Winter Climbs 2014: News From Nanga Pabat

The winter climbing season is now in full swing with most of the attention this year being focused on Nanga Parbat. As previously noted, there will be three teams attempting to make the first winter ascent of that 8126 meters (26,660 ft) peak, with all of them now on the mountain and taking a long look at the challenges that await them.

The Polish Justice For All Team, which has been in Pakistan the longest, is reporting that they have gone as high as 5500 meters (18,044 ft), where they have stored gear in anticipation of eventually shuttling it up to Camp 1. But poor weather, including high winds and heavy snows, have kept them in Base Camp for now. The forecast indicates that things should be improving over the next few days, which will allow them to push ahead with their acclimatization and scout their intended route up the mountain.

The North Face Team consisting of Simone Moro, David Gottler and Emilio Previtali are also in BC where they are awaiting improved weather as well. They arrived after Christmas but have quickly set up camp but have been stymied by hurricane force winds thus far. With the weather set to take a turn for the better, they'll hopefully be able to start their acclimatization as well.


Ralf Dujmovits hopes to make one of the most epic climbs in mountaineering history by going solo on Nanga above 5500 meters. After acclimatizing on Aconcagua in mid-December, he barely stopped home in Germany before heading to Pakistan. He is now on the mountain and reports that conditions are not great all around. His intended route passes below two precarious ice columns, which appear as if they could collapse at any time. Worse yet, conditions there are making for slow going, and his route would leave him in the shadow of those columns for a good day and a half of climbing, a risk he's not sure he wants to take at this point. The heavy snows have covered the intended route as well, which is making it difficult to spot. All of these challenges are in play, before he has even begun the ascent of Nanga, which is considered one of the most dangerous and difficult mountains in the world.

ExWeb is also reporting that Daniele Nardi will be heading to Nanga at the end of January and will be attempting a winter ascent as well. That is a bit of a late start to a winter climb, but should still provide plenty of time if conditions are right.

Finally, on a different note, Lonnie Dupre had been planning on having another go at a solo-summit of Denali in Winter, but has delayed that attempt until December of 2014. After three consecutive years on the mountain, he'll now take this January off and look ahead to next. As someone who has followed each of those previous expeditions, I'll miss following Lonnie's adventure this year.

More updates soon, as there will likely be more winter expeditions added shortly.

Video: Conrad Anker in Denali: National Parks Epic Challenge

Last week I shared an excellent video that featured Alex Honnold climbing in Yosemite that came our way courtesy of the National Park Foundation. It turns out it was just the first of a series of videos that will feature some well known outdoor personalities doing the things that they – and we – love. You'll find the latest of those videos below. This time we get to travel to Denali National Park in Alaska to go climbing with mountaineering legend Conrad Anker. If you need any other reason beyond that to press the play button, I can't help you. Enjoy!


Conrad Anker in Denali: National Parks Epic Challenge from National Park Foundation on Vimeo.

Denali Is 83 Feet Shorter Than Previously Thought

The tallest mountain in North America isn't quite as tall as previously thought. The U.S. Geological Survey recently resurveyed Denali – aka Mt. McKinley – and discovered that it is actually 83 feet shorter than when it was last officially measured in 1952. That means that it now stands at 20,237 ft (6168 meters) in height, down from 20,320 ft (6193 meters).

The surveyors used high tech Interferometric Synthetic Aperture Radar to make precise measurements of Denali and numerous other Alaskan peaks. The survey was done last year but is only just now being released on new topographic maps.

It isn't exactly clear why there is such a discrepancy between previous surveys and this most recent one. The team who completed the 2012 measurements speculate that it may be due to improved technology or a result of climate change taking some of the snow and ice from the summit. It is most likely a combination of both of those reasons however and while it is not uncommon for the official height of a mountain to change, it is rare for it to be off by such a substantial amount

For the mountaineering community the new height doesn't really make that much difference. While it does shave 83 feet (25.3 meters) from the actual height of the climb, Denali remains one of the toughest mountains around. Its notoriously fickle weather adds a level of challenge that isn't found on many other peaks of comparable height while its latitude, combined with total altitude gain, make it feel like a peak that rises much higher than its official height would seem to indicate. It is because of those factors that Denali is often used as a training ground for Everest.

The change in height has no effect on Denali's status as the tallest mountain in North America.

Expedition Denali Update: Bad Weather Keeps Team From The Summit

There have been few updates from the Expedition Denali team this past week, although we did know that they were hoping to summit sometime in the past few days. On Monday they were at Advanced Base Camp, located at 14,200 ft (4328 meters) and were headed up to High Camp at 17,200 ft (5242 meters). After that, the team went radio silent while we waited for word on their progress.

Late yesterday we received an update at last and after 19 days on the mountain, the group is coming home without a summit. On Wednesday they made a bid for the top amidst good weather but as they approached 19,600 ft (5852 meters) storm clouds rapidly moved in and closed off any hope of topping out. Their latest dispatch indicates that there were 60+ climbers going for the summit at the same time and all of them turned back as thunder and lightning rolled into the summit.

