2014 Piolets d'Or Winners Announced

This past weekend, the 2014 winners for the Piolets d'Or were announced. Often referred to as the "Oscars of Mountaineering" the awards are given out annually to the climbers that pull off the most inspiring and pioneering climbs from the previous year. A jury of accomplished mountaineers judge the nominees based on a number of criteria, not the least of which is respect for the sport and the ability to push it in new directions. The award itself is appropriately enough, a golden ice axe.

There were three winners this year including Canadians Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted for their impressive first ascent of K6 West, a 7040 meter (23,097 ft) peak located in the Karakoram. The duo went up a new route along the Northwest Face that was both highly technical and physically demanding. The third award went to Swiss climber Ueli Steck, for his solo summit of Annapurna, in which he went from Advanced Base Camp to the top, and back, in a mere 28 hours. That expedition was amongst the most audacious that the mountaineering community has seen in recent years, and even the amazing Steck admitted that it pushed him to his vary limits.

Ueli's win was not without some controversy. As I reported last week, there are some who feel that he hasn't provided sufficient proof of an actual summit, since there are no photos (he lost his camera in an avalanche on the ascent), nor GPS data to back up his claims. Ueli's teammates say they did see him less than 200 meters below the summit however, and even the Sherpas on the expedition back up his claims. The jury for the Piolets d'Or ignored that controversy however, and wisely awarded Steck the prize.

Congratulations to the winners. All three men are very deserving of this honor.

Controversy Over Ueli Steck's Annapurna Solo Summit?

One of the biggest and boldest climbs of 2013 was Ueli Steck's amazing solo ascent of Annapurna, the 8091 meter (26,545 ft) Himalayan peak that is considered to be amongst the toughest climbs in the world. Ueli had set out to climb the mountain with Don Bowie last fall, but when Bowie fell sick, the Swiss climber was left to go it alone. Showing off the skill, strength, and speed that have made him famous, Ueli was able to launch his summit bid from Advanced Base Camp, then push on to the summit, and back, in just 28 hours. It was certainly quite the display of mountaineering prowess, that has now earned him a nomination for the prestigious Piolets d'Or, the awards for the best climbs from the previous year. But now, a bit of controversy has sprung up surrounding his nomination which is casting some doubt on the veracity of Steck's claims.

The crux of the argument is that Ueli has no proof of his summit of Annapurna. He has said all along that he was caught in a small avalanche on the way to the summit, and lost one of his gloves and his camera in the process. As a result, there are no summit photos to back up his claims. He also says that his altimeter broke during the ascent and that he didn't use a GPS to track his progress. All of this means that there is no solid evidence to substantiate his claims of having gone to the top, which in turn has now led to some to say he should not have been nominated for the Piolet d'Or at all.

In Ueli's defense, his teammates on that expedition, including two Sherpas who were support in his efforts, say that they saw Ueli just 200 meters below the summit that evening, with his headlamp moving steadily upwards. They fully believe he accomplished what he said he did, and don't question his accomplishment at all. Miss Elizabeth Hawley was also satisfied with his summit report, as were French climbers Stéphane Benoist and Yannick Graziani, who made a similar ascent a couple of weeks after Steck.


For his part, Ueli says that he doesn't particularly care what others think, he climbs for himself and the joy of the sport. He is quoted as saying recently “What happened is partly my fault. I am not someone who likes to brag because climbing brings nothing to humanity," indicating that while he doesn't have any evidence to support his claims, he also doesn't have any incentive to lie about either. Want further proof? An article questioning his summit has been posted on his own official website.

I am not surprised that this controversy has reared its head at this time. I predicted last fall that there could be some backlash against Ueli over the lack of summit photos, and that prediction has proven to be true. Steck fully acknowledges the lack of evidence, and doesn't seem to be especially bothered by those that are questioning him. Personally, I'm of a mind to believe what he says, as I don't see what he has to gain by making a false summit claim. He is already one of the best known climbers on the planet, and is past exploits have been well documented or witnessed by other climbers. The fact that Ueli's teammates believe that he reached the summit of Annapurna says a lot as well.

Controversy has long been a part of mountaineering, and it remains so even in the 21st century. Whether or not Steck deserves to win the Pilots d'Or isn't up to me to say, but I do think he has at least earned the benefit of the doubt in regards to his accomplishments.

Meanwhile, Ueli isn't letting these questions slow him down. This past weekend he climbed three classic routes in the Alps in a single massive push. He and Michi Wohlleben topped out on "Cassin" at the Cima West, "Comici" at the Grande Cime and "Innerkofler" in succession, and during the winter no less. The man known as the "Swiss Machine" continues to impress.

Video: Annapurna's South Face With Ueli Steck

The most daring and impressive climb of last year, at least in my mind, was Ueli Steck's solo summit of Annapurna. The video below comes our way thanks to Mountain Hardwear and it is a two minute recap of that climb, plus a look back on the other defining moment of 2013 for Ueli – the conflict on Everest. It was a turbulent year to say the least, filled with difficult challenges and incredible triumphs.

