Himalaya 2014: Summits Across the Himalaya!

As expected, there were a number of summit pushes across the 8000 meter peaks this past weekend, with climbers finding success on several mountains. It was a busy couple of days in the Himalaya, where teams sought to take advantage of a weather window, and top out during a period of relatively calm winds and good all around conditions.

We'll start on Kangchenjunga, where Denis Urubko summited the mountain solo after his teammates turned back out of fear of an unstable approach to the summit. Climbing along the North Face, Denis completed a new route that is a variant of the British Route used in the past. He has already returned to Camp 4, where his teammates, Alex Txikon, Adam Bielecki, Artjom Braun and Dmitri Sinev, were waiting. Alex and Adam had hoped to summit, and traverse down the South Face, but conditions were not good for such an attempt. All members of the team will now head down to Base Camp, and most likely prepare to head home.

On the South Side of Kangchenjunga, ExWeb is reporting that Spanish climber Carlos Soria has also topped out, nabbing his eleventh 8000-meter peak at the age of 75. He was joined on the summit by Italian Marco Camandona and Finnish climber Samuli Mansikka, who topped out without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Jumping over to Cho Oyu, Mike and Matt Moniz successfully topped out on Saturday, right on schedule. They had a very narrow weather window for their summit bid, as high winds are expected back on that mountain today. After setting out at 4 AM, the reached the summit at 11 AM that morning, before descending all the way back down to ABC before taking a rest. The father-son team had originally planned to now travel to the South Side of Everest, and attempt a double-summit of that mountain and Lhotse. With things shut down on the South Side however, we'll have to wait to see if they just head home instead.


Mike Horn and Fred Roux found success on Makalu on Saturday as well. They reached the summit of that 8463 meter (27,765 ft) mountain without supplemental oxygen or high altitude Sherpa support. Fred topped out at about 10:30 AM local time, while Mike followed along at 4:00 PM in the afternoon. That should give you an indication of how good the weather was, at that is late in the day for summit. Both men descended the mountain safely and reunited in ABC.

Other climbers who have reportedly topped out on Makalu this weekend include Serbian climber Dragan Celikovic, Canadians Al Hancock and Monique Richard, Norwegian Arvid Lennard Lahit, and  French alpinist Philippe Gatta with Pasang Gombu.

Not everyone was successful on Makalu however, as ExWeb reports that a team of Indian climbers led by Arjun Vajpai were forced to turn back just 150 meters below the summit due to exhaustion and a lack of fixed ropes going to the top. Other teams were in position to summit yesterday and today, but we'll have to wait for further confirmation on their success.

ExWeb also reports that there were 10 summits on Dhaulagiri this weekend as well, with clients of Seven Summits Treks topping out on Saturday that includes two Chinese climbers Jing Luo and Zhu Gang, Peruvian Rimac Trejo Victor and Nepalese clients Nirmal Purja and Krishna Thapa Magar.

Meanwhile, the climbers on Everest's North Side continue to wait for their turn to come. A weather window is now expected later this week so that rope fixing can be completed at long last. Most teams are now looking at making their summit push starting on Friday and extending into the weekend. We'll just have to wait to see how things play out then.

Stay tuned for more updates.

Himalaya 2014: It is Go Time in the Himalaya!

After weeks of acclimatizing, and days of waiting for a weather window, it appears that it is finally time for the summit season to begin in the Himalaya. All across the region there are reports of good conditions in the mountains, with the high winds that have been buffeting the area quieting down at last. That means it should be a busy weekend on the 8000-meter peaks, where teams have launched their summit bids at last.

We'll start on Shishapangma, where ExWeb is reporting that there have already been successful summits, with more yet to come. A team of four French climbers, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel, Antoine Bletton and Max Bonniot topped out on Wednesday via the South Face, and are already safely back in Base Camp. Meanwhile, teams on the North Side of the mountain are on the move as well, and should have a legitimate shot at reaching the summit sometime this weekend.

Over on Makalu, Mike Horn and Fred Roux have launched their summit bid. They climbed up to 6800 meters (22,309 ft) yesterday, and are homing to move up to Camp 2 at 7500 meters (24,606 ft) today. They report that high winds are still making things difficult on the upper slopes, but they expect them to quiet down, and allow for an attempt on the summit on Sunday.


Other teams are on the move on Makalu as well, which is where Chris Jensen Burke is tuning up for an attempt on K2 later this summer. She expects her squad to be heading up this weekend as well, as everyone looks to take advantage of the weather window ahead. There hasn't been an update from Chris in a couple of days, but it is safe to assume that she, along with the rest of her team, are eying a summit on Sunday too.

The team of  Alex Txikon, Adam Bielecki and Dmitri Sinev, Denis Urubko and Artem Braun are looking to open a new route on Kangchenjunga, and after acclimatizing along the normal route on the North Face, they are on the move as well. If everything goes as scheduled, they should top out tomorrow or Sunday, with Txikon and Bielecki looking to descend on the South Side, completing a traverse of the mountain. The team is climbing without supplemental oxygen, or high altitude Sherpa support.

On Cho Oyu, it seems this will be a very narrow weather window, with storms predicted to move in early next week. With that in mind, Mike and Matt Moniz have launched their summit bid, with the hopes of moving quickly to the top, and getting back down before the weather window slams shut. They left Advanced Base Camp yesterday, and should be Camp 2 today, where they'll rest for a brief period before making a push all the way to the summit, which should happen tomorrow morning local time.

Conspicuous with its absence on this update is Everest of course. The North Side has been effectively shut down the past few days due to high winds. The ropes are reportedly fixed up to Camp 3, and Sherpa teams are preparing to install them all the way to the summit, which looks to be finished around the 20th or 21st of the month. After that, teams will begin heading up, and may even be in a position to summit soon after the rope fixing is complete.

On the South Side of the mountain, where the two women climbers are making attempts on Everest and Lhotse, it is impossible to say what their schedule is. Rope fixing needs to be done there as well, and both of the ladies are probably still acclimatizing to the altitude. That story is an evolving one of course, so we'll just have to wait to see how it plays out once they come back down the mountain.

I'll post updates next week with results of these summit bids. Hopefully everyone gets up and down safely this weekend.

Himalaya 2014: Waiting for a Weather Window

It has been a week or so since I posted a general update from the Himalaya. During that time, not much has changed, as most of the teams have been simply waiting for a weather window to open. As the middle of May fast approaches, most of the climbers are now acclimated, and are just biding their time for the right opportunity to come. Over the past week, high winds and snow have been common across the entire region, but that is about to change, signaling the start of summit pushes on several mountains.

We'll start on the North Side of Everest, where roughly 100 climbers are waiting for their opportunity to go up the hill. Rope fixing is complete up to Camp 3, located at 8300 meters (27,230 ft), but high winds are preventing anyone from going any higher at the moment. Until the Sherpa team from the Chinese-Tibet Mountaineering Association can complete the job of installing the ropes, no one will be able to summit. But a weather window is approaching, and most teams are now expecting their summit pushes to begin next week. Expect possible summits on May 21. Until then, the teams are resting in Base Camp.