With this summit bid over the team is now descending and preparing to head home. They fell 720 feet (219 meters) short of the summit, which has to be crushing, but after three weeks on the mountain it is time to come home. As I've mentioned before with this team, summiting Denali was a big goal, but they have aspirations well beyond that. They hope to inspire young people – especially minorities – to get active and become more connected with the outdoors. That work will continue long after they've left the mountain.

Congratulations to the team on a valiant effort. This story only underscores how challenging a Denali climb can be. The weather is incredibly unpredictable there and even though they were setting out under the best conditions possible, the window was slammed shut by sudden and unexpected storms. I'm sure there is a sense of disappointment amongst the climbers, but they did a fine job and their work with minority kids is only just beginning.

Everyone get down safe and come home soon.

Expedition Denali Update: Team On Summit Push?

It has been a couple of days since we last heard from the Expedition Denali team, who should be getting close to making their final summit push. The climbers have now been on the mountain for 17 days and as of Saturday, everything was ready for them start moving up one last time. In their last dispatch they were waiting at 14,200 ft (4328 meters) and if the weather was good they were planning to climb up to 17,200 ft (5242 meters) on Sunday. That would have put them into position to summit yesterday and yet no word has come. We can only assume that they are currently in a holding pattern as they watch for a weather window to open.

You'll no doubt recall that the Expedition Denali team is the group of African American climbers who have set the goal of summiting Denali in an effort to inspire young people – and especially minority kids – to become more engaged with the outdoors. The climbers hope that their adventure will encourage others to seek their own. With that in mind, their expedition is being filmed and will eventually be turned into a documentary to help spread the word of their accomplishments and show youth of color that they too can chase their dreams.

Their efforts have already started to pay off around the country. Youth groups who have been following the climb have begun launching their own "10,000 Steps to Denali" activities to show support for the team. That is the number of steps they estimate it will take to climb from High Camp to the Summit, and while the kids they are inspiring won't be carrying heavy packs through snow and ice and in thin air, they are still seeking their own adventures none the less.

For now, we'll all have to wait to see if and when the team can top out. They've put in all the work and they are ready to go, but until the mountain cooperates, they'll just have to sit tight. Lets hope they get their opportunity soon.

Watch for updates at the Expedition Denali website and on Facebook and Twitter.

Max Lowe Sets Sights On Denali Summit

While we're on the subject of Denali, I wanted to point out this excellent article that was posted to the National Geographic Adventure Blog a few days back. It was written by Max Lowe, the sun of legendary climber Alex Lowe and stepson of Conrad Anker. Max and some friends are currently in Alaska and are attempting to climb Denali this spring, but the article reads like a young man who is charting his own course and not necessarily following in the footsteps of his two famous fathers.

For those who don't know, Max's father Alex is considered one of the greatest alpinists of all time. He put up first ascents all over the world and was known not only for his great skill and precision in the mountains but also as a great person as well. Hi nickname was the "the Lung with Legs,"which is an indication of how strong he could climb even at high altitude. Sadly, Alex was killed on Shishapangma in 1999 when he and teammates – Anker and David Bridges – were struck by a massive avalanche.

Alex and Conrad had been great friends and climbing partners for some time, and when Anker returned home he found himself grieving for the loss with Alex's wife Jennifer. Over time, they two fell in love and got married. Conrad then became the step father for Alex's sons Max, Sam and Isaac. This has obviously given Max two very strong role models to follow on his own alpine adventures.

But as I mentioned, Max seems to be plotting his own course on Denali and beyond. He is an accomplished photographer and writer, and seems inspired to chronicle his own adventures. The piece that he has written for Nat Geo is thoughtful and honest, with some great insights into his team's effort to climb the tallest mountain in North America, then make a ski descent. The article also lists some of his favorite gear that he'll be taking along on the trip.

The story was posted on June 15 and Max and his team were set to depart for Denali on June 8. That means that if everything is going well, they should soon be approaching their summit bid as well. After reading this story, I'd certainly welcome a follow-up with his thoughts on the climb.

Expedition Denali Update: Eyeing The Summit

The climbing season on Denali is in full swing with numerous teams already moving up and down the mountain this summer. In fact, there have been a steady stream of summits dating back to late-May, with good weather contributing to early success. The season will continue for a few more weeks before wrapping up in early July, which should allow for quite a few more climbers to top out before the summit is closed for another year.

One of the more high profile teams on the mountain this year is of course the Expedition Denali crew. This is the team that is made up of all African American climbers who are not only looking to reach the summit, but they're also hoping to use their adventure as a catalyst for inspiring minority youth to engage more fully with the outdoors and spark some adventures of their own. With that in mind, the team is making a documentary of their climb, which should help in that endeavor. 

Right now, the climbers have been on 20,320-foot (6194 meter) mountain for approximately 12 days. According to their most recent dispatch, they seem to be making great progress as well. Two days ago they were in Advanced Base Camp at 14,200 feet (4328 meters) but were planning on heading up to 16,000 feet (4876 meters) yesterday to fix ropes and drop a gear cache. With that out of the way, they feel like their acclimatization should be just about over. They intend to take a day or two of rest, before heading up to High Camp (17,200 ft/5242 meters) tomorrow or Saturday, at which time they'll be waiting on a weather window to make their summit bids. 