Ueli Steck | South Face of Annapurna from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Video: Ueli Steck Talks Solo Annapurna Summit

For my money, Ueli Steck's solo summit of Annapurna earlier this fall is the most audacious climb of the year. The 28-hour round trip journey could probably only be completed by a handful of mountaineers at best. In the video below, Ueli is interviewed by Hervé Barmasse about the climb, where his motivations come from , how he prepares for such an expedition and more. As always, "the Swiss Machine" is as interesting and engaging as ever.

Video: Ueli Steck Talks Annapurna (and Everest!) With EpicTV (Part 3)

The third part of Ueli Steck's interview with EpicTV was posted earlier this week, bringing an end to this very interesting and engaging series. In this latest episode he touches on Annapurna a bit but it is more focused on Everest and the experience he had there this past spring when his team had a violent clash with Sherpas. As always, it is interesting to get Ueli's take on the mountaineering world and he offers good insights once again. If you missed the firs two parts of the interview you can watch them here and here.

Reinhold Messner On The State Of Mountaineering Today

Reinhold Messner is arguably the greatest mountaineer of all time. His resume is practically unmatched and his list of achievements is well known. So when the 69-year old alpine legend has something to say, you can bet that the mountaineering community will listen. Recently, Stefan Nestler caught up with Messner in Cologne, where he was able to ask him some interesting questions. The result was a brief, but quite revealing, interview on a host of subjects.

In the article Messner talks about the aftermath of the massacre in Nanga Parbat Base Camp this past summer and its impact for future expeditions to that mountain. He also touched on Nepal's plans to set up a government outpost in Everest BC to keep an eye on the teams there each spring. He even weighs in on Ueli Steck's recent solo summit of Annapurna, calling it "typically Ueli Steck."

While the interview isn't particularly long, there is a lot of information to be gleaned from it. Messner even addresses some questions regarding Ueli's lack of evidence for a successful summit on Annapurna. As you may recall, he dropped his camera on the way to the top and doesn't carry a GPS with him, so there is no real evidence to support his claims of a solo summit. But, considering this is Ueli Steck we're talking about, most everyone accepts that he managed to top out, including Messner. Apparently there are some rivals back in Switzerland that have been raising doubts about the climb. It should be noted that Ueli's teammates on Annapurna claimed that they could see his footsteps leading to the summit when they surveyed the mountain through a spotting scope in ABC.

Tip of the hat goes out to Stefan for this excellent interview that covers so much ground. Really interesting stuff out of Messner as usual.

Video: Ueli Steck Talks Annapurna With EpicTV (Part 2)

Recently our friends at EpicTV caught up with Ueli Steck and had a chance to sit down with him to talk about his amazing solo summit of Annapurna. Last week part 1 of the video interview was released and today we get part 2. This time out we get to hear Ueli, who is for my money the best alpinist in the world today, talk about how easy it is to solo big mountains. I imagine this is the same way that Michael Jordan thought it was easy to score points in a basketball game. It just comes so naturally to them that they don't even consider that us mere mortals have a hard time comprehending how they can accomplish the things they do.

Video: Ueli Steck Talks Annapurna With EpicTV

There is no question that Ueli Steck's solo ascent of Annapurna is the boldest climb of the year. News of his amazing feat has captivated the mountaineering community for the past few weeks as we've all waited to hear more about the expedition. Now that he is back home, Ueli sat down with the folks from EpicTV for an interview to discuss his latest adventure in the Himalaya. Part 1 of that interview can be found below, where you'll learn – amongst other things – that Steck feels a bit "empty" following his return from Annapurna.

Video: Ueli Steck On Annapurna

Hot off of his success on Annapurna comes this video that gives us a brief glimpse of Ueli Steck climbing that mountain. The video was put together by Don Bowie, Ueli's partner on this expedition, and considering the two men are still trekking back to Pokhara, I'm impressed with what we've got here. It shows us the line that Ueli took to the summit and gives us a sense of what conditions were there there as well. Amazing stuff. Hopefully we'll get a longer edit once the boys have returned home.

Ueli Steck - Annapurna South Face - Quick Edit from Nepal from Fenom Creative Group on Vimeo.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Details On Ueli Steck's Solo Summit Of Annapurna

Since we received news of Ueli Steck's solo summit of Annapurna late last week the mountaineering community has been abuzz with anticipation as we all have waited for more details of the climb. The 8091 meter (26,545 meter) peak is one of the toughest and deadliest mountains in the world and it seemed unfathomable that someone could climb it alone and in alpine style. But now, as Ueli and his partner Don Bowie make their way back to the village of Pokhara, the story of the climb is finally being told, and it is just as epic as we have all imagined.

Details of the climb have been posted on both Ueli's website and on ExWeb. It seems that Ueli, Don and a few companions who were along to photograph the expedition set out last Wednesday, October 9. The weather was reportedly decent although high winds made things difficult. When they reached the Bergschrund, Don decided that the face was too difficult and demanding to ascend without ropes, so it was at that point that Ueli moved on alone. He would go light and fast, as is his nature, the rest of the way to the top.