Over on the South Side, there continue to be reports of guerrilla climbers who are defying the closure of the mountain to make their own attempts on the summit. As previously mentioned, they include American Cleo Weidlich and Chinese mountaineer Jing Wang, both of whom have reportedly chartered a helicopter to fly them to Camp 2, thus avoiding the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. Rumor has it, these two women may not be alone on the mountain. At least not for long. There are some indications that others may try to join them at Camp 2, using the same helicopter. These stories only help to perpetuate what has already been a strange season on Everest. What happens from here will certainly be interesting to watch unfold, and will make a great story for sure.


Elsewhere, Mike Horn and Fred Roux are prepping for their summit bid on Makalu. They've been waiting for a good window for some time as well, and it looks like it'll come late this week. They hope to begin their push on Friday, and summit over the weekend. They had been planning on an alpine style ascent, but considering the delays, and the general schedule at this point, it appears they'll be moving up with the rest of the teams on the mountain. They will climb without the use of supplemental oxygen, or Sherpa support however.

Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke is also on Makalu, and she reported in from ABC yesterday. She says that her team is ready to go as well, but high winds are keeping them grounded for now. They are eyeing a summit bid this weekend as well however, with the current schedule having the push set to begin on May 14 or 15, with everyone topping out on May 17 or 18. She indicated that rope fixing is nearly complete, and while there are some challenging sections that will need to be overcome along the way, she is feeling confident as she prepares to head up.

Jumping over to Cho Oyu, Mike and Matt Moniz are in a holding pattern as well. The weather has been poor there too, and it looks like it'll only get worse next week. They are now eyeing a narrow weather window which will arrive over the weekend. The winds are expected to die down on the summit on May 17, which may give them the opportunity they need to dash to the top, and get back down. Hopefully they'll be able to achieve their objective in that time frame.

Denis Urubko has posted an update from Kangchenjunga, where he and his team are attempting a new route along the North Ride. After acclimatizing for some time on the standard route, they are now preparing to begin the real work they came to the Himalaya for. The first pair of climber moved up to Camp 1 yesterday, and should push ahead to Camp 3 today. That will put them at 7500 meters (24,606 ft), with some tricky rock faces to overcome. Denis reports that high winds have been an issue there as well, and that they'll need to die down before they can make their true push to the top. As is usual with this team, they are climbing in alpine style, without Sherpa support, and without oxygen.

Finally, a quick note on Annapurna. You haven't heard me mention it much this season, but there were a couple of summit attempts on the mountain a few weeks back. But conditions were once again far too dangerous, and all climbers were turned back before they could reach the top. Those expeditions then picked up their gear and left Base Camp, determining that Annapurna was simply too dangerous to climb this spring. This is the second year in a row without any successful summits on this mountain during the spring. Last year, there were several summits during the fall, so we'll have to wait to see if success can be found there once again.

That's all for now. More soon.

Himalaya 2014: Progress Reports and More Tragedy In The Mountains

The spring season is progressing reasonably well in the Himalaya, where teams have been going about the business of getting acclimated for their summit pushes ahead. The weather has been stable across the region, and this has allowed the climbers to make real progress on their respective mountains. With the calendar now turning to May, things are about to get much busier, but as always, the weather will dictate when any summit bids can begin.

We'll start today with a bit of sad news. Explorer's Web is reporting that two climbers have died on Ama Dablam after suffering from high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) or altitude sickness. They were Russian guide Victor Igolkin, and a Russian journalist by the name of Pavel Ivanovsky. They were in Base Camp at 5000 meters (16,404 ft) at the time. The 6812 meter (22,349 ft) mountain is a popular climbing peak for those testing their skills in the Himalaya, and it has one of the more well known, and dramatic profiles of any of the peaks in the Khumbu region. The two men were preparing to make a summit bid when they took ill. My condolences to friend and family.

In the same report, ExWeb also says that a team of Ukrainian climbers have put up a new route on Lobuche East. Details are a bit sparse, but apparently they spent 8 days on the ascent, with 3 nights spent out on the big wall. After completing the route, which they named Two Arrows Flight, they made a harrowing descent in heavy snow, with no visibility. Thankfully, it seems that they were able to get down safely.


Elsewhere, Mike Horn and Fred Roux have returned to Advanced Base Camp on Makalu, where they are preparing to make their summit push over the next three days, weather permitting. They hope to make an alpine style ascent, without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support. The two men have already been as high as 7700 meters (25,262 ft) in a bid for the summit last week, but were turned back due to  high winds and a looming storm. They're hoping to have more success this time out.

Chris Jensen Burke is also on Makalu, and her latest audio dispatch says that her team has just returned to ABC after spending a few nights in C1 and C2. She says that they are about five days behind some of the lead teams, and that there are a few teams that are about the same number of days behind hers. That means that everyone is staggered out nicely across the route, which should eliminate any traffic jam issues when summit day comes.

Over on Cho Oyu, Mike and Matt Moniz are back in ABC after spending some time at Camps 1 and 2 as well. They are now waiting for a weather window to open so they can launch their summit bid as well. The next couple of days look dicey, but they may be able start the ascent later in the week. You may recall, this father-son team were hoping to acclimate on Cho Oyu in Tibet, then go back to Nepal to attempt an Everest-Lhotse double header. While Lhotse remains out of reach, the question is whether or not they might get a shot at Everest from the North Side. We know that China is not allowing anyone to cross over into Tibet who wasn't originally scheduled to be there, which has left those climbers from the South Side out in the cold. But perhaps Mike and Matt will be successful in getting on someone else's permit for Everest since they are already on the Tibetan side of the border. They are squarely focused on the challenge of Cho Oyu at the moment, so we'll just have to wait to see how things progress.

Of course, things on Everest are moving ahead as well. Expect a longer update from that mountain in the next day or two, but the teams have now moved up to the North Col, and have done some acclimatization there, while they wait for the Sherpas to fix ropes to the summit. The installation of the ropes will likely be complete sometime late next week, which frees up the teams to start their summit bids as well.

Lots of things happening at the moment. I'll keep you posted of any new developments.

Himalaya 2014: First Summits Of The Season!

With all of the press surrounding Everest over the past few weeks, it is easy to forget that there are other climbs taking place throughout the Himalaya. While everyone watched to see how things would unfold on the Big Hill, other teams were quietly going about their business. As a result, we now have our first successful summits of the season, with a trio of climbers topping out on Shishapangma yesterday.

ExWeb is reporting that Peter Hámor, Horia Colibasanu and Justin Ionescu reached the 8027 meter (26,335 foot) summit of Shisha on the morning of April 30. They made the climb without the use of bottled oxygen, and they did not use high altitude Sherpas to support the expedition. For Hámor, this was his 12 successful summit of an 8000 meter peak, and the 8th for Colibasanu. All three men are reportedly safely back down the mountain.