So far, things have been going quite well for the team, who have been receiving lots of media attention for their climb. It seems their efforts to inspire minority youth are already paying off as well, as their "10,000 Steps to Denali" program are already encouraging kids all across the U.S. to be more active outside. 

The weather on Denali has been more cooperative so far this season as compared to last year. Hopefully that trend will continue and the Expedition Denali team can get up and down the mountain safely very soon. 

Video: Why Climb? - In Celebration Of 100 Years On Denali

Today marks the 100th anniversary of the first summit of Denali, the tallest peak in North America at 6194 meters (20,320 ft). A century after that first ascent the mountain remains a challenging and difficult climb, but one that is sought after by mountaineers from across the globe. The video below, which comes are way from the National Park Service, not only celebrates this occasion but also serves as a great reminder of why we climb. As if we need to be reminded! Excellent video for an important anniversary. Enjoy!

Expedition Denali Heads To Alaska

One of the more prominent teams that has received media attention so far this year has been Expedition Denali, which I've written about on several occasions already. This is the squad of climbers that consists entirely of African-Americans who have set a goal to climb the tallest peak in North America in an effort to inspire young people of all ethnicities to connect with the outdoors and seek their own adventures. After months of planning and weeks of preparation, the climbers are about to kick off their climb at last as they make their way to Alaska before setting out for the mountain.

As the expedition name implies, the team has set its sights on the 6194 meter (20,320 ft) Denali (aka Mt. McKinley) in Alaska. The 2013 climbing season is already in full swing there with a number of climbers already topping out. After a nasty season last year, during which the weather prevented most teams from summiting, things have been much better so far this spring. Whether or not that continues to be true remains to be seen.

The Expedition Denali crew is now starting to gather in Palmer, Alaska, which will serve as their proving ground before heading to the mountain itself. It will be a few days before they actually reach Base Camp, but you can follow their progress on their blog, Facebook page and Twitter feed.

Prior to setting out the team was happy to announce that their Kickstarter campaign was fully-funded. They were looking to raise $107,000 to create a documentary film about their adventure and when the clock wound down on their fund-raising efforts, they actually exceeded their goal by bringing in $111,125. That means that we should see an excellent film about this project in the future.

Expect to hear a lot more about this team in the days ahead. As I mentioned, their efforts to increase diversity in the outdoors is making this a high profile climb for sure. That means we shouldn't have too much difficult following along with their progress on the mountain and getting updates throughout the Denali season.

Good luck to the entire team!

With The Spring Himalaya Season Over, All Eyes Turn To Denali

Now that the spring climbing season in the Himalaya is officially over, the attention of the mountaineering world turns to Alaska and the challenging slopes of Denali. Standing 6194 meters (20,320 ft) in height, Denali is the tallest mountain in North America and a formidable climb in its own right. In fact, the mountain has a relatively narrow climbing window that begins in May and runs into early July, during which time the bulk of the mountaineers who wish to summit will attempt it.

One of the hallmarks of Denali is its ferocious weather which can be felt at nearly any time of the year, but is a bit more predictable during the warmer summer months. While it doesn't match the stature of the big Himalayan peaks, or even some of the mountains in the Andes, it's particularly high latitude presents its own issues. For one, high winds and cold weather temperatures are common and the barometric pressures make Denali seem like a mountain that is much taller than its 6194 meters would imply.

Denali also happens to have the greatest vertical gain of any mountain on the planet, rising some 5181 meters (17,000 ft) above the surrounding countryside. In comparison, Everest rises to a higher overall altitude, but it is a mere 3962 meters (13,000 ft) above the area around it. These interesting characteristics of Denali help to make it a popular climb, particularly with those who have aspirations of taking on an 8000-meter peak at some point.

Interestingly enough, ExWeb has an article today that reports that there has been exceptionally great weather on Denali so far this season. That has led to a surprisingly high success rate for so early in the season. According to the story, more than 157 climbers have already summited this year, with 226 total attempts. That puts the success rate at 69%, far above the typical 52% that is the historical average and light years better than last year's dismal 41%. 2012 was an especially bad year for weather with very few good windows for going up to the summit.

ExWeb says that there are 984 climbers registered to attempt Denali this year and most of them (909) will go up the standard West Buttress route. At the moment, there are 397 climbers on the mountain, with the biggest pushes yet to come. The National Park Service actually limits the number of permits issued (what a novel concept!) to just 1500 during the peak season to help keep congestion to a minimum and allow them to lend aid as needed. With this spate of good weather, it has been reportedly quite thus far.

Over the coming weeks we're sure to hear a lot of stories about the climbs on Denali. One of the more prominent teams that we'll be watching will be the aptly named Expedition Denali, a group that consists of all African-American climbers who are hoping to inspire youth of color to follow in their footsteps and to become more engaged with outdoor adventure. A worthy cause to be sure.