As he went up, Ueli indicated that the high winds were blowing snow much of the way, but his climb to 6600 meters (21,653 ft) was relatively easy. He had hoped to camp there for a time so he could rest, eat and escape the winds for a bit, but he couldn't find a place to make camp. Discouraged, he descended about 100 meters where he discovered a crevasse where he could put up his tent. It made the perfect shelter and he soon sat down to eat and drink as much as he could.

After the sun went down, the winds dropped off and the weather conditions improved greatly. Knowing that this was his chance, Ueli made a dash for the summit, moving quickly and easily up the face. At one point he stopped to take photographs of the headwall but ended up losing his camera and one of his down gloves. For the rest of the climb he would alternate his one remaining glove between his two hands in an effort to keep them both warm.

Things got harder as the Swiss climber neared the summit. The altitude made breathing more difficult and the final push along the summit ridge brought a lot of tension. Ueli says he just kept telling himself "Just fight, just fight," over and over in an effort to will himself up the hill. It worked and he arrived at the summit at night, with a relatively calm wind and a billion stars shining overhead.

But the summit was just the halfway point and he knew he had to get down safely as well. Steck spent less than five minutes on the summit and turned back towards Advanced Base Camp as quickly as he could. The descent went well however and he sent a message to Don once he was safely in Camp 2. Ueli would later descend to ABC with his friends coming up to greet him with food and water and assist him down.

All told, the round trip journey took just 28 hours to complete along one of the most difficult and demanding routes in the Himalaya. Ueli used the infamous Lafaille Route, which was first pioneered back in 1992 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin. Neither of those men were successful on that route and Beghin perished on the descend. Lafaille himself was thought dead too for a time but did manage to get himself off the mountain after suffering a four day ordeal on the descent.

It is difficult to convey just how impressive Ueli's climb truly is. Annapurna is an incredibly difficult and dangerous mountain and yet Ueli treated it like it was one of the Alps in his backyard. If there was any question that he is the best high altitude mountaineer in the world today, it was probably answered with this amazing 28-hour, solo and alpine style ascent.

Reading Ueli's account of the climb I was a bit concerned with the fact that he had lost his camera. Without summit photos the entire climb could be called into question and considering the magnitude of what was accomplished, rightly so. But Steck's three companions say that they were able to watch him go up through a 1000mm spotting scope and followed his every move. After he climbed to the summit in darkness, they team was able to spot tracks leading to the summit the following the morning. The account of the three witnesses should be enough to put to rest any dispute over whether or not he was successful in his summit bid. Elizabeth Hawley may have the final decision in that matter however and considering Ueli's sterling reputation, I suspect he'll be fine.

Congratulations to Ueli on another impressive performance in the mountains. What a stunning way to return to the Himalaya after the events that took place their in the spring. Hopefully we can put that situation behind us now, and Ueli will feel comfortable enough to continue climbing in the big mountains moving forward.

Himalaya Fall 2013: The End Is In Sight

The 2013 fall Himalayan climbing season is rapidly coming to a close now. Most of the teams have wrapped up their expeditions and are now on their way back to Kathmandu as deteriorating weather conditions have spread across the region and effectively shut down most of the summits. But a few high profile expeditions are still taking place even as the end of the season looms ever closer.

Just how bad are the conditions on the big mountains at the moment? From the sound of things, it has gotten incredibly bad at times. For instance, ExWeb is reporting that when Italian climber Danilo Callegari attempted a summit of Shishapangma last week and was turned back before he could reach the top. On the descent he managed to survive a fall into a crevasse and was nearly swept off the mountain not by one avalanche but three. On top of that, he had to survive for three very long days without food as well as he finally made his way back to Base Camp just happy to be alive.

Perhaps the most high profile expedition of them to take place this fall was Ueli Steck and Don Bowie's Annapurna attempt.  As we all know by now, Ueli made a solo summit of the mountain along the South Face late last week but aside from that few details are known. We should get more information soon however as the two men left Base Camp on Friday and started their trek back to Pokhara. It'll take a few days before they arrive there at which time we hope to know more about this amazing effort on the part of the "Swiss Machine." When the news of the climb broke last week I had thought the duo might stay on Annapurna and attempt another summit, after all their permit runs for another month. But it seems they were content with their efforts and are now more than ready to head home.


Over on Lhotse, the Italian and Korean teams are still holding tight and waiting for an opportunity to move up the mountain. Conditions above Camp 2 continue to be bad and the outlook is not good for either team to summit this season. With the weather taking a turn for the worse, there doesn't appear to be any windows to the summit coming anytime soon. But both squads continue to hold out hope even as the clock ticks. The Italian's in particular must feel the pressure as they have just two weeks left on their permit, which has already been extended once this year.

Finally, there has been no word from Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb yet from Base Camp on Lunag-Ri. We do know that they reached Namche Bazaar last week and were expected in BC yesterday. Hopefully they are setting up shop and getting settled into their campsite before they begin the climb itself. You may recall that their objective is to summit the highest unclimbed peak in Nepal, which stands at 6895 meters (22,621 ft). After acclimatizing on a trek for the past two weeks, I'm sure they are more than eager to take a crack at that mountain.