Elsewhere, Mike Horn and Fred Roux made it up to 7700 meters (25,262 ft) on Makalu before turning back on their summit attempt. High winds and extremely cold temperatures prevented them from reaching the top. They descended to ABC yesterday and will continue down to Base Camp today, where they'll wait for another weather window.

On their way down, they passed a team of Sherpas fixing ropes to the summit. The installation of those ropes will no doubt aid other climbers, such as Chris Jensen Burke, who will be making summit pushes in the days ahead, once they have completed their acclimatization process. Mike and Fred speculated that some of the Sherpas had transferred over from Everest in order to keep working this season.

Over on Cho Oyu, Matt and Mike Moniz are back in BC after spending some time at altitude while they acclimatized. They report that the winds have dropped significantly on that mountain, but heavy snows have followed, making it tough to move up at the moment. They are expecting a storm to hit this weekend, but after that another weather window opens. They hope to take advantage of it to make a possible summit bid.

Stay tuned for more updates in the days ahead. It looks like things are just about to get busy in the Himalaya.

Himalaya 2014: The Season Continues Away From Everest

With the South Side of Everest shut down, the news from the Himalaya will be a bit more sporadic and quiet as compared to other years. But now that the shock of the events that occurred on the Big Hill has started to wear off, everyone is getting back to work on the various 8000 meter peaks across the region. The season is still progressing, and there is much to report, even if it doesn't involve the tallest mountain in the world.

On Makalu, a summit push is underway. Mike Horn and Fred Roux set out from ABC yesterday, and hope to make camp at 7500 meters (24,606 ft) today. Once there, they plan to rest for a day, before continuing up to 8000 meters (26,246 ft) on Thursday. If they reach that point, they'll rest again, then make an attempt on the summit this weekend. Stay tuned for progress reports.

Also on Makalu is Chris Jensen Burke, the Australian climber who is tuning up for K2 this summer. Her most recent dispatch was from Advanced Base Camp last week, where she and her team were waiting for the weather to clear. They had just completed their Puja ceremony, and were preparing for their first rotations up the mountain as they began to acclimatize. She also touched on how the tragedy on Everest had impacted the Sherpas on her team as well.


Jumping over to Cho Oyu, Matt and Mike Moniz have been acclimatizing above Camp 1, where they are making solid progress. Daily storms have been hitting the mountain in the afternoon, but otherwise the acclimatization process has been going as smooth as possible. Their initial plan was to top out on Cho Oyu, located in Tibet, then move back across the border for an attempt on Everest and Lhotse. Obviously those plans are now changed after the shift in climate on the South Side.

Over on Kangchenjunga, the team of Denis Urubko, Alex Txikon and Adam Bielecki have started acclimatizing for their attempt at a new route along the North Face. Once fully prepared, they'll attempt an alpine style accent, without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support. The 8586 meter (28,169 ft) mountain is the third tallest in the world, and a considerable challenge along standard routes. Attempting a new route is one of the boldest climbs we'll see this spring.

ExWeb has posted brief updates from several Himalayan peaks, including Annapurna. They report that Norwegian climber Tore Sunde-Rasmussen came within 1000 meters (3280 ft) of the summit, before turning back this past weekend. He has now left the mountain and is on his way back home. Conditions are said to be difficult and dangerous again on Annapurna this spring, which is a notoriously difficult climb under the best of conditions. Last year, it was so bad that no one reached the summit during the spring season at all.

Also, Horia Colibasanu and Peter Hamor are currently back in BC following an acclimatization rotation on Shishapangma last weekend. They'll make a push up to Camp 3 in the next few days, weather permitting. They had intended to use Shisha as a warm-up for Everest, which they had hoped to do sans bottled oxygen. Now, they'll hope for a summit here, before going home.

That's a rundown of some of the things happening in the Himalaya at the moment. Watch for more updates in the days ahead.

Himalaya 2014: Progress Reports From Other Mountains

While hearts are heavy with the news from Everest today, climbers on other peaks have been checking in with progress reports as well. Much like the teams on the Big Hill, they are mostly just getting underway, and starting their acclimatization process. But with the season starting to roll, there will be more things to report soon.

Denis Urubko and his team, which includes, Artem Brown, Adam Bielecki, and Alex Txikon, are on their way to Kangchenjunga where they will soon begin their attempt of a new route on the North Face of that mountain. At 8586 meters (28,169 feet) in height, it is the third tallest peak in the world, behind only K2 and Everest. It is also a considerable challenge to climb no matter which route you choose. After acclimatizing in the region, Denis and company will attempt an alpine style ascent, without Sherpa support at altitude. They should arrive in Base Camp this weekend.

Mike Horn and Fred Roux are now in BC on Makalu, where they'll be attempting an alpine style ascent as well. They'll also being going up without Sherpa support, and sans bottled oxygen. They are just starting to get settled into place, and haven't posted too many updates just yet, but expect to hear more from them soon. Makalu is the fifth tallest mountain in the world, standing 8481 meters (27,825 ft) in height.

Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke has her sights set squarely on Makalu this spring as well, and should arrive in Base Camp today. She reports heavy snow on the trail, but BC is said to have no powder at the moment. This will serve as a warm-up for other things to come. This summer, Chris will head to Pakistan to attempt K2.

Finally, Mike and Matt Moniz are on Cho Oyu, where they are acclimatizing for their first 8000 meter peak of the year. The father and son team (Matt is just 16 years old), are attempting to put together a Himalayan triple-header this spring. Once they wrap up their climb in Tibet, they'll jump back across the border to Nepal, where they'll attempt Everest and Lhotse as well. They report that things are going great so far, and their first rotations have been successful ones.

Himalaya Fall 2013: More Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu

As predicted there has been another round of summits across the Himalaya this week as good weather allowed teams to move up in relatively stable conditions. So far the fall climbing season has gone pretty much by the book with few major issues or problems. There are still some major expeditions under way of course, but it seems that a number of the larger commercial operations are wrapping up their fall itineraries and starting to head home.

It has been a productive season on Manaslu where there have been two major summit pushes within the past week or so. More teams reached the top on that mountain yesterday with Chris Jensen Burke being amongst them. She sent an audio dispatch announcing the team's success and letting friends and family know that everyone had come back down the mountain safely. Her squad was just one of a number of groups to summit yesterday with more expected to top out today.

Over on Cho Oyu there has been a similar level of activity over the course of the season and the past few days. Several commercial squads topped out over the past few days including the IMG team as well as climbers from Amical Alpin and Adventure Peaks. The weather has remained stable on the mountain all through the season, which has helped facilitate safe climbing on the mountain. The most recent summiteers have already returned to Base Camp and are resting up before the trek home.