Expedition Denali: Inspiring Diversity In The Outdoors

Way back in May of last year I shared a story about an upcoming expedition to Denali that had some much bigger goals than simply reaching the summit of the highest peak in North America. The climb, which is being organized by NOLS, will feature a team that is entirely made up of African American mountaineers who hope to use their adventure as a platform to inspire young people from minority groups to engage with the outdoors. We all know that the young people of today are increasingly turning away from outdoor activities, and this is especially true amongst minority groups, but the team behind this climb – dubbed Expedition Denali – hope to serve as role models who can inspire kids of all ethnicities to reconnect with nature and discover their own adventures.

The expedition will take place in June of this year and will coincide with the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of Denali. The 6194-meter (20,320 ft) mountain located in the Alaska Range is always a challenge, even under the best of conditions. The weather on Denali is notriously fickle even during the summer months, and while its altitude doesn't compare with the high peaks in the Himalaya, it is every bit as cold and foreboding as those mountains, and often just as deadly.

But the team behind Expedition Denali is well aware of the challenges they face and they have been training and planning for this journey for a long time. For each of the dedicated men and women on the team, the bigger challenge is finding ways to connect with the children that they are hoping to inspire. One of the ways that they intend to do that is through a documentary of their climb. Organizers of the expedition hope to film every stage of their adventure and then produce a great film that will inspire the next generation of climbers to follow in their footsteps.

To that end, the team has launched a Kickstarter page to help fund this documentary. They're hoping to raise $107,500 to help with production costs. That is a lofty number to be sure, but the Expedition Denali team is confident that they can reach that goal and create a film that is worthy of their high expectations.

The video below will give you more information on Expedition Denali and their plans. This is an important expedition for a number of reasons and certainly one worthy of supporting through Kickstarter or other means. I'm looking forward to following along with the team once they start their adventure in a few months time.

Winter Climbs 2013: Stalled On Nanga Parbat

The winter climbing season continued this past weekend with teams on various mountains finding different levels of success. As we move to the heart of winter, the weather continues to dictate the pace and ultimately the chances of successfully summiting. But with a month and a half still to go in the season, it is still too early to tell if any of the climbers will actually achieve their goals.

On Nanga Parbat, bad weather has been slamming the mountain for the past few days, bringing plenty of new snowfall with it. Reports indicate that more than a meter of fresh powder has been deposited on its slopes and as a result, most of the teams have elected to stay huddled in Base Camp or move down the mountain for the relative comfort of one of the nearby villages.

One such team is the Hungarian-American squad, which is now down a man thanks to the departure of Zoltan Acs. Zoli was forced to abandon his attempt at a winter summit of Nanga after frostbite from a previous expedition flared up in his feet. The condition was making the climb painful and slow, so he wisely decided to call it quits and head home to see a doctor. His mates David Klein and Ian Overton will continue on without him, returning to BC mid-week to resume their efforts.

The Italian-French team of Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol have also descended from Base Camp to enjoy some relaxation at lower altitudes. After warming up on nearby Ganalo, they're now acclimatized and ready to take on Nanga. But the fresh snow is preventing that at the moment, so they're taking advantage of the time to rest and get ready for the next phase of their expedition. The forecast says the weather should improve on February 6, so they should be returning to BC shortly in order to take advantage of the improved conditions.

French snowboarder Joel Wischnewski remains on Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face where he continues to face health issues. He says that he is bleeding from his intestines but refuses to entertain the idea of giving up on the climb and returning home to seek help. Joel has been struggling with all kinds of physical ailments on this expedition and this is just the latest affliction but he says that it isn't preventing him from making progress and that he is now simply waiting out the bad weather in Camp 2 before going higher. Lets hope he knows what he is doing and that this story won't end in tragedy.

Meanwhile, over on Broad Peak, the Polish team continues to push upwards. Their latest rotation saw some of the men fixing ropes above Camp 2 and they have now managed to complete that task up to 6550 meters (21,489 ft). Their last dispatch came on Saturday, so barring any change in the weather, it is likely that they are now above that point as well and may have established Camp 3.

Lonnie Dupre was finally successfully evacuated from Denali this weekend and is back home in Minnesota. His home team promises video footage from the climb and a debrief to come down the line, but for now they've posted the video below as a short interview with Lonnie following his third attempt at a January solo-summit of the mountain. It has some interesting insights from a man who has seen and done a lot in his career.


Denali 2013: Return from Lonnie Dupre on Vimeo.

Winter Climbs 2013: Poor Weather, Poor Health And Poor Gear

It has been another couple of eventful days for the climbers attempting winter ascents in Pakistan. For some, it progress has come in slow, measured movements, while for others the challenges of the season are making things difficult. As always, it is the weather that dictates progress this time of year and the next few days don't look particularly promising, especially on Nanga Parbat.

We'll start today on that 8125 meter (26,657 foot) giant, where the Hungarian-American team continues to have their struggles. Since arriving in Base Camp nearly a month ago, the team has had to deal with a generator that has been less than cooperative. A few days back they had thought that they had  managed to fix it, but it has gone out again. In their 28 days on the mountain, they've actually only had power for five of them, which is making things uncomfortable in BC to say the least. To add to their challenge, the weather forecast says that they'll have bad weather for the next five or six days, so the team has elected to move down to the village of Chilas to rest and wait. So far they haven't been able to climb above Camp 1, which has been frustrating.