That's it for today. As I mentioned, things are starting to get very quiet now. Soon there will only be a couple of expeditions to cover as fall season nears the inevitable end.

Himalaya Fall 2013: News From Annapurna And Lunag-Ri, Summit Bids Over On Manaslu

We have more news from the Himalaya today as a couple of teams we've been waiting to hear from check in at last. But before we get to those high profile climbs there is also an update from Manaslu where it seems a busy and active season is about to come to an end.

Earlier in the week we knew that a several teams were attempting to summit Manaslu as a window of good weather was expected to appear over the past few days. It turns out the weather did not improve as forecasts indicated and as a result, the teams moving up the mountain had a much tougher time than expected. A dispatch from Adventure Peaks has all the details, but in a nutshell the climber were ascending in thigh-deep snow only to find that Camps 2 and 3 were completely destroyed by heavy snows and high winds. The effort they put in just to rebuild those camps was very taxing and at one point the Sherpas were forced to spend the night in a tent without sleeping bags because their bags had been buried under fresh powder.

Despite those challenges however the team still considered moving higher. But when they left C3 they discovered that the fixed ropes had been buried in snow and ice as well and were unusable. That was the final straw for the expedition with all climbers turning back and descending to Camp 2 safely. With conditions this bad so late in the season, it seems that the Adventure Peaks team will definitely head home and it is likely that others will too. It appears that the end of the season has arrived at last on Manaslu.

Elsewhere however the climbs continue. There have been no further updates from Annapurna, where yesterday we learned that Ueli Steck topped out solo on the mountain's South Face. That is an incredible climb and the entire mountaineering world is waiting to hear more details. At the moment, we believe that Ueli is back in Base Camp with his partner  Don Bowie, but what their next move is remains to be seen. Their permit runs through November 15, so it is possible they will attempt to go up again provided Don is feeling strong and ready to try to reach the top too. For now, we'll all have to wait for more information.
Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb have checked in from their Lunag-Ri expedition at last. Over the past two weeks they have been acclimatizing by trekking through the Rolwaling Valley and into the Khumbu. Along the way they took their time to let their bodies adjust to the altitude while David fought off an infection that was causing him to have a nasty toothache. They've now made their way into Namche Bazaar where they will spend a day or two resting before proceeding up to Lunag-Ri Base Camp. They expect to arrive there tomorrow where they'll begin their climb at last.

That's pretty much the news for today. There are still some major climbs taking place on Lhotse of course but there hasn't been any updates while the teams there wait for improved weather. Time is starting to run short for the Italian squad, whose permits has been extended to Oct. 27, but the Koreans are still getting themselves established. With any luck, we'll hear more on their progress soon too.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Ueli Steck Makes Solo Summit Of Annapurna!

We haven't had a lot of updates from Ueli Steck and Don Bowie on their current expedition to Annapurna in Nepal. But it appears that the Swiss Machine has found success during the fall season after missing out on the summit two previous attempts. Details remain light at the moment but it appears that Ueli made a solo summit of the South Face of the mountain yesterday in what sounds like a remarkable climb.

News of this successful summit comes our way courtesy of Planet Mountain. Apparently Steck sent a brief text message yesterday proclaiming his victory on Annapurna. That message simply said: "Summit, alone, South Face." Planet Mountain is also reporting that Ueli hs already back in Base Camp after what must have been an amazing effort.

We'll have to wait for the full story once Ueli and Don have a better Internet connection as I am sure there is much to tell. Climbing Annapurna is never an easy feat and it is widely considered to be one of the toughest mountains in the world to summit. It also has the highest death-to-summit rate of any of the 8000-meter peaks. A solo summit on this mountain is an impressive accomplishment for sure.

At some point I'll probably stop being so surprised and amazed at Steck's accomplishments, but I'm not really sure when that will happen. For my money, he is the best high-altitute alpinist in the world today and he continues to change our perceptions of what can be accomplished in the mountains. I'm so glad to see that he's back in the Himalaya and doing what he does best. Considering the events that took place this past spring on Everest, I wasn't sure if he'd ever go back to Nepal.

We'll have to wait to see if he and Don will attempt another summit together or if they'll now wrap up the expedition. Their climbing permit is good through November 15, so there is a chance that they'll stay on the mountain for more climbing. On the other hand, most mountaineers will tell you not to push your luck on Annapurna, so they may move on.

Congratulations to Ueli on a job well done!

Himalaya 2013: Carlos Soria Calls It Quits On Shishapangma

It was a relatively quiet weekend in the Himalaya where most of the major commercial expeditions are starting to wrap up operations. With numerous summits on Manaslu and Cho Oyu, as well as a sprinkling of successful climbs elsewhere, the fall season is rapidly coming to a close for most climbers. But there are still a couple of major expeditions to keep our eyes on as we move ahead thanks to the very high profile climbers who are still searching for their summits.