The weather hasn't remained quite so consistent on Shishapangma however and a number of teams have turned back on their summit bids there. Rich Emerson of the Ski Shisapangma squad turned back on his second summit attempt due to an excessive amount of soft snow around the summit. He was able to get within 450 meters (1476 ft) once again but conditions wouldn't allow him to go any higher. He is now back in BC and intends to wrap up the expedition tomorrow. Meanwhile, 74-year old Carlos Soria  climbed as high as C3 on his summit bid before the weather forced him to retreat as well. He has gone back down the mountain to BC to re-evaluate his choices. Fresh snow and high winds made for poor visibility high on the mountain, which brought an end to summit bids. At least for now.

On Lhotse, the Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli continue to have their struggles. The two men went back up to Camp 1 a few days ago and found it in disarray due to recent storms. They rebuilt their campsite and dug out their tent, which was buried in snow both inside and out. They then spent a terrible night there in which Ed was sick once again and Federico's sleeping bag had a broken zipper, which made for a long, cold evening in the tent. They had intended to go up to Camp 2, but with their situation being less than ideal, they moved back down to BC instead. They hope to fix the sleeping bag and we're told that Ed's illness has more to do with food poisoning than altitude, so they'll push back up the mountain in another day or two. Meanwhile, the Korean team that has joined them in BC has built a path through the Khumbu Icefall and is preparing for their first acclimatization rotation soon as well.

Finally, there continues to be no updates from Ueli Steck and Don Bowie on their attempt to climb Annapurna. They checked in a few days back saying they had gone up the mountain to as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) but were back in BC at the time. For now, we wait to hear about their plans. Similarly, Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb have yet to check in from Lunag Ri. Presumably they are still en route to the mountain and will begin sharing dispatches once they get settled. At 6895 meters (22,621 ft), that peak is the tallest unclimbed mountain in all of Nepal. It should be interesting to follow both of these expeditions moving forward.

That's all for now. More news from the Himalaya when there is something to share.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Second Round of Summit Bids Underway

After successful summits across the Himalaya last week a brief period of bad weather fell across much of the region. But this week things are clearing up and a new weather window is seems to be opening. These improved conditions are allowing a second round of summit pushes as climbers on various mountains make their move to top out. Over the next few days we should see more summits as the fall climbing season begins to heat up once again.

One of the most active mountains during last week's round of summit bids was Manaslu, where it is estimated that approximately 60 climbers topped out. Amongst them was Alan Arnette who posted a brief account of his summit bid on his blog. Alan calls the summit of Manaslu the scariest spot he has ever been in his climbing career, which includes Everest, thanks in no small part to its narrow approach ridge which had a drop of over 3000 feet (914 meters) on either side. As always, Alan provides good insights into climbing on the big peaks, but this dispatch was a bit short due to technical issues. He promises a longer account of the climb once he has returned home.

The work isn't wrapped up on Manaslu just yet however as more teams are making their summit bids this week. A number of international climbers, including teams from Romania, Spain and Italy, amongst others, are headed to Camp 3 today and should be looking to top out on Thursday of this week provided the weather remains cooperative. As the 8th highest peak in the world, Manaslu provides plenty of opportunities for sharpening mountaineering skills for preparation for a higher peak, such as Everest, in the spring.


On Cho Oyu more teams have begun their push as well. The Amical Alpin squad has moved up to Camp 3 where they are joined by a group led by Adventure Peaks. If all goes according to plan, both teams should make their final summit bids tomorrow.

Similarly a second round of summit attempts are underway on Shishapangma as well. 74-year old Carlos Soria is in Camp 3 today and should make his push to the top tomorrow or the next day. Rich Emerson of the Ski Shishapangma expedition has launched his second summit bid on the mountain as well and hopes to top out tomorrow or Thursday. If conditions are right he'll also make a ski descent too.

Over on Lhotse things are starting to develop. The Korean team that joined Italians Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli on that mountain have begun building a makeshift route through the Khumbu Icefall, which should makes things easier and safer on that section of the climb. That team has also established Camp 1 and has spent some time their acclimatizing. For their part, the Italians have returned from Gorak Shep and are back up the mountain as well. They should be in Camp 2 today as they work towards getting their bodies ready for their own summit push to come. If they are successful, they also hope to ski back down the mountain.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie have checked in from Annapurna. In a very brief message Ueli says that he went as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) last Friday but weather conditions shifted and heavy snow began to fall. As of this dispatch he and Don were back in ABC and waiting for conditions to approve. Hopefully we'll get more news soon.

That's all for today. Hopefully we'll have more news on summits tomorrow.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summits On Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma!

It was a very productive day in the Himalaya yesterday as the projected weather window remained open long enough for teams to top out on several mountains. That window is expected to slam shut today with high winds and snowstorms expected across the region. But the climbers who arrived early in the season, worked hard to complete the acclimatization process and patiently waited for their opportunity were rewarded with successful summit bids. 

We'll start on Manaslu where the majority of the action took place yesterday. The Altitude Junkies confirmed that their team started to top out at about 8:30 AM local time yesterday morning. First to the top were Pasang Nima Sherpa and team leader Phil Crampton, but not far behind was the rest of the crew that included Alan Arnette, whom I'm sure will pass along a detailed account of the summit push in the next day or two As they approached the top, the final 100 meters of rope still needed to be fixed and Pasang Nima joined with the Sherpas from the Himex squad to complete that work. Russell Brice's team had a good day on the mountain too, putting 13 of their clients on top and a total of 29 climbers overall. Reportedly it was a good day on the summit with warm temperatures and calm winds. Both teams report that everyone has now descended safely and after spending the night in Camp 1 they should arrive back in BC today. 

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that there have been summits on Cho Oyu as well. Four climbers topped out there at around 12:40 PM yesterday afternoon. That group included American climber Adrian Ballinger, Russian Sergey Baranov, Passang Bhote Sherpa and Namygal Sherpa. The two westerners than proceeded to make a ski descent and were back in Camp 2 early in the afternoon. ExWeb also indicates that there are a number of other teams poised to make summit bids today before the change in weather arrives. 

Apparently there has also been a successful summit on Shishapangma as well. Details are still a bit light but it is being reported that Hungarian climber Lestak Erzsebet reached the summit of that mountain yesterday and then safely returned to ABC. If we get more details on the climb I'll be sure to share them.

While we're on the subject of Shishapangma, 74-year old Carlos Soria is still in Base Camp there and keeping a close eye on the weather. The hope is that once the current weather system passes a new window will open giving the teams enough time to make their push. That could come as early as next week, but for now everyone sits and waits. 

Finally, there hasn't been any updates from Ueli Steck or Don Bowie in about a week but presumably they have reached Annupurna Base Camp now and are setting up shop for the climb ahead. These two talented and very experienced mountaineers will likely go to work very quickly and I wouldn't be surprised to hear them start their acclimatization rotations immediately, weather permitting. Hopefully once they are settled in we'll start to get regular updates on their progress. 

I want to offer a big congratulations to all the climbers who were able to summit over the past couple of days. Job well done all around and I'm glad to hear that it seems everyone got up and down safely. 

More updates to come in the days ahead. Things will likely quiet down now for a few days while the weather moves in and out of the Himalaya. After that, there will be a host of climbers ready to make their move. 