The team is also losing one of its members as Zoltan Acs won't be returning to Base Camp after their brief respite. The Hungarian climber has frostbite in his feet, exasperated from past bouts with the affliction, and now he'll head home to have a doctor take a look at if for him. Losing a teammate won't help the morale of the squad, but they aren't giving up just yet.

Over on the Rupal Face, Joel Wischnewski is having equipment issues of his own. The pump has gone out on his kerosine stove and while he has been able to come up with a makeshift solution, he can barely keep a flame going. He says that he is able to melt snow for water, but otherwise it isn't much good for cooking. He is currently in ABC, where his food supplies are beginning to run low and most of his gas canisters are cached at Camp 2. Joel's health has also taken a turn for the worse and he reports a nasty bout of diarrhea, vomiting and bleeding from his nose, all at the same time. The French snowboarder believes that he has Crohn's disease, something that has afflicted other members of his family, but he seems determined to say on the mountain and continue his climb, even if the situation seems rather dire at the moment.

The Italian-French team of Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol are finally on Nanga and have finished a round of acclimatization. After warming up on a nearby peak, they seem primed and ready to give their primary objective a go. Daniele has been on anti-biotics to battle an infected wisdom tooth, but that isn't stopping the expedition from moving forward. They've now been as high as 6400 meters (20,997 ft), where they have built a camp site. Now, they'll simply watch the weather, continue shuttling gear and wait for an opportunity to go higher.

Over on Broad Peak, the Polish team were set back by a bout of stomach illness that prevented one of their rotations going off as planned. But they haven't let that slow them down too much and they now have C2 firmly established at 6200 meters (20,341 ft). Yesterday they stared fixing ropes to Camp 3, as they continually push up the mountain in a very methodical approach. As long as the weather remains good, they seem to be able to make very steady progress.

Back on Denali, Lonnie Dupre is still waiting for a ride home. After abandoning his latest attempt at a January summit earlier in the week, he has descended to Base Camp and is simply waiting on a weather window. He has clear skies in BC and has even managed to dig a runway for the plane, but the weather back in Talkeetna hasn't been good, so no planes are getting out. They're hoping that will change over the weekend and Lonnie can head home at last.

That's all for now. More news next week.

Winter Climbs 2013: Poles Reach Camp 2 On Broad Peak

It may only be Wednesday but it has already been an active week on most of the major winter climbs that are currently underway. With things winding down on Denali, our attention is turning to Pakistan, where the teams are just getting started on their ambitious climbs. With six weeks left in winter, there is still a lot of work to be done, but so far there has been solid progress by a number of squads.

Today we'll start on Broad Peak, where the Polish team is going about their expedition in a systematic and methodical fashion. After establishing Camp 1 last weekend, most of the squad has already completed at least one acclimatization round and have started their next rotation. For the past few days they have been fixing ropes up to Camp 2, located at 6200 meters (20,341 feet), successfully reaching that point yesterday. The climbers who shuttled the first gear to C2 will now return to Base Camp for a rest, while their compatriots bring up the next loads and start the task of fixing the ropes to C3. It is a very professional and efficient approach to the climb, which will hopefully pay dividends in a few weeks time. For now, the weather is holding steady and they are making good progress.

Over on Nanga Parbat things are starting to pick-up as well. The Hungarian-American team still isn't sharing a ton of updates, but we do know that they have been working their way to Camp 2 as well. They did get some good news a few days back in the form of a working generator which one of the Sherpas was able to repair. That should make things more comfortable in BC at least, even if it hasn't facilitated more dispatches just yet.

Snowboarding mountaineer Joel Wischnewski has shared a few dispatches from the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat over the past few days. Not a lot of information on his progress but interesting anecdotes from the mountain none the less. He is up in ABC at the moment, having descended from an extended stay in Camp 2. He seems to be relieved about being safely back down the mountain, but has had to clear his mind of a few things before he begins the climb once again. While he's battled sickness in recent days, he has not been able to focus on the task at hand. But after spending some time off the mountain with a friend in Rupal, he now seems reinvigorated to begin anew.

Joel has regularly posted about the animals and their tracks that he has seen in and around his camps and he reports that an ibex has been a regular visitor. The animal has been sifting through his trash looking for tasty things to nibble on and has even made off with one of his socks. The sock was sitting on his tent so it could dry in the sun and the ibex decided it might be fun to make off with it. Wischnewski discovered it further down the trail as obviously the creature decided it wasn't edible at some point.

The Italian-French team with aspirations of climbing Nanga Parbat is finally headed to the mountain. They've been acclimatizing on Ganalo and had hoped to summit that peak as part of their preperation. They gave it quite a go, but deep snow and bad weather turned them back before the summit. Now they'll head to Nanga where they'll rest a day or two before starting up the mountain, which is their true goal for the winter season.