We'll start today on Shishapangma where 74-year old Carlos Soria has elected to call it quits for another season. You may recall that last week Carlos made a summit bid but was turned back at Camp 3 due to poor weather conditions. While much of the region has enjoyed stable weather all season long, Shishapangma hasn't been so lucky. To date there has been just one summit on the mountain this fall and it doesn't appear that it'll be getting any easier in the days ahead. With that in mind, Carlos pulled the plug and is on his way home, although he says that he is already looking ahead to the spring.

To get an idea of what it is like to climb Shisha, take a look at the video below. It shows Carlos and a couple of his companions trekking up from Camp 2 to Camp 3 on that mountain. You'll get more out of it if you understand Spanish but if you don't, the views are still pretty great.

Elsewhere, the major expeditions that are still ongoing that will receive the bulk of attention moving forward include the Italians, Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli, making an attempt to climb and ski down Lhotse. The last we heard from them they were back in Base Camp, fighting a bit of an illness and regaining their strength before attempting to go up to Camp 2 this week.

I'll also be keeping an eye on Ueli Steck and Don Bowie's attempt at a fall summit on Annapurna as well as Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb's expedition to summit Lunag Ri, the tallest unclimbed peak in Nepal. Neither of those two teams has shared many details from their respective mountains, but hopefully we'll get more dispatches from them soon. For now, we wait to hear about their progress.

Himalaya Fall 2013: More Summits On Manaslu and Cho Oyu

As predicted there has been another round of summits across the Himalaya this week as good weather allowed teams to move up in relatively stable conditions. So far the fall climbing season has gone pretty much by the book with few major issues or problems. There are still some major expeditions under way of course, but it seems that a number of the larger commercial operations are wrapping up their fall itineraries and starting to head home.

It has been a productive season on Manaslu where there have been two major summit pushes within the past week or so. More teams reached the top on that mountain yesterday with Chris Jensen Burke being amongst them. She sent an audio dispatch announcing the team's success and letting friends and family know that everyone had come back down the mountain safely. Her squad was just one of a number of groups to summit yesterday with more expected to top out today.

Over on Cho Oyu there has been a similar level of activity over the course of the season and the past few days. Several commercial squads topped out over the past few days including the IMG team as well as climbers from Amical Alpin and Adventure Peaks. The weather has remained stable on the mountain all through the season, which has helped facilitate safe climbing on the mountain. The most recent summiteers have already returned to Base Camp and are resting up before the trek home.

The weather hasn't remained quite so consistent on Shishapangma however and a number of teams have turned back on their summit bids there. Rich Emerson of the Ski Shisapangma squad turned back on his second summit attempt due to an excessive amount of soft snow around the summit. He was able to get within 450 meters (1476 ft) once again but conditions wouldn't allow him to go any higher. He is now back in BC and intends to wrap up the expedition tomorrow. Meanwhile, 74-year old Carlos Soria  climbed as high as C3 on his summit bid before the weather forced him to retreat as well. He has gone back down the mountain to BC to re-evaluate his choices. Fresh snow and high winds made for poor visibility high on the mountain, which brought an end to summit bids. At least for now.

On Lhotse, the Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli continue to have their struggles. The two men went back up to Camp 1 a few days ago and found it in disarray due to recent storms. They rebuilt their campsite and dug out their tent, which was buried in snow both inside and out. They then spent a terrible night there in which Ed was sick once again and Federico's sleeping bag had a broken zipper, which made for a long, cold evening in the tent. They had intended to go up to Camp 2, but with their situation being less than ideal, they moved back down to BC instead. They hope to fix the sleeping bag and we're told that Ed's illness has more to do with food poisoning than altitude, so they'll push back up the mountain in another day or two. Meanwhile, the Korean team that has joined them in BC has built a path through the Khumbu Icefall and is preparing for their first acclimatization rotation soon as well.

Finally, there continues to be no updates from Ueli Steck and Don Bowie on their attempt to climb Annapurna. They checked in a few days back saying they had gone up the mountain to as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) but were back in BC at the time. For now, we wait to hear about their plans. Similarly, Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb have yet to check in from Lunag Ri. Presumably they are still en route to the mountain and will begin sharing dispatches once they get settled. At 6895 meters (22,621 ft), that peak is the tallest unclimbed mountain in all of Nepal. It should be interesting to follow both of these expeditions moving forward.

That's all for now. More news from the Himalaya when there is something to share.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Second Round of Summit Bids Underway

After successful summits across the Himalaya last week a brief period of bad weather fell across much of the region. But this week things are clearing up and a new weather window is seems to be opening. These improved conditions are allowing a second round of summit pushes as climbers on various mountains make their move to top out. Over the next few days we should see more summits as the fall climbing season begins to heat up once again.

One of the most active mountains during last week's round of summit bids was Manaslu, where it is estimated that approximately 60 climbers topped out. Amongst them was Alan Arnette who posted a brief account of his summit bid on his blog. Alan calls the summit of Manaslu the scariest spot he has ever been in his climbing career, which includes Everest, thanks in no small part to its narrow approach ridge which had a drop of over 3000 feet (914 meters) on either side. As always, Alan provides good insights into climbing on the big peaks, but this dispatch was a bit short due to technical issues. He promises a longer account of the climb once he has returned home.