Himalaya Fall 2013: No Summits on Shisha, Waiting For News Elsewhere

The waiting game continues in the Himalaya where we know that summit pushes are underway amidst good weather. But the forecast calls for a change starting tomorrow, with snow and high winds predicted. That means that teams are on the move today with news of successful summits to come shortly.

One team that we've been keeping a close eye on this week is the Ski Shishapangma squad. They made an attempt on the summit on Monday with the hopes of completing a ski descent of that mountain. Since then we hadn't heard any word on their progress, but a dispatch this morning tells us that Rich Emerson and Dave Etherington turned back 450 meters (1476 ft) below the summit. They are safely back in Base Camp now and Dave says that his climb is over. Rich, on the other hand, seems to be weighing his options and may consider giving it another go once he has had the chance to rest and recover his strength.

If the weather forecast holds as many as 60 climbers could top out on Manaslu today including groups from both the Altitude Junkies and Himex. Our friend Alan Arnette is a part of that group as well and I expected we'll get an excellent account of the climb once he he safely back in BC.

The other peak that should see plenty of action today is Cho Oyu where several teams should be closing in on the summit as well. The IMG squad isn't among them however as their latest dispatch indicates that they have now completed their second acclimatization rotation to Camp 2 and have descended to Base Camp as well. With the change in weather coming tomorrow they'll take the time to rest and eat lots of good food as they wait for a weather window to open to start their eventual summit bids. That looks like it won't happen until sometime next week at the earliest.


The Italian team on Lhotse has moved down the Khumbu Valley to Gorak Shep where they are taking a break as well. The sent a length dispatch today discussing the trash situation on Everest and Lhotse, where overcrowding have turned the mountain into a bit of a junk heap. Conditions in BC have improved considerably since the Nepalese government started imposing fines, but further up the mountain there is still plenty of trash to be cleaned up. The boys have a proposal on how to solve the issue, which would in a sense do away with commercial climbing on Everest altogether and put severe restrictions on who climbs the mountain. There ideas would never fly as they would be economically disastrous for Nepal, but it certainly makes for an interesting read and discussion.

That's all the news I have from the Himalaya today. Mostly we sit and wait for confirmation of successful summits today. With a shift in the weather coming, things will quiet down there heading into the weekend, but the season is far from over and there are still plenty of interesting developments to come I'm sure.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Weather Window Opens Across The Himalaya, Summits In Sight

As noted yesterday, the first real summit push of the fall Himalayan climbing season is now underway and we wait anxiously for word on the whereabouts of the numerous teams that are currently on the move. The weather forecast across the region seems favorable, at least for a few more days, and the climbers are now getting themselves into position to make a push to the top of their respective mountains within the next day or two. After that, it seems the window will close once again and those who aren't able to take advantage of it will wait for their turn in the days ahead. For now though, there is quite a bit of activity taking place.

Yesterday I noted that Rich Emerson and Dave Etherington of the Ski Shishapangma expedition were planning on making their summit bid. The weather was reportedly quite good and it was thought that they would go to the top, then attempt a ski descent. There has been no update on their progress since then however so it is unclear weather or not they did indeed summit and ski or if they ended up descending for some reason. We'll have to wait and watch their Facebook page for updates on their progress.

On Manaslu the summit push is in full swing with most expecting to top out tomorrow. As reported yesterday, the Altitude Junkies squad is amongst them with Alan Arnette part of that team. It seems that the Himex climbers have also joined the summit party and their team is on the way up as well. The forecast says that there should be little wind on Manaslu tomorrow, which should give the teams perfect conditions to top out. After that, rain and snow are expected on the mountain with the potential for some heavy powder to fall at higher altitudes. At the moment, as many as 60 climbers are in Camp 4 and waiting to launch their final push.


According to ExWeb, the summit bids have begun on Cho Oyu as well with the first climbers possibly topping out as early as tomorrow as well. The forecast there is the same as elsewhere: good conditions through Wednesday with heavy snow moving in afterwards. Considering that no one has been above Camp 2 yet on the mountain, it is unclear what conditions will be like on the way to the summit, but after tomorrow they are expected to get a whole lot more challenging. Amongst those hoping to top out are American mountain guide Adrian Ballinger and Russian climber Sergei Baranov.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli are back in Base Camp on Lhotse where they have enjoyed a warm shower and some much needed rest. They intend to descend to Gorak Shep for a bit of a break and to get an Internet connection to post some more detailed updates. The boys are no longer alone in BC however as a Korean team has arrived in the past day or two and has begun to set up shop. It is unclear at this point whether or not the Koreans will be attempting Lhotse as well or if they are there to make a rare attempt on Everest in the fall. We'll just have to wait to see what exactly their objectives are.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie should now be settled into Base Camp on Annapurna and will most likely be scouting the route that they'll take to the summit. There have been no updates yet from the dynamic duo but it is their hope that they'll be able to find success on one of the world's toughest mountains where both have had their struggles in the past. Even if they don't manage to climb Annapurna this fall however, it is good to see Ueli back in the Himalaya following the unfortunate events of this past spring.

That's all for now. Hopefully my next update will contain good news of successful summits.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summit Bids Underway!

It was a busy weekend in the Himalaya where most of the teams continued their acclimatization rotations in an effort to prepare for the challenges ahead. While those squads dutifully marched up and down the mountain in an effort to get their bodies accustomed to the thinner air, other teams launched their summit bids at long last. If the weather stays calm and things go according to plan, we could see our first successful summits of the season later today.

One of the teams that is now in position to top out is the Ski Shishapangma squad. They started their summit push last Friday and should top out today, hopefully putting both Dave Etherington and Rich Emerson on the summit. The weather report indicates clear skies and tranquil conditions on the mountain, so provided any unforeseen changes, it seems summit day will be a good one. As the name of the expedition implies however, climbing the mountain is only part of the plan. Dave and Rich also intend to ski back down Shisha, which is the shortest of the 8000-meter peaks at 8013 meters (26,289 ft). Good luck to the team as they make this final push and ski descent.

Also on Shishapangma, 74-year old Carlos Soria is biding his time and waiting for his opportunity to summit. With his acclimatization rotations done, he is now resting in Base Camp, watching the weather and waiting for the right time to move. He is estimating that he'll get on the move around the middle of the week with a possible summit on Sept. 28, which would be Saturday. A savvy veteran of the Himalaya, Soria also says that his team is patient and they will wait for the right opportunity to being their bid for the summit.

The Altitude Junkies have also launched their summit bid on Manaslu setting out on Saturday for their final push. The team, which includes our friend Alan Arnette, spent the night in Camp 2 last night and will proceed to Camp 3 today. Tomorrow they'll move up to C4 and be in position for a potential summit bid on Wednesday of this week. The weather window looks promising at the moment and it seems that the route to the top is in good shape. Over the weekend the Sherpas had to replace three ladders that went missing in avalanche, but all is good now. Hopefully we'll hear news of their success in the middle of the week.