Finally, Lonnie Dupre may have canceled his plans for a January summit on Denali, but he is still waiting for a flight home. He made his way down to Base Camp yesterday and is hoping for the weather to clear so a plane can come pick him up. He's sharing BC with Japanese climber Masatoshi Kuriaki, who is there to attempt a winter ascent of Mt. Hunter (4442 meters/14,573 ft). The forecast indicates that the weather may improve tomorrow or Friday, allowing Lonnie to head home at last.

That's all for now. More updates soon!

Winter Climbs 2013: Dupre Descends On Denali, Progress In Pakistan

It was another busy and active weekend in the mountains for our winter mountaineers. As usual, weather dictates when they can move and patience is the name of the game. Over the past few days, one of the winter expeditions came to and end, while the others have started the process of strategically placing themselves for the challenges ahead.

The big news coming out of the weekend is that Lonnie Dupre had abandoned his third attempt at a January ascent of Denali. A few days ago he was able to climb up to High Camp at 17,200 feet (5242 meters) and he had the summit squarely in his sights. At that point it looked like he might actually have a chance of ending three years of frustration, but the weather forecast predicted that winds would pick-up, so Lonnie took a cautious "wait and see" approach. That proved to be a wise decision as the winds did indeed increase in speed, making a summit bid a very dangerous proposition.

With the winds keeping the summit out of reach, Dupre descended to his camp at 14,200 feet (4328 meters) to rest and weigh his options. The forecast in the days ahead didn't look favorable however, so he decided to pull the plug and head home. He will be descending the mountain today and if conditions allow, a plane will fly in to retrieve him.

In Pakistan things appear to be progressing a bit after a slow start to the season. On Nanga Parbat, the Hungarian-American team has now fully established their Camp 1 and have even spent a couple of nights acclimatizing there. If the weather has held out, they should also have climbed up to Camp 2 and cached some of their gear there. They continue to struggle with communications from the mountain and it isn't clear yet if their back-up generator has arrived, but at least they're making progress on the climb itself.

Also on Nanga Parbat is snowboarder Joel Wischnewski who's latest dispatch simply reads: "I'm in Rupal, and safe. More news soon. Bye." It is hard to determine exactly what that means, but we can assume that Joel has returned to the Rupal face after a recent bout of sickness and is proceeding with his climb. Hopefully he has recovered from the bug that was keeping him in BC and he can now proceed with his acclimatization process.

Finally, the Polish squad on Broad Peak has made significant progress after arriving in Base Camp last week. Yesterday, the team moved up to 5600 meters (18,372 feet) and built their Camp 1 at that location. Several of the team members even spent the night at the location and should be headed back down to BC today. Meanwhile, a second group of climbers will proceed up to C1 today and begin fixing ropes to Camp 2.

This is a very professional, workman like approach to climbing an 8000-meter peak in winter, something the Poles have plenty of experience with. They'll continue to send small two- and three-man teams up the mountain to slowly and methodically build their camps and fix the ropes. By the time they're done, they'll be completely acclimatized to the altitude and ready to make their summit bids. That is still some time off however and there is a lot of work yet to be done.

That's all for now. More news as these climbs develop.

Winter Climbs 2013: Resting On Denali And Broad Peak

We have a few brief updates today from the ongoing winter climbs that are taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. After what seems like a slow start, the climbers are finding their strides at last and we'll soon know if they have a legitimate chance of topping out on their respective mountains this year.

On Denali, Lonnie Dupre took the opportunity to rest today as he acclimatizes to the higher altitudes. He's built himself a secure camp at 14, 200 feet (4328 meters) and has remained safe and sound inside his snow cave. Clear skies have allowed him to charge his electronic devices as well, as he gets ready for the next stage of the climb. Weather permitting, he'll start to move up to 16,000 feet (4876 meters) as early as tomorrow, as he watches the forecasts and the clock to see if he can complete the expedition before the end of the month.

The Italian-French team that is planning an ascent of Nanga Parbat continues their acclimatization on Ganalo. They're hoping to take one more rotation on that mountain, and possibly for the summit, before heading over to their ultimate prize. They report dicey weather in the region at the moment, although they have stashed gear higher up the peak and they have planned another push beginning today, when conditions were expected to improve.

There has been no updates on the progress of the Hungarian-American squad on NP. Last we heard they had retreated back to Base Camp after lousy weather turned them around on an acclimatization rotation. They are also still waiting for their generator to arrive, which will hopefully improve communication and make for a more comfortable time in BC.

Also on Nanga Parbat is Joel Wischnewski, who it appears will be attempting to snowboard down the mountain at some point. He is currently in Base Camp and categorizing the animals that he sees and hears there, including birds, ibex, wolves and crazy mountaineers. He hopes to head back up the mountain after he recovers from a bout of sickness.

Over on Broad Peak, the Polish Team arrived in Base Camp yesterday and are now getting themselves comfortable. The expect to start climbing in another day or two and are aiming to have Camp 1 established at 5600 meters (18,372 ft) by Sunday. After a long journey just to get to BC, they seem eager to get started with the actual climb itself.