The work isn't wrapped up on Manaslu just yet however as more teams are making their summit bids this week. A number of international climbers, including teams from Romania, Spain and Italy, amongst others, are headed to Camp 3 today and should be looking to top out on Thursday of this week provided the weather remains cooperative. As the 8th highest peak in the world, Manaslu provides plenty of opportunities for sharpening mountaineering skills for preparation for a higher peak, such as Everest, in the spring.


On Cho Oyu more teams have begun their push as well. The Amical Alpin squad has moved up to Camp 3 where they are joined by a group led by Adventure Peaks. If all goes according to plan, both teams should make their final summit bids tomorrow.

Similarly a second round of summit attempts are underway on Shishapangma as well. 74-year old Carlos Soria is in Camp 3 today and should make his push to the top tomorrow or the next day. Rich Emerson of the Ski Shishapangma expedition has launched his second summit bid on the mountain as well and hopes to top out tomorrow or Thursday. If conditions are right he'll also make a ski descent too.

Over on Lhotse things are starting to develop. The Korean team that joined Italians Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli on that mountain have begun building a makeshift route through the Khumbu Icefall, which should makes things easier and safer on that section of the climb. That team has also established Camp 1 and has spent some time their acclimatizing. For their part, the Italians have returned from Gorak Shep and are back up the mountain as well. They should be in Camp 2 today as they work towards getting their bodies ready for their own summit push to come. If they are successful, they also hope to ski back down the mountain.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie have checked in from Annapurna. In a very brief message Ueli says that he went as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) last Friday but weather conditions shifted and heavy snow began to fall. As of this dispatch he and Don were back in ABC and waiting for conditions to approve. Hopefully we'll get more news soon.

That's all for today. Hopefully we'll have more news on summits tomorrow.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summits On Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma!

It was a very productive day in the Himalaya yesterday as the projected weather window remained open long enough for teams to top out on several mountains. That window is expected to slam shut today with high winds and snowstorms expected across the region. But the climbers who arrived early in the season, worked hard to complete the acclimatization process and patiently waited for their opportunity were rewarded with successful summit bids. 

We'll start on Manaslu where the majority of the action took place yesterday. The Altitude Junkies confirmed that their team started to top out at about 8:30 AM local time yesterday morning. First to the top were Pasang Nima Sherpa and team leader Phil Crampton, but not far behind was the rest of the crew that included Alan Arnette, whom I'm sure will pass along a detailed account of the summit push in the next day or two As they approached the top, the final 100 meters of rope still needed to be fixed and Pasang Nima joined with the Sherpas from the Himex squad to complete that work. Russell Brice's team had a good day on the mountain too, putting 13 of their clients on top and a total of 29 climbers overall. Reportedly it was a good day on the summit with warm temperatures and calm winds. Both teams report that everyone has now descended safely and after spending the night in Camp 1 they should arrive back in BC today. 

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that there have been summits on Cho Oyu as well. Four climbers topped out there at around 12:40 PM yesterday afternoon. That group included American climber Adrian Ballinger, Russian Sergey Baranov, Passang Bhote Sherpa and Namygal Sherpa. The two westerners than proceeded to make a ski descent and were back in Camp 2 early in the afternoon. ExWeb also indicates that there are a number of other teams poised to make summit bids today before the change in weather arrives. 

Apparently there has also been a successful summit on Shishapangma as well. Details are still a bit light but it is being reported that Hungarian climber Lestak Erzsebet reached the summit of that mountain yesterday and then safely returned to ABC. If we get more details on the climb I'll be sure to share them.

While we're on the subject of Shishapangma, 74-year old Carlos Soria is still in Base Camp there and keeping a close eye on the weather. The hope is that once the current weather system passes a new window will open giving the teams enough time to make their push. That could come as early as next week, but for now everyone sits and waits. 

Finally, there hasn't been any updates from Ueli Steck or Don Bowie in about a week but presumably they have reached Annupurna Base Camp now and are setting up shop for the climb ahead. These two talented and very experienced mountaineers will likely go to work very quickly and I wouldn't be surprised to hear them start their acclimatization rotations immediately, weather permitting. Hopefully once they are settled in we'll start to get regular updates on their progress. 

I want to offer a big congratulations to all the climbers who were able to summit over the past couple of days. Job well done all around and I'm glad to hear that it seems everyone got up and down safely. 

More updates to come in the days ahead. Things will likely quiet down now for a few days while the weather moves in and out of the Himalaya. After that, there will be a host of climbers ready to make their move. 

Himalaya Fall 2013: Weather Window Opens Across The Himalaya, Summits In Sight

As noted yesterday, the first real summit push of the fall Himalayan climbing season is now underway and we wait anxiously for word on the whereabouts of the numerous teams that are currently on the move. The weather forecast across the region seems favorable, at least for a few more days, and the climbers are now getting themselves into position to make a push to the top of their respective mountains within the next day or two. After that, it seems the window will close once again and those who aren't able to take advantage of it will wait for their turn in the days ahead. For now though, there is quite a bit of activity taking place.