On Cho Oyu the IMG team has moved up to Camp 2 where they spent the night last night as part of their normal acclimatization process. The climbers have now been in Tibet for three weeks and their bodies should begin responding positively to the higher altitudes. The weather is reported good on the mountain and everyone is expected to descend back to Base Camp today for a couple days rest before proceeding back up.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli had a tough climb up to Camp 1 on Lhotse over the weekend. As much as 40 cm (15.8 inches) of fresh snow had fallen and it made what should typically be a relatively easy climb into a very tough slog. As they moved higher, the snow started falling again and soon the found themselves in a blizzard that ended up dropping as much as 70-80 cm (27-31 inches) of new powder. With conditions deteriorating rapidly, they were forced to continue up to C1 rather than turn back. They spent an cold, wet and generally uncomfortable night at that spot, waking up the next day to find that the skies had cleared and conditions had improved dramatically. This gave them the opportunity to return to BC for some much needed rest. While on the hike up to Camp 1, Edmond displayed some signs of altitude sickness which could be troubling. Hopefully the rest in Base Camp will help alleviate the issue and he can continue with the expedition as planned.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie were expected to reach Annapurna Base Camp yesterday, which means they have probably already gone to work today. The duo planned on scouting various routes to the top once they arrived in BC. It is there belief that Annapurna, which is amongst the most dangerous mountains in the world, will be more stable in the fall with colder conditions and less snow. Both men have tried this mountain in the past and the summit has eluded them thus far. Hopefully this season will be a little different.

Stay tuned for more updates as they come in.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Big Changes On Manaslu, Avalanche On Cho Oyu

The climbers in the Himalaya this fall have really started to pick up momentum and this week has certainly been a busy one. Most have started their first acclimatization rounds and things seem to be proceeding according to plan. But this being the Himalaya, things are not always as they seem and there have certainly been some difficult struggles even in the early going.

We'll start on Manaslu where Alan Arnette has weighed in following his first acclimatization rotation up to Camp 2. Alan says that the mountain is very different this year and that the lack of snowfall is having a dramatic effect on the route. He reports that there are numerous crevasses to negotiate and that the movement of the shifting glacier has forced the Sherpas to find new ways to navigate up the mountain. Apparently even the Sherpas who have been climbing on Manaslu for many years are surprised at how it looks this season. The ascent from Base Camp to C1 and 2 has always been on the technical side, but this year it is even more challenging. As always, Alan's dispatches from his expeditions are insightful, well written and share a wealth of information. You can read his latest in its entirety by clicking here.

Not far from where Alan is camped in Manaslu BC, the Himex team has also set up shop for the season. Their Sherpa teams have just returned from carrying gear up to Camps 1 and 2 and will now take a day or two off before they proceed higher. The climbing team will sit for another day as well and then head up for their first acclimatization rotation this weekend. Most will spend the night at C2 as they begin to get their bodies accustomed to the altitude. The team reports that the weather is starting to take a turn however with more freezing rain in the forecast. They'll keep an eye on the sky of course, but for now it just seems to be conditions uncomfortable rather than putting anyone in real danger.
Over on Cho Oyu the climbers are going through their early rotations as well with a number of teams just returning to BC after their first trip up the mountain. The IMG squad is reportedly gearing up for their climb to Camp 2, which may take place as early as this weekend. There was a scary moment on the mountain a couple of days ago when an avalanche hit four Sherpas that were busy fixing ropes up to C2. One of those climbers was seriously injured and had to be evacuated but thankfully no one was killed during the incident. A day later the rope fixing to C2 was complete and the teams now seem confident enough in the conditions to proceed up.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli are making some slow progress on Lhotse. The duo are back in Base Camp today and were planning on descending down the Khumbu Valley for a little rest in Gorak Shep. They have just made their first foray up to Camp 1, which involved a tricky climb through the Khumub Icefall, which is made all the more difficult this time of year since the famed Ice Doctors aren't there to maintain the route. Apparently the two support Sherpas who are accompanying them on this trip are not very experienced at passing through the Icefall without the aid of ladders and ropes. The two Sherpas, both of whom have Everest summits on their resumes, expressed concerns about the dangers of that section of the mountain. As a result, the Italians have requested two other porters with more experience to come join them. While they are climbing in mostly independently, they are using Sherpa support to shuttle gear up to Camp 1 and 2. It'll take a few days before their new support team will arrive in BC, so for now they'll rest and prepare for the challenges ahead. The plan is to summit and ski the mountain, which makes this one of the most ambitious expeditions taking place this fall.

The team of Rich Emerson, Dave Etherington and Steve Wilson are also hoping to make a ski descent of Shishapangma this fall. They've already completed their final acclimatization rotation and launched their summit bid yesterday with Rich and Dave expected to reach Camp 1 today and then proceed to C2 tomorrow. If all goes as expected, they could be on top early next week and skiing back down shortly there after. It has begun to snow on the mountain, which may be good for the descent, but we'll have to wait to see if the weather impacts their final push to the summit.

Meanwhile, 74-year old Carlos Soria has arrived in Base Camp on Shishapangma and will spend the next few days resting before he starts his acclimatization. Carlos is an amazing man as he continues to take on big Himalayan peaks well into his 70's and never seems to take much of a break. He is a staple in the mountains and seems to be constantly on an expedition of some kind or another. I hope that when I reach his age I'm still as active and strong.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie are already in and out of Kathmandu. The duo flew to Pokhara yesterday and began the trek to Annapurna Base Camp today. They should arrive on the mountain early next week and start their climb then.

More updates soon.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Acclimatizing For The Challenges Ahead

The Fall 2013 climbing season in the Himalaya is definitely in full swing now with most of the teams now fully ensconced in their Base Camps. With good weather in place across the region, the climbers have begun taking advantage of the opportunity and have started their first real acclimatization rounds. If the forecast remains good we could see some early summits this year. But for now, most are content to work hard and take things one day at a time.

One of the more ambitious projects this fall will take place on Lhotse, where Italian climbers Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli hope to summit and make a ski descent of the mountain. The two men have been acclimatizing in the Khumbu Valley over the past week or so and are now settled in at Everest Base Camp, which is of course the shared launching pad for Lhotse as well. Yesterday they went up Kala Pattar, a nearby peak that provides excellent views of Everest and they report that their conditioning is good and everything is proceeding as they had hoped. They also completed their Puja ceremony, which will now allow them proceed up the mountain. They hope to make their way through the Khumbu Icefall today and climb to Camp 1 as part of their first acclimatization rotation.

Over on Manaslu things are proceeding well. The Altitude Junkies have finished their first big rotation and are now back in BC after spending a night at Camp 1 and two more at Camp 2. They'll take a few days off to recover now before heading higher and the Sherpas hope to establish Camp 4 within the next few days. The team is in good spirits after their first real workout and the good weather is helping to make things a bit easier at the moment.