Finally, not a winter climb per se, but definitely a cold one. Leo Houlding and his team have successfully topped out on Ulvetanna in Antarctica, completing a new line on that difficult rock face. The 1300 meter (4265 ft) mountain may not sound like much in terms of altitude, but considering how bad the weather can be and how cold the temperatures are, it was definitely a challenge. The team spent ten days working the wall, which is a technical climb for sure.

Congrats to the entire team on a job well done!

Winter Climbs 2013: Slow Progress For Everyone

Over the past few days it has been slow going on nearly every major winter climb. That is to be expected at this time of the year of course, as patience is perhaps the most important attribute for those who want to be successful in the coldest and harshest of seasons. With two months of winter left on the calendar however, there is still plenty of time for most to be successful on their respective peaks.

One climber who doesn't have the luxury of time however is Lonnie Dupre. That is because he has set a goal to climb Denali in January, which leaves him with just ten days to go before his deadline falls for another year. 

When we last checked in, he was stuck at 9700 feet (2956 meters) waiting out another snow storm, although he did report that temperatures were warmer than they have been in the past. Fortunately, conditions have improved on the mountain and as of this morning, the skies are clear. That has allowed Dupre to move up the slope and stash some gear at higher altitudes. According to his latest report, Lonnie has now climbed up to 13,600 ft (4145 meters) after 11 long hours yesterday. Today he hopes to proceed up to 14,200 ft (4328 meters) where he'll rest, assess his health and the weather forecast, and decide where to go next. While weather conditions overall are improved, he is still battling deep snow along his route.

Jumping over to the Himalaya, the Polish team that has its sights set on Broad Peak is still making its way into Base Camp. After a long journey overland to Skardu, they've made their way to Askole, where they've begun trekking to the Godwin-Austen Glacier, which they hope to reach tomorrow. From there, it shouldn't be long before they've established camp and begin their acclimatization rotations. At the moment, they report cold, but improving conditions across the region. On Nanga Parbat the teams are finding it tough going as well. Poor weather conditions have kept several teams in BC where they wait for their chances to go up. The Hungarian-American squad had hoped to climb up to Camp 1 last week but turned back amidst bad weather. The team is still waiting for the arrival of their generator as well, which will make life in Base Camp much more comfortable. 

The Italian-French team that is planning an attempt on NP is finishing up their acclimatization on Ganalo Peak. They're hoping to complete their stay on that mountain with an overnight at 6000 meters (19,685 ft) before proceeding with their true objective. Whether or not conditions allowed them to do that remains unclear at this time. 

Also on Nanga Parbat is snowboarder Joel Wischnewski who is taking on the Rupal Face. Joel has been on the mountain for some time and has made solid progress, caching his gear at Camp 2. But he is also dealing with some health issues which have left him drained and dehydrated. At the moment, he is working on getting his strength back before taking on the challenging route up the wall. Presumably he hopes to climb, then snowboard back down the mountain, which would surely be quite the ride. 

Stay tuned for more updates later int he week. 

Winter Climbs 2012: Progress On Denali, Slow Going In The Karakoram

We have a few updates this morning on the major ongoing winter climbs as teams continue to tackle the various challenges they've set for themselves this season. As is typical in the winter, progress is often slow, but as long at the climbers are moving forward, everything is good. Of course, as always, the weather dictates the pace and direction of the action, and we all know at this time of the year, the weather is fickle indeed.

We'll start on Denali, where Lonnie Dupre has made some progress after being stuck at 8800 feet (2682 meters) waiting out a snow storm. Yesterday a lull in the storm allowed him to move up the mountain, settling in at about 9970 feet (3038 meters) before conditions began to take a turn for the worse once again.

If you've been following Lonnie's expeditions to Denali over the past few years, you probably know that he has taken the unique approach of not carrying a tent with him, choosing instead to dig snow caves to serve as shelter. In his latest dispatch he actually said that he wished he had brought a tent on this expedition. It seems temperatures are not nearly as cold as they have been in previous years, and the warmer weather is making everything wetter. As a consequence, staying in the snow caves is not as comfortable as it has been previously. Still, he's making the best of the situation and his spirits remain high.

While the weather has been bad so far, the forecast is for improved conditions in the days ahead. With eight feet of snow on the mountain in just a few days, breaking trail is going to be tough work. But Lonnie indicated that he is rested and ready to move up as soon as the weather allows. That could happen as early as this weekend.

Moving over to the Karakoram, it seems Nanga Parbat is the place to be this season. In addition to the Hungarian-American team, there is now a small squad of Italian and French climbers in Base Camp as well. The former team is reportedly off on an acclimatization trek at the moment while they await the arrival of their missing gear. Once that equipment shows up in camp, they should have more comfortable living quarters and better communications equipment too. Meanwhile, the Italian-Franco team is reporting that the weather is not good with high winds and temperatures hovering around -39ºC/F. Those temperatures have kept everything frozen, including their food and even their sanitary wipes that are used for keeping clean. They have managed to climb as high as 6608 meters (21,679 ft) however, so their own acclimatization process is going about as well as can be expected at this point.