Yesterday I noted that Rich Emerson and Dave Etherington of the Ski Shishapangma expedition were planning on making their summit bid. The weather was reportedly quite good and it was thought that they would go to the top, then attempt a ski descent. There has been no update on their progress since then however so it is unclear weather or not they did indeed summit and ski or if they ended up descending for some reason. We'll have to wait and watch their Facebook page for updates on their progress.

On Manaslu the summit push is in full swing with most expecting to top out tomorrow. As reported yesterday, the Altitude Junkies squad is amongst them with Alan Arnette part of that team. It seems that the Himex climbers have also joined the summit party and their team is on the way up as well. The forecast says that there should be little wind on Manaslu tomorrow, which should give the teams perfect conditions to top out. After that, rain and snow are expected on the mountain with the potential for some heavy powder to fall at higher altitudes. At the moment, as many as 60 climbers are in Camp 4 and waiting to launch their final push.


According to ExWeb, the summit bids have begun on Cho Oyu as well with the first climbers possibly topping out as early as tomorrow as well. The forecast there is the same as elsewhere: good conditions through Wednesday with heavy snow moving in afterwards. Considering that no one has been above Camp 2 yet on the mountain, it is unclear what conditions will be like on the way to the summit, but after tomorrow they are expected to get a whole lot more challenging. Amongst those hoping to top out are American mountain guide Adrian Ballinger and Russian climber Sergei Baranov.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli are back in Base Camp on Lhotse where they have enjoyed a warm shower and some much needed rest. They intend to descend to Gorak Shep for a bit of a break and to get an Internet connection to post some more detailed updates. The boys are no longer alone in BC however as a Korean team has arrived in the past day or two and has begun to set up shop. It is unclear at this point whether or not the Koreans will be attempting Lhotse as well or if they are there to make a rare attempt on Everest in the fall. We'll just have to wait to see what exactly their objectives are.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie should now be settled into Base Camp on Annapurna and will most likely be scouting the route that they'll take to the summit. There have been no updates yet from the dynamic duo but it is their hope that they'll be able to find success on one of the world's toughest mountains where both have had their struggles in the past. Even if they don't manage to climb Annapurna this fall however, it is good to see Ueli back in the Himalaya following the unfortunate events of this past spring.

That's all for now. Hopefully my next update will contain good news of successful summits.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summit Bids Underway!

It was a busy weekend in the Himalaya where most of the teams continued their acclimatization rotations in an effort to prepare for the challenges ahead. While those squads dutifully marched up and down the mountain in an effort to get their bodies accustomed to the thinner air, other teams launched their summit bids at long last. If the weather stays calm and things go according to plan, we could see our first successful summits of the season later today.

One of the teams that is now in position to top out is the Ski Shishapangma squad. They started their summit push last Friday and should top out today, hopefully putting both Dave Etherington and Rich Emerson on the summit. The weather report indicates clear skies and tranquil conditions on the mountain, so provided any unforeseen changes, it seems summit day will be a good one. As the name of the expedition implies however, climbing the mountain is only part of the plan. Dave and Rich also intend to ski back down Shisha, which is the shortest of the 8000-meter peaks at 8013 meters (26,289 ft). Good luck to the team as they make this final push and ski descent.

Also on Shishapangma, 74-year old Carlos Soria is biding his time and waiting for his opportunity to summit. With his acclimatization rotations done, he is now resting in Base Camp, watching the weather and waiting for the right time to move. He is estimating that he'll get on the move around the middle of the week with a possible summit on Sept. 28, which would be Saturday. A savvy veteran of the Himalaya, Soria also says that his team is patient and they will wait for the right opportunity to being their bid for the summit.

The Altitude Junkies have also launched their summit bid on Manaslu setting out on Saturday for their final push. The team, which includes our friend Alan Arnette, spent the night in Camp 2 last night and will proceed to Camp 3 today. Tomorrow they'll move up to C4 and be in position for a potential summit bid on Wednesday of this week. The weather window looks promising at the moment and it seems that the route to the top is in good shape. Over the weekend the Sherpas had to replace three ladders that went missing in avalanche, but all is good now. Hopefully we'll hear news of their success in the middle of the week.


