aid the survivors of the avalanche. Strong members of that team were amongst the first on site in Camp 3 when word of the accident reached the other teams. This is a tremendous achievement on the part of Benedikt and congratulations are certainly in order.

The other two mountains that were expecting summit attempts this past weekend were Everest and Lhotse. I haven't seen any updates on the progress of the teams on those two mountains yet, but it is likely that the jet stream may have prevented them from going up as well. We'll just have to wait for dispatches from Nepal to get word on their success.

Video: Rescue Efforts On Manaslu

The tragic avalanche accident that occurred on Manaslu last week has cast a large shadow over this fall's Himalayan climbing season. As operations on that mountain wrap up for the year, I'm sure we'll be hearing more about that awful experience. But today we have a video that was put together by Himalayan Ascent that shows some of the rescue efforts that were made in the wake of the accident. The footage gives us all an idea of what it was like on the mountain as search and rescue teams combed  Manaslu looking for survivors and assisting the injured.

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: Summit Bid Aborted On Dhaulagiri

Late yesterday I mentioned that several teams had launched their summit bids on Dhaulagiri and that if everything went according to plan, they would summit in the next day or two. One of those teams was the SummitClimb squad, who had moved up to Camp 3 yesterday and intended to proceed on to C4 today. But it turns out conditions were not good and according to their latest update, which came via a Tweet, the team has elected to return to Camp 1. 

SummitClimb leader Dan Mazur sent out the following dispatch earlier today which gives us an idea of what is going on. The tweet simply read: "TEAM TURNS ROUND @0330HRS. UNSTABLE SNOW. EVERYONE OK. NOW HEADED DOWN TO CAMP 1."

Obviously the climbers came across dangerous snows on their way up to Camp 4 this morning and decided that the best course of action was to play it safe and head back down the mountain. Considering the recent tragedy on Manaslu, that was a good idea, but now we'll have to wait to see if they can get another crack at the summit. Weather forecasts indicate that the jet stream could be ready to make its semi-annual shift, which could put an end to all climbs sometime in the next few days.

There hasn't been any news on whether 73-year old Carlos Soria and his team continued with their summit attempt, but Carlos knows these mountains well and respects how prone to avalanches they can be. My guess is that he wouldn't head up to the top if he felt the risks were too high. (Update: ExWeb now reports that Soria descended as well due to high winds. He will wait to see if there is a nother chance at the summit.)

Meanwhile, over on Manaslu, the teams have now all returned safely to Base Camp and are waiting to depart back to Kathmandu. The climbers with the Altitude Junkies, including Edita Nichols, are all in the village of Sama Goan today, but bad weather has grounded the helicopters so there will be no ride out until tomorrow at the earliest.

The Mountain Professionals are also in BC, but they report in their latest dispatch that the descent back down the mountain was a hairy one. While they were up at the high camps, a number of large crevasses opened up between C1 and BC. That made for a challenging descent although they all returned safely as well. They plan to descend to Sama Goan tomorrow and fly back to Kathmandu on Friday.

Finally, while Billi Bierling awaits an second opportunity to summit Makalu, Outside magazine has posted a profile of the journalist/mountaineer. Much of what they write was taken from a post that Billi made to her blog a few days back, but it is an interest read about this well-connected climber who has topped out on some impressive Himalayan peaks in the past few years.

Most expeditions will be winding down in the next week or so, but there are still some opportunities for summits on various peaks in the region. If the weather holds out, expect another push in the next few days. 

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: Summits On Manaslu!

As expected, a calm weather window gave climbers on Manaslu, the eight tallest mountain in the world at 8156 meters (26,759 ft), an opportunity to launch summit bids over the weekend. These attempts came just one week after the tragic avalanche accident that claimed more than a dozen lives, but the climbers who remained on the mountain in the wake of that tragedy had their patience and perseverance rewarded at last.

Amongst the teams that saw success on summit day was the Mountain Professionals squad. They report that their entire team successfully topped out earlier today and made it back to Camp 4 to enjoy some rest and hot tea before proceeding down to C2 for a proper sleep. If all goes according to plan, they should complete the descent tomorrow and return to Base Camp at that time.

Similarly, the Altitude Junkies checked in following their successful bid as well, reporting that 15 members of their team reached the summit. Two Sherpas and one member of the group did turn back on the way up, but everyone else, including Edita Nichols, managed to stand on top. They're all feeling strong and in good spirits, and have started their descent back to Camp 2 as well.

The Himalayan Experience team was also scheduled to make their summit bid starting yesterday, but as of now there has been no update on whether or not they were successful. Considering how well oiled the Himex machine is, I'd guess that they were able to put at least some of the climbers on the summit but they just haven't had the opportunity to report in just yet.

Congratulations to all the teams. Everyone enjoy the feeling of success and get back to BC safely.