Also on Manaslu is the Himex team, whose Sherpas have been doing the bulk of the work fixing the ropes, with a little help from the Altitude Junkies as well. The group made it's first rotation a few days back going up to Camp 1 for the first time. It was a four hour journey from BC up to that point but everyone climbed strong and had very few issues. They're now back in BC as well and preparing for their first push to Camp 2 where they'll spend a few nights at altitude to get their bodies accustomed to the thinner air.

Polish climber and skier Andrzej Bargiel has his sites set on Shishapangma this fall. He hopes to make a speed attempt on that mountain and then ski back down. It isn't clear if he is in Tibet just yet, but his plans were to begin climbing in late September and hopefully complete the expedition in October. Hopefully we'll get more updates as he proceeds.

Also making his way to Shishapangma is 73-year old Spanish climber Carlos Soria. He isn't quite into Base Camp just yet, but should be there within the next few days. The video at the bottom of this report gives an update from the trek and while it is in Spanish, you'll still get a good idea of the logistics involved in getting to the mountain. There is also a wild scene with a yak who simply does not want to carry a heavy load further up the valley. Scary stuff!

Things are starting to heat up on Cho Oyu as the teams begin their first rotations there as well. The IMG squad reportedly went to Camp 1 and spent the night while the Sherpas having been busy fixing lines and shuttling gear. They should have Camp 2 well established today and will continue up the mountain after a brief respite back in Base Camp.

That's all for now. Expect more updates soon as the teams in the Himalaya really start to progress.

Himalaya 2013: Kangchenjunga Claims Five Lives

Now that the dust is settling on Kangchenjunga, more information is filtering out about what happened there over the past few days. While there is news of multiple successful summits, it seems that the mountain has also claimed the lives of five people, making it one of the most deadly seasons in recent memory.

Yesterday I reported that Hungarian climbers Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss had spent the night without tents or sleeping bags at 8300 meters (27,230 ft) following a successful summit bid. The two men had been in touch with the support team and were letting them know that they were on the move, although it was slow going. At the time, they were attempting to reach Camp 4 to rest and collect supplies, but after that they lost contact and haven't been seen or heard from since. What happened to them remains unknown, but considering Kangchenjunga is one of the deadliest mountains in the world, it seems likely that they perished while trying to descend.

Unfortunately, Eross and Kiss weren't the only casualties on the mountain. An avalanche swept Korean climber Park Nam Su, as well as Phurba and Vivas Sherpa from the mountain. This incident apparently occurred higher up the slopes as another avalanche blew through Camp 2, causing damage there but not killing anyone. Like Annapurna, Kangchenjunga is notorious for its powerful and unpredictable avalanches.

ExWeb is reporting that 11 people reached the summit of Kangchen on Monday, May 20. In addition to Eross and Kiss, Iranian climber Raza Shahlai and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa topped out. There were two Korean climbers not far behind them. Catalonian climber Oscar Cadiach and Italian Mario Vielmo also topped out, as did Korean alpinist Kim Hong-bin. These successes have to be bittersweet at this point however, considering the number of climbers who turned back, as well as those who have lost their lives in the pursuit of the summit.
On Dhaulagiri Polish climber Pawel Michalski has returned to Camp 3 after making a final summit push. His website doesn't give much information but it does say that he reached 8100 meters (26,574 ft). If that is true, that means he came up just 67 meters (220 ft) short of the summit. It is always difficult to turn back when your objective is so close, but with weather conditions deteriorating rapidly, those final 67 meters could have been the difference between survival and struggling to get down alive. It appears that his expedition is over and Pawel will return to BC and then head home.

The outlook is better on Makalu, where Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia have now reached Camp 4. As of their last dispatch, the duo were resting and preparing for their summit push. If all goes according to plan, they should be on their way to the top today. The wether is reportedly good, although winds are still of concern.

Finally, the word from Cho Oyu is that high winds kept teams in place earlier in the week but they should be on the move again now. A weather window was expected to open starting yesterday, which means teams could be on a summit push now. We'll have to wait for confirmation on success or failure from that mountain soon.

More updates to come as we get news.

Himalaya 2013: Kenton Cool Completes Hat Trick!

Just as the Everest climbers continue to move up and down the mountain, other teams across the Himalaya are doing the same on various other mountains. Most are looking to top out in the next few days, but there are still some stories to tell today, starting with the epic effort that British climber Kenton Cool has just wrapped up.

As I reported yesterday, Kenton was in the middle of an absolutely massive challenge in the Himalaya. At that time he had already successfully summited both Nuptse (7861 m/25,791 ft) and Everest (8848 m/29,029 ft), claiming his 11th career summit of the world's highest mountain. He was also in the middle of a summit push to the top of Lhotse, the 8516 meter (27,940 ft) sister of Everest. No one had ever completed a back-to-back-to-back climb of all three peaks before, but I'm happy to report that Kenton has indeed done just that. His home team announced his successful Lhotse summit overnight and he has since returned to Base Camp where he is reportedly "totally shattered." The Brit is getting some much deserved rest now, but his team promises to share more information and photos on his Facebook page soon.

I want to extend a hearty congratulations to Kenton on a job well done. That series of three peaks is one impressive climb and I can't imagine how completely knackered he feels right about now. It is difficult to overstate just what kind of an effort it took to pull this off. One of the boldest expeditions in the Himalaya in quite some time.

Sadly, the news from Lhotse isn't all good today. Yesterday I also indicated that there was a climber that was struggling at altitude and that a rescue attempt was underway. That climber was Lee Hsiao-shih from Taiwan. Details remain a bit thin, but it seems he took ill on the mountain and perished in Camp 4. My condolences to his friends and family.

Finally, ExWeb is reporting that Cho Oyu was successfully summited on May 13, despite previously posting that no one had been able to climb above C3 yet. It appears that husband and wife climbing team Uko and Anu Noulik of Estonia quietly completed their climb last week, topping out at 9:30 AM local time. Bad weather had made it impossible for them to acclimatize above Camp 3 prior to their summit push, but they were able to weight out the high winds and summit last Monday. Congratulations o Uko and Anu on a job well done.

More news from the Himalaya in the next few days as summits are expected across the region.

Himalaya 2013: Kenton Cool Goes For Triple Header, Climbers Make Summit Bids

While everyone was obviously focused on Everest this past weekend as the big push truly got underway, there was plenty of action elsewhere in the Himalaya as well. Numerous teams are now on the move and have set their sights reaching their respective summits. The good weather is holding across the region, giving everyone an opportunity to realize their goals at last.

One man who came to the Himalaya with some serious goals this season is Kenton Cool. With ten previous Everest summits under his belt, Kenton wanted to do something a little different this year and over the weekend he launched an unprecedented attempt at a Himalayan triple header. On Friday, Kenton successfully topped out on Nuptse, a 7861 meter (25,791 ft) mountain that sits in the shadow of Everest on the South Side. He followed that up on Saturday with his 11th summit of Everest, which gave him two of the three summits that he is pursuing. Currently he is on his summit push for Lhotse, the 8516 meter (27,940 ft) neighbor to Everest. There has been no update yet as to whether or not he reached the top of that mountain, but hopefully news will come later today. He may also be caught up in the drama that I mentioned earlier, in which a climber on Lhotse is being assisted down by a group of Sherpas. Lets keep our fingers crossed that Kenton and the unnamed climber are doing well.