On Cho Oyu the IMG team has moved up to Camp 2 where they spent the night last night as part of their normal acclimatization process. The climbers have now been in Tibet for three weeks and their bodies should begin responding positively to the higher altitudes. The weather is reported good on the mountain and everyone is expected to descend back to Base Camp today for a couple days rest before proceeding back up.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli had a tough climb up to Camp 1 on Lhotse over the weekend. As much as 40 cm (15.8 inches) of fresh snow had fallen and it made what should typically be a relatively easy climb into a very tough slog. As they moved higher, the snow started falling again and soon the found themselves in a blizzard that ended up dropping as much as 70-80 cm (27-31 inches) of new powder. With conditions deteriorating rapidly, they were forced to continue up to C1 rather than turn back. They spent an cold, wet and generally uncomfortable night at that spot, waking up the next day to find that the skies had cleared and conditions had improved dramatically. This gave them the opportunity to return to BC for some much needed rest. While on the hike up to Camp 1, Edmond displayed some signs of altitude sickness which could be troubling. Hopefully the rest in Base Camp will help alleviate the issue and he can continue with the expedition as planned.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie were expected to reach Annapurna Base Camp yesterday, which means they have probably already gone to work today. The duo planned on scouting various routes to the top once they arrived in BC. It is there belief that Annapurna, which is amongst the most dangerous mountains in the world, will be more stable in the fall with colder conditions and less snow. Both men have tried this mountain in the past and the summit has eluded them thus far. Hopefully this season will be a little different.

Stay tuned for more updates as they come in.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Big Changes On Manaslu, Avalanche On Cho Oyu

The climbers in the Himalaya this fall have really started to pick up momentum and this week has certainly been a busy one. Most have started their first acclimatization rounds and things seem to be proceeding according to plan. But this being the Himalaya, things are not always as they seem and there have certainly been some difficult struggles even in the early going.

We'll start on Manaslu where Alan Arnette has weighed in following his first acclimatization rotation up to Camp 2. Alan says that the mountain is very different this year and that the lack of snowfall is having a dramatic effect on the route. He reports that there are numerous crevasses to negotiate and that the movement of the shifting glacier has forced the Sherpas to find new ways to navigate up the mountain. Apparently even the Sherpas who have been climbing on Manaslu for many years are surprised at how it looks this season. The ascent from Base Camp to C1 and 2 has always been on the technical side, but this year it is even more challenging. As always, Alan's dispatches from his expeditions are insightful, well written and share a wealth of information. You can read his latest in its entirety by clicking here.

Not far from where Alan is camped in Manaslu BC, the Himex team has also set up shop for the season. Their Sherpa teams have just returned from carrying gear up to Camps 1 and 2 and will now take a day or two off before they proceed higher. The climbing team will sit for another day as well and then head up for their first acclimatization rotation this weekend. Most will spend the night at C2 as they begin to get their bodies accustomed to the altitude. The team reports that the weather is starting to take a turn however with more freezing rain in the forecast. They'll keep an eye on the sky of course, but for now it just seems to be conditions uncomfortable rather than putting anyone in real danger.
Over on Cho Oyu the climbers are going through their early rotations as well with a number of teams just returning to BC after their first trip up the mountain. The IMG squad is reportedly gearing up for their climb to Camp 2, which may take place as early as this weekend. There was a scary moment on the mountain a couple of days ago when an avalanche hit four Sherpas that were busy fixing ropes up to C2. One of those climbers was seriously injured and had to be evacuated but thankfully no one was killed during the incident. A day later the rope fixing to C2 was complete and the teams now seem confident enough in the conditions to proceed up.

The Italian team of Edmond Joyeusaz and Federico Colli are making some slow progress on Lhotse. The duo are back in Base Camp today and were planning on descending down the Khumbu Valley for a little rest in Gorak Shep. They have just made their first foray up to Camp 1, which involved a tricky climb through the Khumub Icefall, which is made all the more difficult this time of year since the famed Ice Doctors aren't there to maintain the route. Apparently the two support Sherpas who are accompanying them on this trip are not very experienced at passing through the Icefall without the aid of ladders and ropes. The two Sherpas, both of whom have Everest summits on their resumes, expressed concerns about the dangers of that section of the mountain. As a result, the Italians have requested two other porters with more experience to come join them. While they are climbing in mostly independently, they are using Sherpa support to shuttle gear up to Camp 1 and 2. It'll take a few days before their new support team will arrive in BC, so for now they'll rest and prepare for the challenges ahead. The plan is to summit and ski the mountain, which makes this one of the most ambitious expeditions taking place this fall.

The team of Rich Emerson, Dave Etherington and Steve Wilson are also hoping to make a ski descent of Shishapangma this fall. They've already completed their final acclimatization rotation and launched their summit bid yesterday with Rich and Dave expected to reach Camp 1 today and then proceed to C2 tomorrow. If all goes as expected, they could be on top early next week and skiing back down shortly there after. It has begun to snow on the mountain, which may be good for the descent, but we'll have to wait to see if the weather impacts their final push to the summit.

Meanwhile, 74-year old Carlos Soria has arrived in Base Camp on Shishapangma and will spend the next few days resting before he starts his acclimatization. Carlos is an amazing man as he continues to take on big Himalayan peaks well into his 70's and never seems to take much of a break. He is a staple in the mountains and seems to be constantly on an expedition of some kind or another. I hope that when I reach his age I'm still as active and strong.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie are already in and out of Kathmandu. The duo flew to Pokhara yesterday and began the trek to Annapurna Base Camp today. They should arrive on the mountain early next week and start their climb then.

More updates soon.