Finally, the Polish Broad Peak team has arrived in Skardu, where they are busily getting their gear organized and putting the final touches on their planning for the climb. They report that the roads into the small town were impassable due to bad weather, but conditions have started to improve now and temperatures have risen. They'll travel to Askole by Jeep today where they'll being their trek to BC itself. Once there, they actually begin the real work of actually climbing the mountain.

For a look at the city of Skardu, the launching point for many Karakoram climbing expeditions, have a look at the video below. Much like Kathmandu or Namche Bazaar, it seems that gear shops are popular there.

Winter Climbs 2013: News From Nanga Parbat

Yesterday I posted an update on some of the big winter climbs that are now underway but noted that there had been no word from the Hungarian-American Winter Nanga Parbat expedition. Today at long last we received an update via the team's Facebook page, giving us some news on their progress thus far.

According to the dispatch, the team, which consists of Hungarian climbers David Klein and Zoltan Acs, as well as American Ian Overton, climbed up to 5100 meters (16,732 ft) yesterday as part of their on going acclimatization process. They are currently back in Base Camp however, where they continue to wait for the rest of their gear to arrive.

It seems that a significant amount of their equipment has been MIA since their arrival in Pakistan and it is having an effect on their living conditions in BC at the moment. The climbers are currently without a generator and warmer community tent, although both are expected to arrive in the next few days. The generator will allow them to keep their communications gear more fully charged and stay in better contact with their support team. Hopefully that means more regular updates on their progress once they are fully supplied.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre is continuing to struggle with weather conditions on Denali. He remained at 8800 feet (2682 meters) due to the poor conditions and his home team reports that the mountain was hit with seven feet of new snow on Sunday, making it nearly impossible for any movement at the time. Depending on where it fell, that could bring some seriously unstable conditions to the region, making it even more challenging to go up. With two weeks to go, it seems like Lonnie will need a major improvement to the weather to have a shot at the summit, but so far January hasn't exactly been the most cooperative month for climbing.

That's all for  now. More news to come as it breaks.

Winter Climbs 2013: Struggles On Denali And In The Karakoram

No one ever said climbing in winter was easy. That point is being reiterated to some of the teams who are hoping to stake their claim on climbing history, as climbers in several locations across the globe are experiencing bad weather as they attempt to scale their mountain of choice. In some cases, they're even having problems just getting to that mountain in the first place.

Late last week Lonnie Dupre found a weather window that actually allowed him to go to the mountain, but he hasn't had a whole lot of good weather since. The polar explore caught a plane out of Talkeetna last Tuesday and spent the first day and a half skiing across the Kahiltna Glacier just to get to the starting point of his climb. Since then, he's been dealing with deep snow, high winds and extremely cold temperatures. In other words, pretty much standard conditions on Denali in January.

Despite whiteout conditions and postholing through two feet (60 cm) of snow, he has managed to climb as high as 8800 feet (2682 meters) on the mountain, where he has been stashing gear and building snow shelters to protect himself from the frigid winter. It has been tough going however, and in his most recent dispatch, we're told that Lonnie only spent about 4 hours climbing thanks to the generally poor weather and challenging terrain. He still has two weeks to go to complete his solo January ascent of the mountain, but just like his previous two attempts on this climb, unless the weather cooperates, he's not even going to get a look at the summit.

Alaska isn't the only place dealing with difficult winter conditions. Apparently the Polish team that intends to climb Broad Peak has met with some horrible weather in Pakistan as well. The team hopes to reach Skardu, which is the main city in the region. From there, they'll launch their trek to the mountain, although it seems it is unusually cold and icy in the region too. In their latest update, we're told that houses in Skardu don't have heat and that the streets are frozen over with ice, keeping residents of the town locked inside for several days. Roads in and out are also said to be blocked and extra firewood and kerosene are now at a premium. It has gotten so bad in fact that six people have frozen to death in recent days. Remember, this is all before the team even gets to the mountain!


The climbers are hoping to get to Skardu tomorrow, where they would traditionally grab some last minute supplies and gear before starting the trek for BP Base Camp. If the weather doesn't improve however, they may find it impossible to get what they need and leave town for their next destination. We'll have to wait to see if they do actually arrive on time and if so, how long they are delayed in setting out for the 8051 meter (26,414 ft) mountain.

Finally, there has been no new updates from the Hungarian-American team taking on Nanga Parbat this winter. The last we heard, the team was scouting a route up to Camp 1, shuttling gear and acclimatizing in the process. Since then there has been little word on the progress of David Klein, Zoltan Acs and Ian Overton, who are hoping to claim the first winter ascent of the 8125 meter (26,657 ft) Himalayan giant. At this point, we can only assume that they've at least climbed up to C1 and possibly higher, but until that is confirmed, all we can do is wait and hope for the best.

As is typical with these winter climbs, everything is dictated by the weather. It sounds like the season is off to a rough start on the climbers however, so lets all keep our fingers crossed that things improve and these teams will get a legitimate chance at tagging the summit. Stay tuned for more soon.