Speaking of Lhotse. Since the weather was good on Everest this weekend it was also exceptional on Lhotse as well. This allowed a number of commercial teams to top out, including members of Himex, IMG and Adventure Consultants, amongst others. While not nearly as crowded as the Big Hill, Lhotse saw its fair share of traffic the past few days as well.

Polish climber Pawel Michalski has moved up to Camp 2 today on his summit push on Dhaulagiri. He reports tough going so far but expects the weather to improve over the next few days. He's on schedule to top out on Wednesday, provided conditions hold steady or continue to get better.

On Makalu, Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia are on the move today heading up to C2 on that mountain as well. They've accelerated their summit plans do to improving weather and are now looking to top out Wednesday too. No word from Don Bowie on whether or not he'll take advantage of the shift in conditions and begin his summit push too.

Things aren't going well on Kangchenjunga for Carlos Soria. His home team indicated that Soria's team ran out of rope on the way to the summit and he was unable to complete his climb. There is some talk of cooperation with another team on the mountain to finish getting the ropes into place, but after climbing as high as 8300 meters (27,230 ft), the 72-year old Soria has now reportedly returned to Camp 4 where he is resting. Whether or not he'll be able to take another crack at the summit remains to be seen.

Also in Camp 4 on that mountain is the Italian team that includes Annalisa Fioretti. It has been slow going on the summit push and the group, which is climbing without supplemental oxygen, may be currently resting at 7500 meters (24,606 ft). If they can regain some strength, their next push could take them to the top, provided their ropes are in place allowing everyone to go up. The weather has been changing rapidly, so they're keeping an eye on that situation too.

Raul Corominas and Peter Herms were attempting a summit of Manaslu but high winds and heavy snowfall has forced them back down the mountain. They are now in Camp 3 where they are resting and waiting for another opportunity. If things improve, and they have the strength, they plan to head up to C4 tomorrow and hopefully summit on Wednesday. This is their second thwarted summit attempt and the men are getting physically and mentally exhausted. They may not have the stamina to go one more time.

Finally, there is a summit push underway on Cho Oyu by an unknown team as well. According to ExWeb, the squad set out for Base Camp on Saturday with the hopes of topping out tomorrow. It has been an incredibly tough year on the mountain which saw four teams arrive this spring and three of them depart early. This final unit has been hit hard with illness and has reduced numbers, but they are pressing ahead none the less. Due to the incredibly bad conditions on Cho Oyu this spring, no team has yet to go above C3. Hopefully the weather will improve to give this last team a shot at the top.

More updates coming soon.

Himalaya Fall 2012 Update: Arrivals

Last week I mentioned that we were on the verge of the start of the 2012 fall climbing season in the Himalaya and linked to a couple of expeditions that were ready to get underway. Since then more climbers have been arriving in Kathmandu and have set out for their respective Base Camps. It seems it is shaping up to be a relatively busy season, by fall standards, in the mountains.

One peak that won't be busy this autumn is Cho Oyu. The Adventure Consultants had planned to lead a team to the 8201 meter (26,906 ft) mountain but China has extended their closure of the border, forcing climbers to go elsewhere. As a result, the AC squad is now headed to Manaslu (8156m/26,759 ft). That expedition got started on Sunday with the group assembling in Kathmandu and they'll first take a helicopter to the village of Sama Gaon where they'll make some acclimatization hikes before proceeding to Base Camp.

Also on her way to Manaslu is Billi Bierling who is making the trek on foot. That journey started last week but a dispatch over the weekend says that they expect to reach BC tomorrow. The weather reportedly remains very hot at this point and Billi says that there are few trekkers on the trail, making for a quiet hike to the mountain. The temperatures should begin to drop in the days ahead, but for now it seems the team will be very working in hot conditions.

Manaslu will be a busy place this fall as the Mountain Professionals team, IMG squad and others are also en route to Base Camp this week.

Other climbers that are currently planning fall Himalaya expeditions include Sophie Denis who, according to ExWeb, has set her sights on the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) Shisha Pangma. Mexican climbers Yuri Contreras and Laura González are taking aim at Makalu (8481m/27,825 ft) and 73 year old Carlos Soria will be taking on Kangchenjunga (8586m/28,169 ft).

More updates as we have them. For now, most of the teams are still in transition, but the actual climbs should start as early as the weekend.

Himalaya 2012: Summits On Manaslu, Ueli Ready On Everest

A new week brings new promise to the Himalaya, where the teams on Everest continue to wait while elsewhere climbers are topping out on various peaks. The week ahead should be a busy one, as it looks like the projected weather window will open on schedule, which should pave the way for another round of summit bids.

Yesterday was summit day on Manaslu, and according to the latest dispatch from the Adventure Consultants, several climbers topped out, including two of their own. The mountain has been battered with snow this spring, which has made it difficult on everyone, but the forecast called for a weather window and it opened up as expected. Winds were a bit high but manageable and everything came together at just the right time for those who were fortunate enough to make it to the top. The true summit of Manaslu is a very small sliver of rock, and most who reach it have it to themselves for a brief moment. That was the case here, as the climbers didn't linger long before heading down. They are now safely back in BC and are preparing to depart today.

No word yet on whether or not Allie Pepper was amongst the successful summiteers. She was hoping to climb Manaslu before setting out for Lhotse, but she hasn't posted an update in some time. The dispatch from the AC doesn't mention her either, so it is possible that she has left for her second mountain considering weather conditions haven't been good and time is starting to run short.

Elsewhere, ExWeb is reporting that the teams on Annapurna are folding up shop and heading home after another long and tough season on that peak. Amongst them is Don Bowie, who won't be joining Ueli Steck on Everest now. ExWeb is also saying that a Spanish team is in the middle of a summit push on Shisha Pangma right now, but there is little movement on Cho Oyu or Dhaulagiri, although teams on that mountain are preparing for summit bids this week.

Speaking of Ueli Steck, he reports in that his acclimatization on Everest is officially over after spending a the night at 8000 meters (26,246 ft). Ueli says that he and his Sherpa guide stashed their gear at that point and that there were few people on Everest that had been up that high as of yet. A tent city will form there in a few days and everyone who has been patiently waiting will finally get their crack at the summit. Ueli is one of them, although it remains to be seen if he'll make a speed attempt.

On both sides of Everest everyone continues to wait. In the North, the Sherpas have built Camp 3 and the teams are waiting for the ropes to be fixed, while on the South Camp 4 is being stocked in anticipation of the winds dying down at last and access being granted to the summit. Everyone seems optimistic that that will happen late this week, but for now we all wait.